|
Post by newey on Apr 5, 2021 11:10:04 GMT -5
Really want to keep the classic fender pickup selection style (split coils with B/M and N/M in switch positions 2 and 4) while also being able to select N/B only (or even all 3 simultaneously if possible). Easiest way to achieve N + B and the "all three" combos is with a "neck on" or a "bridge on" switch. If you want more options like coil cuts, series, etc, then JohnH's scheme is a good way to go.
|
|
deebog01
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
|
Post by deebog01 on Apr 5, 2021 14:50:39 GMT -5
I was thinking about what you could do with your HSH build. The Strat SP HSH above which you based your sketch on would still be my best offering. If you wanted to have the third pot to fill the spot on a Strat, I think Id add a bass cut to go with the treble cut, and keep the rest the same. Another option could be to add what I called a 'fade' knob in the other SP designs for SSS and HSS. What it does is gradually fade down one pickup, only when in a series pair. Both of these ideas for a third pot allow you to control the excess thickness that can occur in series combos. The bass cut is a fantastic idea! Going to have a look at the other SP designs and think about that fade knob too tho... but truth-be-told, the Strat SP HSH is one hell of a good-looking plan as it is. a bass cut would be a great addition that wouldn't detract from its efficient design. Really appreciate your help!
|
|
deebog01
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
|
Post by deebog01 on Apr 5, 2021 14:56:06 GMT -5
Really want to keep the classic fender pickup selection style (split coils with B/M and N/M in switch positions 2 and 4) while also being able to select N/B only (or even all 3 simultaneously if possible). Easiest way to achieve N + B and the "all three" combos is with a "neck on" or a "bridge on" switch. If you want more options like coil cuts, series, etc, then JohnH's scheme is a good way to go. Spent some time looking at Jaguar and Jazzmaster designs... Even thought about individual Series/Split/Parallel for each HB. But I'm really liking JohnH's scheme with the bass cut pot. It's a nice way to push the potential of the hardware while keeping the Strat a Strat.
|
|
deebog01
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
|
Post by deebog01 on Apr 5, 2021 15:21:32 GMT -5
I was thinking about what you could do with your HSH build. The Strat SP HSH above which you based your sketch on would still be my best offering. If you wanted to have the third pot to fill the spot on a Strat, I think Id add a bass cut to go with the treble cut, and keep the rest the same. Another option could be to add what I called a 'fade' knob in the other SP designs for SSS and HSS. What it does is gradually fade down one pickup, only when in a series pair. Both of these ideas for a third pot allow you to control the excess thickness that can occur in series combos. Also, by adding the bass cut as you suggest as a push/pull eliminates the need for an extra switch. Standard 3-knob design. Love it.
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Apr 5, 2021 15:57:59 GMT -5
I think the bass cut on a push-pull would be ideal. The challenge will be to find the right part for it. Bass cuts tend to be high value, like 1M instead of 250k or 500k and this gives them a larger range of max cut. Also, to get the bass-cut action reasonably spread out across the pot turn, a log taper is best but if you want it to be such that turning up to 10 is max bass = no cut, its a reverse log taper (Type C). These are available and G+L have them in their PTB wiring. But getting that on a push pull, with the right shaft to suit the Strat knobs may be the tricky part.
A decent fall back could be a standard 500k log push pull. A bit less cut, and wire it so 0 is max bass. Or a linear pot, 10 is max bass and the spread is a bit compressed to one end.
|
|
deebog01
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
|
Post by deebog01 on Apr 5, 2021 17:13:34 GMT -5
I think the bass cut on a push-pull would be ideal. The challenge will be to find the right part for it. Bass cuts tend to be high value, like 1M instead of 250k or 500k and this gives them a larger range of max cut. Also, to get the bass-cut action reasonably spread out across the pot turn, a log taper is best but if you want it to be such that turning up to 10 is max bass = no cut, its a reverse log taper (Type C). These are available and G+L have them in their PTB wiring. But getting that on a push pull, with the right shaft to suit the Strat knobs may be the tricky part. A decent fall back could be a standard 500k log push pull. A bit less cut, and wire it so 0 is max bass. Or a linear pot, 10 is max bass and the spread is a bit compressed to one end. Found this on tonefiend. Pretty sure it came from you as well, JohnH. Is this how you'd do it, relative to the SP HSH schematic?
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Apr 5, 2021 17:30:37 GMT -5
|
|
deebog01
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
|
Post by deebog01 on Apr 5, 2021 17:53:10 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Apr 6, 2021 2:52:49 GMT -5
The diagram looks right, except that since its likely that a reverse-taper log push-pull will not appear, and you'll likely use a standard log taper, then the bass pot should mirror left to right. This will mean 0 is off, ie full bass no cut, and 10 is max cut, least bass. I reckon you'd get used to that.
That 1M push pull is described as 'audio' which generally means a log taper, normal direction. If you are ok with how it turns, it looks to be a good choice. If you imagine it drawn under the loose switch, then it will all be right, though I expect you'll move it to the right of the other pots
|
|