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Post by christopher on Nov 7, 2024 19:42:43 GMT -5
I'm racking my brain on this, but I have two 4-conductor humbuckers wired into my Mustang with a 3-way toggle. Currently the two slider switches aren't doing anything. Is it possible to wire each slider split/series/OOP.
I can't see any way to do it, but I feel there is a way. Those weird switches confuse me.
If you consider the poles to be:
1 5
2 6
3 7
4 8
I don't know how to post a picture, but I'm thinking pickup hot goes to 2, pickup ground goes to 6, 2 goes to 8, 6 goes to 4, 3 and 8 go to pickup selector, 4 and 7 go to ground. Split wire goes to 5.
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Post by reTrEaD on Nov 8, 2024 16:24:47 GMT -5
Hello christopher . Welcome to GN2. I don't know how to post a picture I see you're posting from a mobile device. Unfortunately, the mobile version of ProBoards is very limited. The only way to post an image in mobile mode would be to upload your drawing to an image host, then grab the address where that image resides, then use that address in your post with img tags. If you post in desktop mode, there are a couple of plugins that provide buttons that allow you to upload to an image host during the posting process, and it will apply the link from the image host into your post. You'll see a "Postimage Upload" button on the posting page and it's pretty much self-explanatory. If you prefer a more feature-packed host (but more difficult to learn), read about it in this thread: Cloudinary File Upload - a superior image image hostI'm thinking pickup hot goes to 2, pickup ground goes to 6, 2 goes to 8, 6 goes to 4, 3 and 8 go to pickup selector, 4 and 7 go to ground. Split wire goes to 5. I see a problem right off the bat. If lug 7 is ground and lug 8 goes to the pickup selector, you'll kill all sound when the slide is in the bottom most position. Those weird switches confuse me. Yeah, it requires a different style of thinking. In each of the three positions, two adjacent lugs are connected together on each side of the switch. I have a thread that might interest you: The Three-position Slide Switch (Fender Mustang) It describes several interesting functions this switch is capable of but it's just a tiny subset of what would be possible. To help you visualize how the switch functions, this drawing would be a great place to start:  The switch is shown with the slide in the center position. On each side, the internal contacts bridge between the second lug from the top and the third lug from the top. If the slide is moved to the top, the top lug and the second lug from the top are connected together. Does this help? Is it possible to wire each slider split/series/OOP. Yes. But before we get started, we should discuss some details. - What brand and model pickups are you using? If we know that, we can create a drawing with the appropriate color codes.
- Which coil from each pickup should be active, when split? If we use a north coil from one pickup and south coil from the other pickup, we can have hum-canceling when both split pickups are combined together. Personally, I'd suggest using the North (slug) coil of the Bridge pickup if it's oriented with the screw coil closest to the bridge. The coil further from the bridge will sound less brittle. If that's the choice, using the South (screw) coil of the Neck pickup will allow the pair of split pickups to hum-cancel when both are in-phase.
- Are you sure you want both switches to do Split/Series/Oop ? If so, having both switches in the OoP position will sound the same as when both switches are in the Series position. Another option that might interest you, is to have the Neck switch do Split/Series/Parallel. It's up to you, of course.
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Post by christopher on Nov 8, 2024 18:38:16 GMT -5
So I'm starting to uncover another issue. I'm using a Lace Sensor Alumitone Deathbucker in the bridge and a Sabertooth in the neck. The DB doesn't split in the traditional sense, I'm not sure on the ST. Instead of grounding out one coil, it's something different. You have to ground one wire and lift another to get "single coil" operation from it.
The advantage of having each pickup having its own reverse phase setting is it let's me it lets me have both the neck split OOP with bridge full as well as bridge split OOP with neck full. If only one switch had an OOP setting it wouldn't let me do that.
Might it be less convoluted to simply ditch the 3 way toggle and give each pickup a split/off/full blade switch? It's not as convenient as a toggle switch but it would give this guitar a way to stand out and you wouldn't need a spec sheet to figure out how it operates.
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Post by reTrEaD on Nov 8, 2024 22:42:01 GMT -5
Might it be less convoluted to simply ditch the 3 way toggle and give each pickup a split/off/full blade switch? It's not as convenient as a toggle switch but it would give this guitar a way to stand out and you wouldn't need a spec sheet to figure out how it operates. It's an option but personally, I rather dislike having a dead position combination of pickup selection switches. But if you decide to go that way, I or one of the other nuts can help you figure it out. The advantage of having each pickup having its own reverse phase setting is it let's me it lets me have both the neck split OOP with bridge full as well as bridge split OOP with neck full. If only one switch had an OOP setting it wouldn't let me do that. oic. Then perhaps the original plan is a better choice for you. I'm using a Lace Sensor Alumitone Deathbucker in the bridge and a Sabertooth in the neck. The DB doesn't split in the traditional sense, I'm not sure on the ST. Instead of grounding out one coil, it's something different. You have to ground one wire and lift another to get "single coil" operation from it. Given the choice between shunting one coil or moving the ground from the end of the series string to the series-link, I'll always choose the latter. Here's a drawing for Alumitone wiring: Green connects to the case. Orange connects to the (+) of coil A. (I don't know whether that's a North coil or a South coil). White connects to the Series-link where coil A(-) and coil B(+) are joined together internally. White/Black connects the (-) of the coil B. IF the Sabertooth has all those wires, plus Orange/Black, the connections are likely to be as follows, Green connects to the case. Orange connects to the (+) of coil A. (I don't know whether that's a North coil or a South coil). Orange/Black connects to the (-) of coil A. White connects to the (+) coil B. White/Black connects the (-) of the coil B. |
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Post by Yogi B on Nov 9, 2024 6:25:41 GMT -5
I'm using a Lace Sensor Alumitone Deathbucker in the bridge and a Sabertooth in the neck. The DB doesn't split in the traditional sense, I'm not sure on the ST. Instead of grounding out one coil, it's something different. You have to ground one wire and lift another to get "single coil" operation from it. Given the choice between shunting one coil or moving the ground from the end of the series string to the series-link, I'll always choose the latter. Remember that with Alumitones the coils to which you're connecting are the secondaries of a transformer — that which takes the low-voltage/high-current signal from the parallel connected single loop pickup coils and transforms it into something closer to typical pickups. These secondary coils are far more tightly coupled than a typical humbucker — so allowing eddy currents to flow through a 'disabled' coil (by means of shorting it) would have a disastrous effect on tone. Hence their unusual (amongst pickup manufacturers) choice to avoid shunting the unused coil in their wiring diagrams. Lace states that Alumitones are "dead quiet" when split, even though you are presumably choosing just one of the two secondary coils (see photos & patent drawings in this thread). I therefore assume this quietness is due to better shielding around the secondaries rather than any humbucking action between them. (The primaries are always connected in a humbucking parallel configuration.) |
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Post by christopher on Nov 10, 2024 14:38:48 GMT -5
Hold up gang, I think I got an idea, but it might be a bit convoluted. You would have a 3 way toggle to select the pickups. For neck pickup: 1- split with dark cap 2- series 3- split For bridge pickup: 1- split with arlo cocked wah 2- series 3- split I don't know how much use the 1st positions would get, but I've been realizing a dead position isn't worth it, and I don't like the phasing idea either. Imma draft something up Edit: Does this look good? Is it possible to make the series position in the middle with the split positions on the 1 and 3 positions? Forgive the slightly schizophrenic looking drawing, I did this on my phone on the bus. ![]()  |
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Post by christopher on Nov 10, 2024 18:13:59 GMT -5
After further thought, is there any way I could fit a 2-way switch in there?
That might be better
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Post by reTrEaD on Nov 10, 2024 22:48:55 GMT -5
After further thought, is there any way I could fit a 2-way switch in there? That might be better Probably not. The slot for a Mustang switch is longer than a 2-way switch. Not necessarily a problem, but the hole spacing for the screws will be a big problem. Edit: Does this look good? Is it possible to make the series position in the middle with the split positions on the 1 and 3 positions? Forgive the slightly schizophrenic looking drawing, I did this on my phone on the bus. ![]() Someone else might see a way to do that, but I don't. I reckon if you need two split positions, they'll need to be right next to each other. Either top and center OR center and bottom For top and center, using the numbering system you had in the first post, the connections would be ... 1 - Ground and Jumper 2 - White 3 - Jumper 4 - White/Black For center and bottom, using the numbering system you had in the first post, the connections would be ... 1 - White/Black 2 - Jumper 3 - White 4 - Ground and Jumper |
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Post by christopher on Nov 11, 2024 8:19:20 GMT -5
Thank you for the advice. I'll try see if I can make a 2 way switch work. The biggest weakness there is hopefully that the switches would need something to stop them from wobbling because they'd only be mounted on one side. Hopefully theirs room to engage both positions.
I'll keep thinking about a way to move the series sound in the center position, but it's looking, like you said, the split positions would have to be next to eachother
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Post by christopher on Nov 11, 2024 14:22:14 GMT -5
 Would this work? The left side of the switch would be an on-off-on configuration for the split wire, and the right side would be an off-on-off configuration for the full strength wire. Because you have two outputs for the split side, you can then send one to the switch and one to the RC network then switch. |
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