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Post by studiostriver on Apr 22, 2015 18:23:29 GMT -5
Where`s everybody gone? We're busy getting ready for the upcoming big birthday bash! Better hurry, only 1 more shopping day to go! I always last find out!Good grief,I must hurry. Jokes aside,sorry for being impatient,just do not forget about me.
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Post by newey on Apr 23, 2015 17:58:13 GMT -5
Studiostriver-
sg's estimate of my capabilities exceeds my own. He's right, what you want can be done, but at the moment I'm butting my head against the wall trying to do it. Let me ponder it further later this evening.
Is this still happening? Or, am I working on a diagram for the original wiring? Also, do we know the color code for these pickups?
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Post by studiostriver on Apr 23, 2015 18:26:42 GMT -5
Studiostriver- sg's estimate of my capabilities exceeds my own. He's right, what you want can be done, but at the moment I'm butting my head against the wall trying to do it. Let me ponder it further later this evening. Thanks for all your help bro.I`m glad that you did not forget about me.I can wait,as I wrote previously I must wait about 5 May till my pots and switches (2 push pulls 500k and 12 terminals 3 way toggle switch)came. Is this still happening? Or, am I working on a diagram for the original wiring? Also, do we know the color code for these pickups? Selector switch gonna be rewired (so please make scheme for standard bridge hum/both hum /neck hum combination) by my luthier when I install new pickups with mentioned above electronics.I waiting for them to come also.In about two weeks If I`m lucky enough. I do not have color code for pickups but I can ask my pickup maker tomorrow. Best regards.
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Post by studiostriver on Apr 25, 2015 4:08:49 GMT -5
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Post by studiostriver on Apr 27, 2015 15:57:30 GMT -5
Little update.
I ordered pickups today,they`ll be finished for 2 days,and sent to me.So I will need to finish this scheme in about 15 days from know. I hope we will finish it on time. Best regards.
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Post by newey on May 3, 2015 16:28:59 GMT -5
OK, Studiostriver, here's a diagram. All thanks here go to JohnH, who actually drew up the crucial part of this, the wiring to the 4P switch. Hopefully, I have been a faithful scribe for his drawing (Hint: That means I need this to be double-checked first!). I have used the wire colors indicated by SS for his custom pickups. Also, the wiring is as if viewed from the back of the pots, switches, etc- hopefully I haven't shown the pot wiring backwards, as I often tend to do!
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Post by JohnH on May 4, 2015 15:22:33 GMT -5
Diagram seems good apart from a couple of things:
left/right flip of the lugs of the two pots
Assuming the two pickups are identical with wire colours and polarities etc, one is looking out of phase with the other, in the two settings that should be in phase. I suggest the neck pickup be changed so red swaps with white, green swaps with black. This will get all coils pointing the same way and leave a hum cancelling pair of singles if you cut both pickups, and also the series Oop setting will be hum cancelling too.
The order of settings on S4 will be parallel/series/seriesOop
I think this could be a good scheme, with nothing redundant or quirky and everything as humcancelling as it can be. Wiring it up can start away from the guitar, just putting the blue wires across the S4 switch with a couple of wires to go to S3. Then the rest of the wiring is fairly simple.
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Post by newey on May 4, 2015 15:54:37 GMT -5
Thanks John, I'll make those changes as suggested. I always get the dang pots backwards!
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Post by studiostriver on May 5, 2015 6:29:03 GMT -5
Diagram seems good apart from a couple of things: The order of settings on S4 will be parallel/series/seriesOop I think this could be a good scheme, with nothing redundant or quirky and everything as humcancelling as it can be. Wiring it up can start away from the guitar, just putting the blue wires across the S4 switch with a couple of wires to go to S3. Then the rest of the wiring is fairly simple. I like the order of settings of S4 this way much better. How things are,I think I will try to use my original 3way switch cause I`m really broke after buying whole bunch of things. But I prefer making 2 schemes just in case with normal and JP7 switch if things go wrong and I had to switch it if my tech states that original is being is damaged. Thank you guys a lot. You do not even no how much this means to me. This is particularity my life,playing,recording with this guitar. Thanks again.
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Post by newey on May 5, 2015 18:21:04 GMT -5
Once we see how your tech goes about rewiring the switch for HH operation, we can then adapt the diagram. Only 3 wires will have to be moved.
I still have to do the clean-up work as suggested by JohnH, I should get those revisions done in the next day or two.
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Post by studiostriver on May 6, 2015 6:44:23 GMT -5
Once we see how your tech goes about rewiring the switch for HH operation, we can then adapt the diagram. Only 3 wires will have to be moved. I still have to do the clean-up work as suggested by JohnH, I should get those revisions done in the next day or two. Well there is a little problem.I live in redneck country,my nearest guitar tech is 5 hours of driving in different town.So,in order to check I do not have that luxury of going to him just to see if switch gonna works(35 euros are fuel expenses). So I had to have both schemes,and if my JP7 switch fails,we will instantly switch to regular one.
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Post by Deleted on May 7, 2015 1:50:26 GMT -5
Well there is a little problem.I live in redneck country,my nearest guitar tech is 5 hours of driving So what, at least you have one. In Athens where I live, options are fewer, (supposedly) good techs want 200 EUR for the simplest work, they are arrogant, hard to cope with and usually end up doing a very very bad work. Most Serbs/Bosnians/Yugoslavs/Croats/people who were born somewhere near there/etc (choose whatever term does not offend you), I have met, usually are very good in house work, so some wood work and electronics (guitar work) are often within their capabilities. WHAT WENT WRONG WITH YOU? OK kidding, anyways how do you buy from within Bosnia? By paypal? Does paypal allow Bosnia to use it? Just curious. I know Paypal has sanctioned Serbia (not much of a surprise).
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Post by studiostriver on May 7, 2015 7:11:31 GMT -5
Well there is a little problem.I live in redneck country,my nearest guitar tech is 5 hours of driving So what, at least you have one. In Athens where I live, options are fewer, (supposedly) good techs want 200 EUR for the simplest work, they are arrogant, hard to cope with and usually end up doing a very very bad work. Most Serbs/Bosnians/Yugoslavs/Croats/people who were born somewhere near there/etc (choose whatever term does not offend you), I have met, usually are very good in house work, so some wood work and electronics (guitar work) are often within their capabilities. WHAT WENT WRONG WITH YOU? OK kidding, anyways how do you buy from within Bosnia? By paypal? Does paypal allow Bosnia to use it? Just curious. I know Paypal has sanctioned Serbia (not much of a surprise). Well,I could learn it very quickly,my father is electrician and stuff like that,but I have very expensive guitar and I do not wanna learning on it.Besides that it needs drilling the hole for toggle switch.The reason why we are good at house works cause 90% of people in country have no money for simple living.We had to learn it. I mostly doing audio editing,classes on classical guitar/electric/bass,composing.And as teenager I was the only metal drummer(for about 12 years)and singer at the same time.So you could say I spent all my time in music very much. And yes for very strange reason we have pay pal where Serbia,Macedonia do not have it..Serbia as far as I know is not sanctioned,they never got it in a first place to be.I think they still can use it,but they`re allowed just send money via pal pal,but can`t receive...The main reason is they do not want to accept pay pal policy(idiots). Story aside, few days we had an accident, Muslim extremist 10 meter near my house attacked cops,killed one and injured 2. Balkan was always the cradle of primitive actions . I wish I was never born here in a first place.Wars,crimes,killings destroyed all my childhood.Know they came back to finish the job i think.
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Post by Deleted on May 7, 2015 23:00:25 GMT -5
I barely policized my post, but you went over the top.
I wouldn't give a rats butt if it wasn't that when i first visited your land(s) this was like a revelation for me. I found the most vivid, cultured, intelligent, and unbelievably generous people in my whole life. + modern (by your very own western standards). The single cacophony was the inexplicable to me poverty and "international" isolation and demonization. Of course I understood as I became older. Sorry to disappoint your self-hating tendencies, but I think that your stance is not fair at all.
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Post by newey on May 8, 2015 5:35:01 GMT -5
Since we are unlikely to be able to solve the world's problems in this forum, let's get back to trying to solve Studiostriver's guitar problems.
SS- To move forward, we need to know the "pinout" for the JP7 switch. Earlier,I had asked if the guitar was currently working, or whether the switch had already been de-wired. You then clarified that the pictures weren't of the actual guitar, but I still don't know the answer to the question. If the guitar is already disassembled to some degree, and if you have a multimeter, then we can easily discern the internal connections of the switch.
If the guitar has not been disassembled, then you have some decisions to make. I have search online for a pinout diagram for this switch without any luck, so I think we're on our own to figure it out.
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Post by studiostriver on May 8, 2015 6:30:58 GMT -5
I barely policized my post, but you went over the top. I wouldn't give a rats butt if it wasn't that when i first visited your land(s) this was like a revelation for me. I found the most vivid, cultured, intelligent, and unbelievably generous people in my whole life. + modern (by your very own western standards). The single cacophony was the inexplicable to me poverty and "international" isolation and demonization. Of course I understood as I became older. Sorry to disappoint your self-hating tendencies, but I think that your stance is not fair at all. I do not wanna argue with you.But you do not live here,I do. My whole life I can`t get the proper job just because I`m not in politics,and do not judge people by nationality,religion or skin color.The other thing is because I`m metal musician.Society totally ignores all indifferent people,artist of any kind. To them i`m narcoman, satanist who playing loud nonsense that has no value. I would certainly die of hunger if internet do no start to offer me job opportunities. There are things I would like to say but it is not for public,so I will stay silent on comments. And you misunderstood me,I do not hate anything or anyone.I am cosmopolitan.I just wanna be who I am without anyone to judge me.
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Post by studiostriver on May 8, 2015 6:50:11 GMT -5
Since we are unlikely to be able to solve the world's problems in this forum, let's get back to trying to solve Studiostriver's guitar problems. SS- To move forward, we need to know the "pinout" for the JP7 switch. Earlier,I had asked if the guitar was currently working, or whether the switch had already been de-wired. You then clarified that the pictures weren't of the actual guitar, but I still don't know the answer to the question. If the guitar is already disassembled to some degree, and if you have a multimeter, then we can easily discern the internal connections of the switch. If the guitar has not been disassembled, then you have some decisions to make. I have search online for a pinout diagram for this switch without any luck, so I think we're on our own to figure it out. I totally agree on this.No more talking about this as far as I`m concern. Know back to topic.JP7 switch working perfectly fine.I still using the old pickups.Almost all stuff that I order came.I just waiting Bourne Pots.Today arrived 12 terminals,4 pole 3 way switch,and I`m really happy.It is well built (all parts manufactured) As I sad before I bought used guitar,so I noticed the switch was once de-wired.But I personally not touched anything. The last 2 pictures I sent on p.m. are from my guitar(The blue one with yellow patch on back to damp springs). So guitar is not disassembled yet.I asked father(who finished middle electrician school) for help on making pin put diagram,but he sad he do not know to do that. Best regards,and thank you kindly for all help.
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Post by newey on May 8, 2015 11:17:36 GMT -5
In order to test your existing switch, you would need to disconnect it. You would then use a multimeter (set to measure resistance) to check each of the contacts to see what those contacts are wired to, for each position of the switch. you would test between each of the contacts and the output from the switch
Unfortunately, I can't tell much from the photos, and in particular, I can't tell where the signal output is from the switch. I see the various connections for the pickup wires, but I don't see where the signal comes out of the switch.
I have been looking on the web to try to find more info on this switch, but haven't found a pinout diagram yet.
Given what you have said about this switch, it may well need to be replaced anyway, as one more soldering/desoldering of it could kill it. But I appreciate that cost is an issue for you.
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Post by studiostriver on May 8, 2015 13:12:30 GMT -5
In order to test your existing switch, you would need to disconnect it. You would then use a multimeter (set to measure resistance) to check each of the contacts to see what those contacts are wired to, for each position of the switch. you would test between each of the contacts and the output from the switch Unfortunately, I can't tell much from the photos, and in particular, I can't tell where the signal output is from the switch. I see the various connections for the pickup wires, but I don't see where the signal comes out of the switch. I have been looking on the web to try to find more info on this switch, but haven't found a pinout diagram yet. Given what you have said about this switch, it may well need to be replaced anyway, as one more soldering/desoldering of it could kill it. But I appreciate that cost is an issue for you. If you remember I sent you in message exactly how to connect this JP7 switch to classic bridge/both/neck with exact wiring.What all we need there? Ok,if this switch cause so much trouble,I will look forward to replace it,somehow. Just tell me,can I replace it with one of these switches? www.mitrosmusic.com/proizvod/6161-DiMarzio-EP1108/www.ebay.com/itm/one-3-way-toggle-switch-on-on-on-for-guitar-amp/110656989797?hash=item19c3abaa65I`m kind a do not like feel of Les Paul style toggle selectors with plastic tip. www.mitrosmusic.com/proizvod/13668-Gibson-PRIBOR-Straight-Type-w--Cream-Switch-Cap-Natural/www.mitrosmusic.com/proizvod/13665-Gibson-PRIBOR-Toggle-Switch-L-Type-w--Cream-Switch-Cap-Natural/
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Post by studiostriver on May 9, 2015 10:52:21 GMT -5
I decided to buy selector switch.I will borrow some money. So we do not need to worry about this JP7 selector.
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Post by newey on May 10, 2015 15:51:45 GMT -5
OK, then, we should be good to go with my prior diagram, although I still need to fix the 2 issues JohnH identified. We don't want your pots to be wired lefty!
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Post by studiostriver on May 10, 2015 21:53:50 GMT -5
OK, then, we should be good to go with my prior diagram, although I still need to fix the 2 issues JohnH identified. We don't want your pots to be wired lefty! Please triple check that everything is ok.
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Post by JohnH on May 11, 2015 3:07:03 GMT -5
OK, then, we should be good to go with my prior diagram, although I still need to fix the 2 issues JohnH identified. We don't want your pots to be wired lefty! Please triple check that everything is ok. It is important to understand that when we work out a new design here on GN2, it is done with the best intentions of it being correct and we try to check carefully. But there is no guarantee offered nor can we always double or triple check a new design. The best way to ensure a sucessful project is to figure out and trace through the wiring yourself. Ask as many questions as you like. This will help enormously when you troubleshoot the build if it doesnt work perfectly first time. Carry on....
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Post by studiostriver on May 11, 2015 7:12:28 GMT -5
Please triple check that everything is ok. It is important to understand that when we work out a new design here on GN2, it is done with the best intentions of it being correct and we try to check carefully. But there is no guarantee offered nor can we always double or triple check a new design. The best way to ensure a sucessful project is to figure out and trace through the wiring yourself. Ask as many questions as you like. This will help enormously when you troubleshoot the build if it doesnt work perfectly first time. Carry on.... Well I would like to,but I do not have any single condition for that.I can`t even start.In a future when I bought thing I need for my own noob projects I will try for sure.But particularly on this one,I taking my new parts directly to guitar tech/luthier guy.He doing it for life so I guess he knows a lot about this stuff. He is very famous in Serbia for making guitars,and aside of that really great guys. www.facebook.com/pages/Ilianni-Guitars/284354395107643?fref=ts------------------------------ Update: I just bought Switchcraft Short Straight Type 3-Way Toggle Switch (with extra chrome tip ) www.ebay.com/itm/270900087886?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Post by newey on May 11, 2015 21:48:41 GMT -5
OK,here's v2.0 . . . I swapped lugs on the pots, so hopefully those are correct now as viewed from the rear of the guitar. I also swapped the coils on the neck HB so that the split coil combo will be hum-cancelling. So, this should be good to go, but let's let someone sign off on it first. Also, please note that the gray wire (which is actually white) connects only to the top left lug on the 4-pole switch. I used light gray to indicate, by arrows, the internal switch connections when the switch is centered. But after I switched the neck HB "inside out",I now have gray against the gray, so it sort of appears as if the gray wire is also connected to the center lug- it is not. All the jumper wires on the switch are indicated by light blue wires only.
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Post by studiostriver on May 12, 2015 4:41:30 GMT -5
Thanks bro. I`m kind a confused.What is that yellow cable? As I see,bridge grey is connected to S2,and neck is on S4.Arrows just indicated changes when using push pull.Am I right? And if I remember JohnH stated that S4 connections are parallel/series/SOOP?
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Post by newey on May 12, 2015 6:05:55 GMT -5
Correct.
Yes. The neck gray wire has moved in the second version, as John suggested, so that we get the coils swapped correctly.
No. The arrows indicate the internal switch connections in the S4 switch when in the center position. These just make it easier to follow the "path" of the signal when reading the diagram. They don't mean anything as far as wiring the switch, it's just a visual aid to reading the diagram.
The P/P pots just split the HBs. The yellow wire shorts the "series junction" of the one HB, the other is grounded instead.
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Post by studiostriver on May 12, 2015 8:50:20 GMT -5
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Post by JohnH on May 12, 2015 17:32:15 GMT -5
Diagram seems ok! In phase series is the middle position though.
Now you have the pickups, id suggest checking the wire connections to confirm which wires go with which coil, just to confirm all assumptions match. Yoh can do this by just touching wire pairs across a guitar cord plugged to an amp. Lightly tap the poles with a scredriver. Red/white pair should make a thump as should green/black. One from each like red and black should not.
Now listen to the loudness of the thump. Take red/white, is it louder when you tap the screw coil or the slug coil? Are both pickups the same or different? The louder one should be the coil for that pole but you get a sound from both since they are linked magnetically.
Now place the two pickups face to face ie screw coil to screw coil. Do they attract or repel?
Diagram has been based on red/white always a north coil but is the screw coil on one and the slug coil on the other. These tests will check.
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Post by studiostriver on May 13, 2015 5:29:57 GMT -5
Diagram seems ok! In phase series is the middle position though. Oh,is there any way to make different order? Parallel/Series/SOOP seems the most logical and rational one. Now you have the pickups, id suggest checking the wire connections to confirm which wires go with which coil, just to confirm all assumptions match. Yoh can do this by just touching wire pairs across a guitar cord plugged to an amp. Lightly tap the poles with a scredriver. Red/white pair should make a thump as should green/black. One from each like red and black should not. Now listen to the loudness of the thump. Take red/white, is it louder when you tap the screw coil or the slug coil? Are both pickups the same or different? The louder one should be the coil for that pole but you get a sound from both since they are linked magnetically. Now place the two pickups face to face ie screw coil to screw coil. Do they attract or repel? Diagram has been based on red/white always a north coil but is the screw coil on one and the slug coil on the other. These tests will check. The pickup maker already gave me his color code of his pickups.I sent it to newey before he started making a scheme.Do I still need to check it? Although to add I did not understand half of thing that you sad.I have guitar amp head,but I do not have a cabinet.I use studio gear to connect it in signal chain processing and then in computer,which is not desirable thing to test pickups on it. Kind regards.
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