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Post by strat80hm on Oct 7, 2016 15:35:15 GMT -5
So this is real and Axon has it, wow.. Does this "split across string-length" technology have a name?
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Post by strat80hm on Oct 6, 2016 22:33:18 GMT -5
It s quite hot to the touch - not sure wether or not that d be enough to melt down plastic..
I m with you, the Apple way... (http://guitarnuts2.proboards.com/thread/4526/folks-martin-lost-minds?page=1&scrollTo=78733) Choosing 4.5V for a guitar device is really twisted i think.
Let me rephrase this idea: - connecting a 10K pot in serie at the 4.5V output - turning the pot off till the PX4 shuts down Did i get it right?
(note: all the pots i have are 250 or 500, 10K are the super small thing right?
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Post by strat80hm on Oct 6, 2016 14:07:47 GMT -5
Nice project Cyn - functional midi-basses are not common, i d like to hear your review when you re done.
- I like the acoustic side of these saddles indeed - also the "string splitting" (Bass on low strings - piano on high ones) is nice - although the part of the system that impresses me the most is the splitting of the "strumming area" in 3 different sounds (4"40' on video) => I cannot seem to find any info on this feature. Wondering how this is achieved, looks quite surreal actually..
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Post by strat80hm on Oct 4, 2016 20:42:17 GMT -5
It's probably quicker to show you: You can read about it here: Ghost Modular Pickup SystemI've got a Fernandes sustainer guitar and fretless bass conversion that will eventually get this treatment. It is amazing what can be done with this system. That thing is quite incredible.. 3 sounds on one string just by moving strumming hand? Have you try it?
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Post by strat80hm on Oct 4, 2016 20:28:47 GMT -5
So you mean that the 220TO wont get any warmer than that? Well in this case the inside-battery-compartment idea might be a real possibility..
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Post by strat80hm on Oct 3, 2016 1:15:56 GMT -5
I would guess no, but if you have some extras you can parallel two or three capacitors on the input. That sounds like a plan - yes i ordered a couple of extra-everything so that d work. Thank you for a good tip! I ll just do that Currently trying to come up with a elegant way to solder all that together in a tight/smart way - i m thinking inside the angle of an aluminum profile corner (about 1 or 2 inch long, that d second as an additional heat sink as well)
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Post by strat80hm on Oct 2, 2016 17:15:58 GMT -5
It does actually - large enough for 4 LR6 battery Are you suggesting to fit it there? that d be neat, although what about the heat? Actually, after letting it on for a couple of hours, it s not getting really hot, but still a lil - and PX4 is 100% plastic.
Other option would be to hide this circuit inside my home-made switch-looper enclosure. This is a sturdy plastic electric box that so far contains 2 footswitches, 2 LEDs, 6 quarter-inch jack sockets, 1DC female input => anything that would be incommoded with proximity to circuit?
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Post by strat80hm on Oct 2, 2016 17:06:25 GMT -5
- 7 string, RG or (RGA or RGD) shaped - 26.5" neck-trough, 5-piece maple/wenge (or equivalent) neck with titanium rods, double-action truss rod, very thin neck RG-type - Ash body or alder (basswood is ultra cool as far as tone is concerned but needs enhancement around bushings ) - Floyd Rose (or equivalent) - white body (parchment, cream-like) - maple fretboard - chrome hardware That is a neat project GreekD, loving it! Specs are not without reminding me a little of that Schecter Hellraiser 7 string - besides the shape, maple fretboard (that s an interesting idea too btw, and might look vintage indeed) Sup with titanum rods (is it lighter than carbon rods?) Indeed with a cream white and maple neck it s gonna have that Yngwie vintage touch, could look not bad. Cool project, keep us posted! Thanks for the tip Cyn, interesting lead..
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Post by strat80hm on Oct 1, 2016 23:02:26 GMT -5
Update: - received the components (Jameco is super fast and pretty cheap indeed) - set up the circuit on breadboard - miracle! PX4 turns on!! Thanks everyone for fine directions! Notes: - i m letting the circuit on to see how it fares over time - the 7805 is indeed getting a bit hot (i still can touch it with my finger though) - i added that little heatsink since - both input and output caps are .1uF (i might have made a mistake ordering..) => is this a concern? is this creating more heat? Now i realize how small that is (good news) so i have to find some small enclosure idea.
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 26, 2016 14:21:56 GMT -5
Thanks for insight!
That solution makes total sense overall - however powerstrips are huge! i have clear limitations: my entire system (pedals+ear monitor system+power supply+cables+DI) must still fit in its bag (a sturdy laptop case with strong shoulder strap and robust handle - much more roadworthy than pedaltrains & co My homemade pedalboard is light and ergonomic (uses 2 rows and 2 floors), i can access all the 8 switches while pretty much resting my foot on the wah the entire time). So my whole set up fits this laptop bag + guitar gigbag and it s perfect for commuting around (by bicycle or train) - and is accepted along with the guitar as a carry-on when flying ( just check my clothes, no gear). So i dont have room for any extra charger, thus this thread.
Thanks, looks friendly to me!
I like this sound concept. thanks for the tip Retread - My using a unique 9V OneSpot de facto puts my system into that "single point of failure" situation regardless. My unique way out when pedalboard fails has been to hastily plug the guitar straight into DI box and keep on smiling - so i ll keep that option up anyway.
I m ordering parts and will give the "unique power supply" a try and see.
Another option would be to find a small pedal that readily accepts 9V while providing a headphone output for monitoring - like the current pedal-sized Korg Pandora actually! But in general, i like to do with i have, first.
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 25, 2016 13:20:19 GMT -5
Good points thanks!
About the Altoid tin, that s just an idea - if the circuit (with or without heatsink) can fit into something smaller (?), i ll be more than happy.
What i have is a small and compact pedalboard with a OneSpot + another (flimsy) 4.5V powersupply (with european plug adaptor) that i each time need to plug separately. it s really not convenient - i d love to use just one plug for all the gear! Much more ergonomic and less hassle on stage.
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 24, 2016 22:17:58 GMT -5
Thanks for recap guys! -7805 at least 1A - TO-220 case (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TO-220) -0.3uF Capacitor at input (cant seem to find that value on website, only 0.22uF or 1uF, which one is good then?) www.jameco.com/z/MD-22-Capacitor-Monolithic-Ceramic-0-22-micro-F-50V-plusmn-20-37-_25540.html-0.1uF at output -heatsink -enclosure (altoid?) -9V input socket - 4.5V output plug Q- do you think that i am gonna need some circuit board or it s manageable as "stand-alone" (i m lacking the jargon, hope this makes sense) I ll give Jameco a try thanks for the tip (shipping free for order above $10) (if NYC is still considered part of the it - nymag.com/nymetro/news/rnc/9573 - then yup, i m in the US) I m a working musician - time spent playing/experimenting with guitar and sounds - but unfortunately i m mostly a clueless-beginner-apprentice when it comes to understanding electronic (beyond pots and pickups and sustainer..) - though i wish i d spend more time around circuits! I ll definitely will purchase some extra (pots, plugs..) - cant seem to find guitar-friendly 250K logarithmic pots neither on Jameco Might have to order from different retailers, damn.. More soon hopefully
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 24, 2016 14:33:43 GMT -5
Well i do like the idea of a small circuit that fits into a small box - will order a 7805 (unexpensive indeed about 50 cents pop.. plus 10 bucks for shipping!) and will see if the 5V it provides will turn on the PX4 - which so far it didnt with the OneSpot..
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 23, 2016 14:39:36 GMT -5
Wait! It's on? What's not working then? I wouldn't have thought it would even boot up if it wasn't getting enough power to actually function, but... Ok there s a confusion here: i was trying to measure the current comsumption of the PX4, so yes it turns on when i use the 4.5V power supply! Not with the 9V OneSpot yet, which is the mission. Sorry for confusion.. Haha no i m not - i am one of those who spends a lot of time figuring out ways to have the most compact and ergonomic setup possible - everything (guitar, capo, slide, setlist, cables, pedalboard, DIbox, headphones..) is tight together and ready to plug and play as quickly as possible, fast-NYC style. That is why i want my system (pedalboard+earmonitor) to work with just 1 OneSpot.. unsuccessfully so far
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 22, 2016 20:18:05 GMT -5
Your diagram immediately above is good, but compressing it all into a heat-shrink-tube sized unit will prove unwieldy, to say the least. Better plan on other means of wrapping it all up into a neat package that can hide under the pedals on the board, or you're gonna get a visit from the Environmental Police for the ensuing gunky smoke and stench! (i.e. the tubing will shuffle off this mortal coil, as the parts heat up.)
The regulator will give you a solid voltage (at the necessary current flow), but it can cost more when you factor in the caps, and you really don't want to leave them out. Moreover, unless you buy a physically bigger version, then you will likely need a heat sink, thus adding to the cost, and also increasing your real estate needs.
So the regulator is an option - albeit a lil pricey and bulkier (i m a total novice - the whole circuit will look like something quite compact anyway that d fit into the proverbial Altoid tin right? (the device (PX4) is 1/3 smaller than an iphone, could maybe stack em up neatly if not too hot..) Thanks, will look into that..
Unfortunately not smiling yet - not getting the humor since the modest remaining of my distant physic classes are long gone after all these years of life (booze and pot might have helped in the erasing process i imagine.. but i digress) - do you mean that this is likely to function??
Thanks for this - i guess i sort remember that - although it doesnt really seem to work: i plug the Red probe into "400mA FUSED", then tried to "insert" the multimeter in serie (thanks to convenient alligator clips) between power supply and device In serie, i can read 0.016mA DC - although then the PX4 doesnt start up. In parallel" i then can read 0.0016A - while the PX4 is on. Not sure what i m doing wrong here.. But then it's not turning on, so we still don't actually know how much current it wants. Does this change even momentarily when you try to turn it on? Not seeing any change wether i turn PX4 on or off. Does this tell you anything? Well the device only turns on in one way, so i assume there s no confusion.. 2 adaptors is what i m using live as of now - it works ok but it s much inconvenient: longer set up time, bulky, extra outlet, double cable, one more thing to forget when you leave home, one more thing to forget when you pack up in the dark before the next band set up..). i guess i am dreaming of some sort of self-sufficient pedalboard/earmonitor package working with 1 OneSpot, 1 jack and 1 headset. Indeed Col! I ll keep on listening to your wisdom Is this about the poor Brexit choice? BTW i cant believe that this dude is in his 40s sometimes..
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 20, 2016 17:22:16 GMT -5
Hey Nuts, what s wrong with my voltage divider circuit? It would be very helpful if we knew how much current the PX4 demands at 4.5v but I can't get any useful results via an internet search. I reckon you might need to wire up some connectors with your 4.5V 500mA charger so you can place an ammeter in series. Barring that, let's imagine what would happen if your PX4 requires a rather modest 100 mA. 1.5v would be present across the lower 360 ohm resistor and the PX4. Not good. And it looks even worse if the PX has higher current demands than our modest estimate. Where do we go from here?Or you could use a three-pin regulator like a 7805. . Hey Retread, Thanks for your lights! PX4 requires 4.5V via plug (though i measure a 4.9V from power supply, so there s some margin) No mention of mA needs, though original power supply provides 500mA Also accepts 4x15V batteries=6V So you re also saying that the issue must be the current flow? As said above, i cant seem to measure it properly.. yet (learning..) I m trying to create a mini-circuit that could be housed in tube-shrink and hidden under the PX4 on my pedalboard (sharing the same OneSpot power supply), so staying away from heat wouldnt be a bad direction. I like the 7805 suggestion: would it be something like that?
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 20, 2016 16:44:15 GMT -5
8Oh,
Try this: plug the setup into the PX-4, and then measure the voltage available at the plug prong, whilst all is "live". I'm with col insofar as the resistors are probably limiting the current that gets to your device. More explanation in a moment or two....
If your meter supports reading current, then do that too.
Thanks Sumgai - will do this and come back with results.. I measure 4.6V at plug prong when all plugged Cant seem to measure current properly though - i read [-0.003] DC and it seems the unit is mA (which d makes a very low current right?) How do i do that? (searching on my own but not that obvious..)
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 20, 2016 13:04:39 GMT -5
8Oh,
Try this: plug the setup into the PX-4, and then measure the voltage available at the plug prong, whilst all is "live". I'm with col insofar as the resistors are probably limiting the current that gets to your device. More explanation in a moment or two....
Also, make sure that the negative output lead of the OneSpot is truly at the same potential as the Korg's grounded lead... if they aren't, then your voltage reading while disconnected would be 'good', but after connecting (and powering up) would probably be not so good. If your meter supports reading current, then do that too.
Thanks Sumgai - will do this and come back with results..
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 20, 2016 12:27:37 GMT -5
My guess is that it does not work because the resultant current is too low. By using a voltage divider, you are introducing 360 Ohms of resistance. You might just be able to instead just insert a resister in series (no divider) with the power supply. But, get it wrong, and you will blow something or worse. You will have to wait for someone who actually knows what they are talking about here. That's not me! Thanks for your input Col. I thought it d be something like that: I actually chose 360Ω randomly - also the OneSpot provides 1700mA...
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 19, 2016 22:11:29 GMT -5
Hey Nuts, what s wrong with my voltage divider circuit? Goal is to use a regular 9V supply (from trusted OneSpot) to feed a (4.5V) Pandora PX4. Note: i use the Pandora as a headphone amplifier (for easy in-ear monitors when playing acoustic guitar on loud stages alongside drums and bass and other noisy toys). It functions perfectly with a 4.5V 500mA charger. This doesnt work, although there s 4.5 to 4.9V at the output and the polarity is right - what could be the issue here? Thanks for your expertise!
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 16, 2016 18:53:20 GMT -5
Well you found some outside help, cant blame you - provided you use saved time to play the beast naturally
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 16, 2016 18:48:55 GMT -5
I cant quite tell about the kill switch Lil update: i wired everything as suggested - included kill-pot specials - and so far everything works fine and the battery LED hasnt even blinked since! Thank you you Nutz!
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 16, 2016 18:41:26 GMT -5
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 14, 2016 23:25:02 GMT -5
Actually, it's a step towards engineered obsolescence without the bothersome issue of organics taking so damn long to become harvestable... HTC1 We re doomed
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 13, 2016 14:46:51 GMT -5
John,
According to the eBay description, the unit will 'connect' when physically pushed by grounding the pickup selection switch output. (The more desirable way to implement a kill function.) It would appear that if this is the case, then it could be connected anywhere in the circuit, my personal preference being the tip terminal of the jack itself. Of course, that's because of the wide variety of circuits that could possibly be installed before said output jack... when all is said and done, that jack is the final arbiter of what's going out to the amp (or pedals), so that's the logical choice to mount the thing, amiright?
I do notice that this unit has a knurled split shaft. That's nice for Strat style knobs, but I wonder how many other kinds of guitar knobs won't/can't accommodate this thing, thus reducing the seller's market.
HTH
sumgai
Thanks for input Sumgai - i too want that pot to be the master volume/master killswitch of the entire guitar, thus last last in the chain Do you think not all knobs would fit on this? actually i use a wood knob borrowed from another guitar for now..
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 13, 2016 14:41:53 GMT -5
with the battery, It seemed like the white wire is used as battery negative on Fishman systems. If it goes to the ring, and its the only thing that does, then when you unplug, one end of the battery is connected to nothing and no current can flow. I cant quite tell about the kill switch. When you press it to kill the sound, does something get disconnected?, or does something get connected? Thanks for clear explanation - white wire should stay by itself on the ring - i guess i had the same mistake on my other volume-pot-equipped acoustic. Yes, when you press it, it grounds the signal - though on my other guitar, when doing so, that would turn that LED light on the preamp that usually briefly turn on at the moment you plug a jack in.
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 12, 2016 23:23:57 GMT -5
Thanks newey, just fixed it!
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 12, 2016 23:21:09 GMT -5
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 12, 2016 21:14:35 GMT -5
I m looking forward sustainable material as maybe a step away from that crooky planned obsolence trend haha
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Post by strat80hm on Sept 12, 2016 21:04:42 GMT -5
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