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Post by studiostriver on Apr 9, 2013 4:52:13 GMT -5
Hi guys.This is my first post.To say this at start,I do not have any wiring skill.I planning to pay guitar luthier to do the job for me,but I was hoping you can help creating diagram...  I do not know if it is possible,so I need your expert opinion(s) is it possible make such a thing?  I have Schecter Hellraiser 7FR.I planning to switch to Bare Knuckles. Ok lets start.  2 Volumes,1 tone,3-way switch,2 humbuckers ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -On a 1st volume push/pull (hum/single coil,both pickups) -Freeway switch (6) Brigde(parallel serial)/Neck(parallel serial)/Bridge+Neck (parallel serial) - Mini phase switch for Neck ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Now thing getting complicated,I will need here your advices/opinions on this especially.All are welcome.  On 2nd volume I thought puting SD Blackouts™ Modular Preamp BMP-1s,and additional mini switch that will change signal from Volume 1 to 2. So two volumes will play role passive/active route,and that way i can easilly with one switch change signal direction. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Please tell me if this is possible to achieve,and if it is can someone here help me making wiring diagram,please? Thanks in advance. Studiostriver.  |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2013 5:49:10 GMT -5
DOBRODOSLI u nasu forumu! (sorry for the grammar mistake!!) So your guitar has got Pickups: EMG Active 707-TW by the factory ? And want more output ? EMGs are pretty silent and you can boost them all the way you want without noise being an issue. Or if you want you can try EMG's boost boards like AB2 their site is dead at the moment, actually they have two such products which you would use. Why go to bareknuckles + SD preamp, when all you need to spend is just 30-40 euros on an EMG compatible plug and play tested circuit? Just thinking.... but maybe i missed the coil split factor .... in which case what you say could make sense. ... But maybe you are asking way too much from an H-H guitar. OTOH your guitar is a fine expensive guitar. Maybe i would not want to mod it if i was in your shoes. Pozdrav iz Grcke |
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Post by newey on Apr 9, 2013 6:10:48 GMT -5
studiostriver- Hello and Welcome to G-Nutz2!I think most, but not all, of what you want can be done. The main problem that I see is what you want the "Freeway switch" to do. The "Freeway switch" has 6 positions, but that doesn't mean you can have anything you want in those 6 positions. The switch was designed for a HHH LP set-up, so that one has the standard LP N + Br switching on one side, then flipping to the other side adds in the middle pickup. Stew-Mac also has diagrams on their site to use it for coil-splitting and for adding a piezo. But I haven't seen one used for series/parallel switching of even one pickup, much less two separate pickups. To switch one humbucker from series to parallel wiring requires 2 poles of a switch; to do 2 HBs would mean another 2 poles, and then to combine the two requires yet another pole. The Freeway switch is short several poles from what would be needed. So, for starters, you're going to have to rethink what you want this switch to do. As for the rest of your "wish list": No problems there. That can also be easily done, but as above, you may want to look at using the the Freeway Switch for coil splitting the HBs. That's something it can do. As for the series/parallel switching, one P/P could do one HB in series/parallel; you'd need to add a second P/P for series/parallel on the other pickup. No problem, this will be a separate module that can be added in however the rest of the design turns out. No, things were already complicated . . . This sounds possible. You could use a push/pull to do this and avoid another hole for an extra switch. We'll be happy to help with a diagram once you finalize how you want this. You should also carefully check for how all these components are going to fit inside your guitar. The Freeway switch in particular is a large item. |
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Post by studiostriver on Apr 9, 2013 6:21:19 GMT -5
DOBRODOSLI u nasu forumu! (sorry for the grammar mistake!!) So your guitar has got Pickups: EMG Active 707-TW by the factory ? And want more output ? EMGs are pretty silent and you can boost them all the way you want without noise being an issue. Or if you want you can try EMG's boost boards like AB2 their site is dead at the moment, actually they have two such products which you would use. Why go to bareknuckles + SD preamp, when all you need to spend is just 30-40 euros on an EMG compatible plug and play tested circuit? Just thinking.... Pozdrav iz Grcke Hvala ti mnogo brate! Thanks a lot bro! Well,its not in more uotput at all...You can put trings and EMG`s on wooden fence and they will again sound like EMG`s.I like that Metallica jam/jam sound form them but need more different character/expressiveness and dinamic witch only passive could get. I am 100% sure I will buy Naibomb for bridge,and Cold Sweat for neck (both alnico)..Immidetly fell in love on first hearing.,hehe..And they totally fits to my music... But as you saw in my post I want ad serial/parallel switches,and neck phase in/out...so I need a lot of more than that... And second volume SD Blackout preamp is thought that hunting me for a while... Passing between passive and active sound would be tromednous thing for me...It would fulfill all my studio recording needs... Cheers to all guitar nutsers!  |
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Post by studiostriver on Apr 9, 2013 6:48:18 GMT -5
studiostriver- Hello and Welcome to G-Nutz2!I think most, but not all, of what you want can be done. The main problem that I see is what you want the "Freeway switch" to do. The "Freeway switch" has 6 positions, but that doesn't mean you can have anything you want in those 6 positions. The switch was designed for a HHH LP set-up, so that one has the standard LP N + Br switching on one side, then flipping to the other side adds in the middle pickup. Stew-Mac also has diagrams on their site to use it for coil-splitting and for adding a piezo. But I haven't seen one used for series/parallel switching of even one pickup, much less two separate pickups. To switch one humbucker from series to parallel wiring requires 2 poles of a switch; to do 2 HBs would mean another 2 poles, and then to combine the two requires yet another pole. The Freeway switch is short several poles from what would be needed. So, for starters, you're going to have to rethink what you want this switch to do. As for the rest of your "wish list": No problems there. That can also be easily done, but as above, you may want to look at using the the Freeway Switch for coil splitting the HBs. That's something it can do. As for the series/parallel switching, one P/P could do one HB in series/parallel; you'd need to add a second P/P for series/parallel on the other pickup. No problem, this will be a separate module that can be added in however the rest of the design turns out. No, things were already complicated . . . This sounds possible. You could use a push/pull to do this and avoid another hole for an extra switch. We'll be happy to help with a diagram once you finalize how you want this. You should also carefully check for how all these components are going to fit inside your guitar. The Freeway switch in particular is a large item. I must say I starting to get excited when you saying it`s possible to achieve this...I hope we`ll found the way. Well if it can`t be done with freeway switch I will do all what it takes to make this configuration working...The only thing is number of switches..If it is possible to make it with fewer switches it`s better!That is the only suggestion to your suggestions. ;D Only thing I do not know does the Blackout preamp modular have splitable volume option,as I know they can work well with with split coil/seral/parallel..At least thay say it working good on presentation video. www.seymourduncan.com/blackouts/Cheers. |
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Post by JohnH on Apr 9, 2013 8:26:42 GMT -5
Just thinking, other than the 3way, there are three other switches proposed, being the freeway, the series/single and the phase.
Another practical set of three that would work would be an on on on mini toggle for each pup, to do series, single, parallel, and a phase switch on push/pull or as a mini toggle. This would give the same range of options.
J
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2013 9:45:40 GMT -5
Only thing I do not know does the Blackout preamp modular have splitable volume option,as I know they can work well with with split coil/seral/parallel..At least thay say it working good on presentation video. www.seymourduncan.com/blackouts/I am not sure what exactly you imply by "splitable volume ", maybe i am missing smth. Anyway judging form the diagram www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=BMP_2H_1V_1T_3Wthere is a separate input for every each of the 5 wires (2 coils + 1 ground), but there is no mention of any possible combinations so its hard to tell. Maybe a post over the seymour duncan forum would solve your questions. But it seems that there is no "logic" inside the device regarding any kind of splitting. The separate pins maybe just a convenient way for solder-less tape-less connection. (they seem to advertise this a lot, like its a holy grail or smth). Anyway, as a side note i am planning of putting a set of blackout singles in my home-brewed strat |
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Post by studiostriver on Apr 9, 2013 11:02:54 GMT -5
Just thinking, other than the 3way, there are three other switches proposed, being the freeway, the series/single and the phase. Another practical set of three that would work would be an on on on mini toggle for each pup, to do series, single, parallel, and a phase switch on push/pull or as a mini toggle. This would give the same range of options. J I`m free of do anything combination that will give same range of options.Just I need to find the way if it is possible with less switches to do the same job...And if it takes too much switches to get job done...I can lets say live without serial and leave only coil split/hum options and of course neck phase in out... Only thing I do not know does the Blackout preamp modular have splitable volume option,as I know they can work well with with split coil/seral/parallel..At least thay say it working good on presentation video. www.seymourduncan.com/blackouts/I am not sure what exactly you imply by "splitable volume ", maybe i am missing smth. Anyway judging form the diagram www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=BMP_2H_1V_1T_3Wthere is a separate input for every each of the 5 wires (2 coils + 1 ground), but there is no mention of any possible combinations so its hard to tell. Maybe a post over the seymour duncan forum would solve your questions. But it seems that there is no "logic" inside the device regarding any kind of splitting. The separate pins maybe just a convenient way for solder-less tape-less connection. (they seem to advertise this a lot, like its a holy grail or smth). Anyway, as a side note i am planning of putting a set of blackout singles in my home-brewed strat Sorry,I meant Volume push/pull option for Blackouts preamp...I sometimes writting English and thinking on my languagge that results with these hieroglifs.. They say on video,that if you have split coil option that it will work well...hm...I saw some youtube clips also where some guy say he install this preamp and using coil splitting also... So I guess it can be done unless they all lying... |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2013 12:16:19 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2013 12:27:10 GMT -5
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Post by studiostriver on Apr 9, 2013 17:20:10 GMT -5
Ok,thank you bro very much for clarifications. So I will need switch which will change signal from volume 1 to volume 2 which I first intended... Hm... In this scenario I`ll need 4/5 switches which is too much... If there is no solution in this case I would have given up from serial option if it will reduce number of switches.Hm.. Please guys give me some suggestions. |
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Post by newey on Apr 9, 2013 19:55:58 GMT -5
ss-
I think JohnH has the right idea if you're not married to the freeway switch. They are pricey, and they take up a lot of room, so if you can get the same sounds without it (which you can), I think that would be the way to move forward.
What you would have would be 2 DPDT On-On-On switches, one for each pickup. These switches select: Series HB / Coil Split / Parallel HB
A third switch, which can be a Push/Pull pot, selects the neck pickup in/out of phase.
A second P/P pot would then switch from passive to active output, selecting between the regular volume control and the preamp, which has its own volume control aboard it.
So, I think you could do everything you want with only 2 toggle switches (plus your regular pickup selector switch) and two push/pull pots.
The only issue I see is with your tone control. Trying to have the same Master tone pot for both active and passive stages of the circuit may present issues. A dual-gang pot would solve that, but if you're going to have two P/P pots, that's not an option. (Your third pot is the one with the preamp attached, so both your other pots would have to be P/P in this scheme).
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Post by studiostriver on Apr 10, 2013 10:45:29 GMT -5
ss- I think JohnH has the right idea if you're not married to the freeway switch. They are pricey, and they take up a lot of room, so if you can get the same sounds without it (which you can), I think that would be the way to move forward. What you would have would be 2 DPDT On-On-On switches, one for each pickup. These switches select: Series HB / Coil Split / Parallel HB A third switch, which can be a Push/Pull pot, selects the neck pickup in/out of phase. A second P/P pot would then switch from passive to active output, selecting between the regular volume control and the preamp, which has its own volume control aboard it. So, I think you could do everything you want with only 2 toggle switches (plus your regular pickup selector switch) and two push/pull pots. The only issue I see is with your tone control. Trying to have the same Master tone pot for both active and passive stages of the circuit may present issues. A dual-gang pot would solve that, but if you're going to have two P/P pots, that's not an option. (Your third pot is the one with the preamp attached, so both your other pots would have to be P/P in this scheme). Ok,so be it! And l like the idea.Just the second volume SD Blackouts preamp do not have push pull option cause its a preamp with volume pot so I need one more switch I guess. 2 switches would be great and simplier for playing,but 3 is not gonna make big difference... So after these changes it is something like this: ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2 DPDT On-On-On switches (split coil/serial/parallel) for bridge and neck pickups. 1 phase in/out mini switch 1 push pull volume switch for changing whole signal to volume 2 through Seymour Duncan Blackouts Modular Preamp. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- P.S.I thought It will be easier to put phase as a switch,and push/pull for changing signal to vol.2 cause I think i will visually see better when I playing what I`m doing..And I will using very often active/passive switching than phase... |
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Post by sumgai on Apr 10, 2013 11:46:55 GMT -5
DOBRODOSLI u nasu forumu!
......
Pozdrav iz Grcke Huh, guess those two months I spent in Zagreb still haven't been completely washed away - even after 41 years, I understood you two!  I don't know whether to be proud of my memory, or scared that my life is passing before my eyes..... sumgai |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 10, 2013 14:21:01 GMT -5
man, you can take the kid out of the balkans, but you can't take balkans out of the kid |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 10, 2013 14:22:11 GMT -5
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Post by newey on Apr 10, 2013 14:48:59 GMT -5
Studiostriver- If that's a final plan, I'll try to work up a diagram for you soon. It may be a week or so, however, as I have to go out of town this weekend, and work intrudes during the week. So, if someone else wants to "take up the cudgel" in the meantime . . . |
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Post by studiostriver on Apr 10, 2013 16:52:07 GMT -5
Studiostriver- If that's a final plan, I'll try to work up a diagram for you soon. It may be a week or so, however, as I have to go out of town this weekend, and work intrudes during the week. So, if someone else wants to "take up the cudgel" in the meantime . . . Well,if that is the only way then it`s a final plan then. No problem for waiting,I still need to buy a new pickups a spare some cash for guitar technician work so I can wait.Thanks in advance. |
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Post by newey on Apr 10, 2013 18:22:05 GMT -5
You will want to make sure you get the right switches as well. You'll need 2 On-On-On DPDT, an On-On DPDT mini-toggle (or P/P pot, your choice) for the phase, and another, either P/P or toggle, for switching the preamp in/out.
You will also need a stereo output jack, so the 9V battery can be disconnected when the guitar is unplugged.
One topic we haven't discussed (and a topic on which I'll need JohnH, ashcatlt, or "sum" body to help out) is whether switching the active preamp "on" may cause an audible "pop", and whether that could be minimized with an appropriate capacitor across that switch.
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Post by newey on Apr 10, 2013 18:26:38 GMT -5
It's not the only way to do this, there are other options, but I think most other options would end up being more "switchy" than JohnH's idea. But you sound as if you're not entirely happy with the idea, so if you are having doubts about this scheme, I'd like to resolve those before I draw anything up . . . |
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Post by studiostriver on Apr 10, 2013 19:52:15 GMT -5
You will want to make sure you get the right switches as well. You'll need 2 On-On-On DPDT, an On-On DPDT mini-toggle (or P/P pot, your choice) for the phase, and another, either P/P or toggle, for switching the preamp in/out. You will also need a stereo output jack, so the 9V battery can be disconnected when the guitar is unplugged. One topic we haven't discussed (and a topic on which I'll need JohnH, ashcatlt, or "sum" body to help out) is whether switching the active preamp "on" may cause an audible "pop", and whether that could be minimized with an appropriate capacitor across that switch. Thanks for all infos.I will keep that in mind and copy/paste on notepad. And thanks also for your efforts about finding the way to prevent pop when switching to 2nd volume...You are really helping me a lot,you don`t know how much.This means a lot to me. It's not the only way to do this, there are other options, but I think most other options would end up being more "switchy" than JohnH's idea. But you sound as if you're not entirely happy with the idea, so if you are having doubts about this scheme, I'd like to resolve those before I draw anything up . . . If the other options are gonna be even more switchy than this is the right solution.I just need the way to make it simplier to handle when playing and using it in everyday tasks. And just to ad that this guitar already have active electronics,so I have place where to put battery,and I do not know if it have stereo output jack...Do not know if it comes with active pickups or not? |
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Post by newey on Apr 10, 2013 20:58:35 GMT -5
It's kind of like finding out whether your dog is a male or a female- turn it over and look! ;D
A stereo ("TRS") output jack will have three conductors (Tip, Ring and Sleeve).
Many guitars with active electronics will use the ring connection to connect the battery when a mono plug is inserted, just like it's done on stompboxes.
It's probably less critical to do this on active guitar circuits, as they don't draw as much current as some stompboxes. But doing so will help lessen the number of battery changes.
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Post by farren on Apr 10, 2013 21:55:29 GMT -5
I have a C-7 HR FR, too, and it's really a great guitar if you got one with a good neck (and most seem to have good necks). I found the specs to be perfect for me: 26.5" scale, extra jumbo frets, and a neck thick enough to provide real stability. I'm not a wiring guru and admittedly only skimmed the thread for the moment, but you might consider incorporating a 5-way superswitch into it and ditch that 3-way. Getting a HH guitar that comes routed for a lever switch and not a 3-way toggle is IMO a real blessing (a good reason to buy an HR instead of a Loomis model) and one of the first things I did with mine was ditch the 3-way in favor of a 5-way. Not that you asked, but I also sold off the EMGs, changed all the electronics, direct-mounted modified Dimarzios (mounting tabs cut back), and have only recently converted the Dimarzios to be 100% EMG 707 route compatible by bonding them to the inside of vacant OEM EMG housings. Clean EMG look, but living, colorful non-EMG tone inside The one thing I kept from the stock electronics was the stereo jack (yes, Schecter uses a TRS for their active-equipped guitars, so you've got that requirement covered--the EMGs like newey said use ring and sleeve to complete the battery circuit so you're only draining the 9-volt(s) when a cable is plugged in). I like the security offered by a TRS jack so I kept mine and connected sleeve and ring together for ground when installing the Dimarzios. Just some tips for someone converting from active to passive with a guitar I also happen to own: Schecter uses carbon paint in the control and pickup cavities. I tested continuity allover the place when I first stripped mine and found it to be spotty at best. When my guitar was made, at least, in 2008 in SK, they were not using enough layers of carbon paint (probably just one) to achieve an effective shield--this, of course, didn't matter because they shipped with EMGs, but it certainly mattered for me given I intended to install passives. I copper-taped over all the carbon paint in the cavity, tested continuity again, and was happy. I'm not a firm believer of shielding humbucker pickup cavities, so I sanded the sporadic carbon paint and painted the cavities with plain ole flat black. I don't know if that made any difference, but I wanted to get rid of the shoddy carbon paint since it was impossible to connect it all to ground without either painting the cavities with more carbon paint or copper taping over it with conductive adhesive (then connecting it to the control cavity shielding). I'm sure one of the experts here can tell me if that shoddy carbon shielding acting more like numerous tiny antennas could have been detrimental or not with regard to noise. Don't forget to drill from the tremolo cavity to the control cavity so you can place a wire connecting claw and ground! Mine did not come with one, again, because EMGs don't care. Also don't forget to upgrade your tremolo block Finally, this is all I'll say about an active pre-amp as it really is a subjective thing: consider trying out the Bareknuckles first without it. I really don't think you need it, and by replacing the EMGs, that's the kind of thing you're getting away from. Then again, this site is about wiring up crazy things we do not really need It sounds like you know what you want, though, and the active electronics will be switchable, so I won't try to stop you Edit: Ahh, and one more thing: you probably already know this but your guitar came with mini-pots. They have a 1/4" diameter threaded bushing and some of your new pots may or may not instead have 3/8" thread bushings. When I re-outfit guitars that come with mini-pots, I tape over the finish and use a tapered hand reamer to slowly widen the holes, switching from going through the top to through the control cavity frequently to make sure I'm widening both sides evenly and testing with a 3/8" pot regularly so I don't overdo it. No big deal but I thought I'd warn you. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 10, 2013 23:45:00 GMT -5
I have EMG81/60 on the the ibby arz800 and this also has stereo jack. The same with the SD livewires in an my old Kramer 210. It seems standard for guitars with active circuits to help preserve battery life.
Also beware of the size of the BMP-1. This i read is about twice the size of a full-sized CTS pot. That could be an issue if the schecher's cavity is small.
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Post by studiostriver on Apr 11, 2013 4:33:58 GMT -5
I'm not a wiring guru and admittedly only skimmed the thread for the moment, but you might consider incorporating a 5-way superswitch into it and ditch that 3-way. Getting a HH guitar that comes routed for a lever switch and not a 3-way toggle is IMO a real blessing (a good reason to buy an HR instead of a Loomis model) and one of the first things I did with mine was ditch the 3-way in favor of a 5-way. Well hi first of all. If 5-way somehow gonna help me reduce the number of switches I would be more than a pleased to install it.I don`t mind installing 6-way for the same reason. Just some tips for someone converting from active to passive with a guitar I also happen to own: Schecter uses carbon paint in the control and pickup cavities. I tested continuity allover the place when I first stripped mine and found it to be spotty at best. When my guitar was made, at least, in 2008 in SK, they were not using enough layers of carbon paint (probably just one) to achieve an effective shield--this, of course, didn't matter because they shipped with EMGs, but it certainly mattered for me given I intended to install passives. I copper-taped over all the carbon paint in the cavity, tested continuity again, and was happy. I'm not a firm believer of shielding humbucker pickup cavities, so I sanded the sporadic carbon paint and painted the cavities with plain ole flat black. I don't know if that made any difference, but I wanted to get rid of the shoddy carbon paint since it was impossible to connect it all to ground without either painting the cavities with more carbon paint or copper taping over it with conductive adhesive (then connecting it to the control cavity shielding). I'm sure one of the experts here can tell me if that shoddy carbon shielding acting more like numerous tiny antennas could have been detrimental or not with regard to noise. Man I`m not guitar technician either.I barelly understand what you talking about.  For all my modifications I will pay pro guitar technician to do the job.So I assuming cause that guy cause he is luthier will know what to do when installing all these stuff. Don't forget to drill from the tremolo cavity to the control cavity so you can place a wire connecting claw and ground! Mine did not come with one, again, because EMGs don't care. Also don't forget to upgrade your tremolo block As the ground concern I guess that would be the guitar technician problem either.  And for tremolo block,I do not I need to upgrade it cause I think this work more than just fine for know.But I will considering changing it in a far future. Finally, this is all I'll say about an active pre-amp as it really is a subjective thing: consider trying out the Bareknuckles first without it. I really don't think you need it, and by replacing the EMGs, that's the kind of thing you're getting away from. Then again, this site is about wiring up crazy things we do not really need It sounds like you know what you want, though, and the active electronics will be switchable, so I won't try to stop you I`m in music when i was born i think ;D...My father was a drummer,so I am too for a whole my life,and for a 4 year activly a guitar player.And finished primal school for classsical guitar and piano,and playing bass only for recording purposse... Know back pickups topic. Well,I love the EMG`s in a certain way,but I`ve been working on my first album for a years know and realize that in my music there are melting pot of music genres witch demand more lively,warmer and more dynamic parts...From Hendrix pentathonics,Brian May melodies,Adrian Smith harmonics staccato phrasing to Gilmourish bluesy solos to the classical metal and very modern and also neoclassic Yngwie melodies and solos as well... Even I have very Deep Purple/Zeppelin rhythm phrases,but also have very modern progressive riffs which demand active eletronics in order to sound more tight and cutting through the mix. So for a few months know I came to idea to make this very versatile guitar that can fullfill all my studio recording needs...Cause I do not have money to buy 3 different guitars and if I have I`m not kind of guys who changing their instrument every few years.I like to stick with one that works well for years to come. Edit: Ahh, and one more thing: you probably already know this but your guitar came with mini-pots. They have a 1/4" diameter threaded bushing and some of your new pots may or may not instead have 3/8" thread bushings. When I re-outfit guitars that come with mini-pots, I tape over the finish and use a tapered hand reamer to slowly widen the holes, switching from going through the top to through the control cavity frequently to make sure I'm widening both sides evenly and testing with a 3/8" pot regularly so I don't overdo it. No big deal but I thought I'd warn you. I hope that this last is gonna be one of guitar technician jobs as well. Cheers bro and thanks for all your comments.Much appreciated. |
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Post by studiostriver on Apr 11, 2013 4:46:14 GMT -5
I have EMG81/60 on the the ibby arz800 and this also has stereo jack. The same with the SD livewires in an my old Kramer 210. It seems standard for guitars with active circuits to help preserve battery life. Also beware of the size of the BMP-1. This i read is about twice the size of a full-sized CTS pot. That could be an issue if the schecher's cavity is small. With Schecter Hellraiser 7FR everything is bigger and havier in compare to normal guitar so I think cavitiy have enough space for putting Blackouts preamp there... |
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Post by newey on Apr 11, 2013 5:48:38 GMT -5
In other words, you're asking if it could/would be worse than no shielding at all? I don't see how it could be worse. It may have been inadequate to work as a shield, and potentially could be as noisy as if you had no shielding at all, but it wouldn't be a source for additional noise. Noise in your guitar signal is a two-fold problem. There are things in the environment that generate noise, such as florescent light ballasts and electric motors. Then, there are things that transmit that noise into your guitar signal- mostly your pickups, which have long coils of wire and which do act as a sort-of antenna. The problem you describe is discontinuity in the shielding paint. Any particular area that is not connected to anything can't act as an "antenna"- if it's not connected, it can't be transmitting any noise to your signal. These disconnected bits also cannot be generating any noise into the environment themselves, as there is no significant current flowing through them. Shielding paint does work, but you have to use several thick coats. In my experience, copper foil works better and is easier to work with. But a manufacturer using inadequate shielding is nothing new- it was the reason that the original "Guitarnuts" site was founded in the first place, from which this board evolved. As John Astley pointed out on the original site (I'm paraphrasing), manufacturers of $2000 custom guitars use shielding practices that wouldn't be acceptable to consumers in a $30 CD player. And that's if they bother to shield at all. . . |
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Post by studiostriver on Apr 11, 2013 6:40:53 GMT -5
In other words, you're asking if it could/would be worse than no shielding at all? I don't see how it could be worse. It may have been inadequate to work as a shield, and potentially could be as noisy as if you had no shielding at all, but it wouldn't be a source for additional noise. Noise in your guitar signal is a two-fold problem. There are things in the environment that generate noise, such as florescent light ballasts and electric motors. Then, there are things that transmit that noise into your guitar signal- mostly your pickups, which have long coils of wire and which do act as a sort-of antenna. The problem you describe is discontinuity in the shielding paint. Any particular area that is not connected to anything can't act as an "antenna"- if it's not connected, it can't be transmitting any noise to your signal. These disconnected bits also cannot be generating any noise into the environment themselves, as there is no significant current flowing through them. Shielding paint does work, but you have to use several thick coats. In my experience, copper foil works better and is easier to work with. But a manufacturer using inadequate shielding is nothing new- it was the reason that the original "Guitarnuts" site was founded in the first place, from which this board evolved. As John Astley pointed out on the original site (I'm paraphrasing), manufacturers of $2000 custom guitars use shielding practices that wouldn't be acceptable to consumers in a $30 CD player. And that's if they bother to shield at all. . . Oh,great,I didn`t know that.Then I need proper shielding for my guitar too...Man.I need to take a bank credit.  |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2013 7:13:32 GMT -5
I'm sure one of the experts here can tell me if that shoddy carbon shielding acting more like numerous tiny antennas could have been detrimental or not with regard to noise. As newey pointed out, as a side note "that shoddy carbon shielding" and other related shielding methods with aluminum or copper, and shielding was the reason behind the first GN site was created : Most of us came down here in an effort to try and make SC have minimal hum, just like a humbucker. Few of us got there (completely eliminate environmental electromagnetic interference), but the journey was worth the trouble. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2013 7:21:54 GMT -5
Oh,great,I didn`t know that.Then I need proper shielding for my guitar too...Man.I need to take a bank credit. most probably your guitar i just fine. And in case you wanna shield it, the cost is ridiculous. Use some carbon foil as newey said or aluminum foil like i did. Also i have used conductive paint with success (i hope). So, chances are you will need more a trip to "INTEREX" rather a loan from "ADRIA banka", |
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only to promote this solder-less system?
For all my modifications I will pay pro guitar technician to do the job.So I assuming cause that guy cause he is luthier will know what to do when installing all these stuff.
And for tremolo block,I do not I need to upgrade it cause I think this work more than just fine for know.But I will considering changing it in a far future.