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Post by strat80hm on Jul 17, 2013 20:12:00 GMT -5
Good point here 4Real: this guitar needs to be strong. Thus i wont take the short route - as lazy as i can be.. - and go for a structurally sound and sturdy route first.
Whatever bring strength is good in this case: the wood-savvy friend whose machinery i m gonna use has some wood - maple, walnut, elm, etc - to choose from to create the plug, im wondering which to choose? Also, that idea of aluminum sounds interesting: is this compatible at all with the full plug direction?
That is a good point too, good ideas! Actually i dont expect any electric guitar to sound like an "acoustic guitar" no. My main goal with this guitar is that it can create sounds that i cannot really get out of my other electric ones: this is for a music project of mine that i composed mostly out of monophonic analog synth from the 70s, long notes, portamento, weird noises, VCF and all. Also when playing acoustic, I mostly play flamenca guitar (nylon string) with a lot of right-hand-fingers percussions. So i would love this project-guitar to be "alive" like an acoustic, meaning there s a sound when you knock on the wood or the strings. Is this precisely what you obtained with yours 4Real?
This indeed is probable. I was thinking of a unique "piezo volume mix" that would mix the signal from the x-bridge (piezo saddles) with the signal from at least one piezo captor (located somewhere smart), offering the possibility of guitar-drumming-on-the-body.
Do you think the size of my plug (on the picture) could be wider/larger?
That deep? I was thinking routing 3/8 only, but ok, thanks Cyn1.
So i was thinking of operating in this order: 1 - get rid of old finish (too bad, i liked that sparkling purple..) with heat-gun. 2 - routing 3 - plug
Is this ok?
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Post by strat80hm on Jul 17, 2013 10:22:05 GMT -5
Hey everyone, me back! Sorry for silence, was on tour as planned, though didnt bring the guitar prototype with me! Ok, so first, thank you for taking for sound advice, i ll address your points more specifically soon. But i guess i m gonna do what you say Cynical1, then refinish the color later. Here s the first step: routing the vibrato bridge area and fill it up with a plug. Also i ll need to route for the sustainer s circuit and the kill switch. I m thinking of creating two more holes to install piezo buzzers into: these, combined with the XBridge, would give me a better acoustic guitar feeling, allowing hand percussion. Any thought before i get started?
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 13, 2013 22:44:11 GMT -5
Removing the inserts seems to be quite easy in fact!
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 13, 2013 22:12:21 GMT -5
Today i received the X-bridge! Be careful when you order one of these; the X-Bridge comes in several versions and color, all under the name X-Bridge, and a lot of confusion in pictures/descriptions. I ordered mine (X-Bridge 2 poles Standard Chrome)...only to receive confirmation that i had just bought an X-Bridge FIXED (not a tremolo one), although of course the picture and the description were about the vibrato bridge version. It took some real effort to convince the seller (123music) to cancel and modify the order, mind you, despite the obvious mistake on the pics.. Anyway, when i opened the box today and found a legit chrome vibrato bridge, i decided to ignore the fact that it was the "plastic bushing" version, while i was trying to get the "threaded arm" version. So here is now my situation: I had this Kahler Spyder installed I bought this X-bridge and i have to make it fit in this routing: Existing holes are 2 15/16" (75mm) apart: before anything, i need to fill them up. - is it better to remove those 2 (rusty) inserts that are inside? I d rather not, it doesnt seem easy to do. - should i fill up the holes with pieces of wood? On the X-bridge, which comes without drilling template, I measure about 2.2"(57mm) in between the two poles. I ll use a press to drill vertically. As much as possible i like to take advantage of the existing routing in my floating setting: - i want to install the x-bridge horizontal (flat) -which is better for the piezo anyway- while keeping the floating-bridge setting that i like. - the recess is about 11/32nds"(9mm) deep - the pole-screw are about 7/8" (22mm) long. - therefore, each pole screw would end up 15/32" (12mm) inside the new insert and 10mm outside. => does it seem dangerously unbalanced?If so, i might have to add/glue a bar of wood along the knife-edge of the bridge before re-drilling, so that i keep the "floating horizontally over a recess cavity" benefit.
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 12, 2013 21:09:19 GMT -5
I see we walked the same path 4Real ;-)
All the points you mentioned crossed my mind a some point.
For years i mainly tuned 2 semitones below (DGCFAD) and like to drop the low D in C. I experimented with many string gauges, though these days i seem to like regular light 10-46 (for bending like butter) or 11-52. This is still in progress, depending on the day, the air, the weather, the music.
I play mainly with fingers, a la knopfler, or 8 finger tapping, so i like the action quite low. My vibrato bridge floats and usually allows a 4th or a 5th on the G (F) string. I use it a lot, up and down, on chords and single notes.
I m going to buy some tuning machines (light, locking, staggered) and do some test with the ebanol nut to see whether or not i need string trees. Then i ll decide for TUSQ nut or LSR.
Thanks for comments about these bridge-stabilizer items: i m thinking that i could keep the vibrato free in standard tuning, and maybe block it (at least one way) when i want to drop the low string.
To be continued...
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 12, 2013 12:44:09 GMT -5
I m still debating on which nut to choose: i like bending behind the nut, as well as plucking the strings in this area (Kalimba/West Africa ThumbPiano type of sound, or EVH just before the first chord of "Running with the Devil") Q: do the dampeners on the LSR allow the string to vibrate enough for such thing? Thanks for warning, this is precisely what i m talking about. Although on the video youtu.be/8MLpOiJQ5Jk , dude has a floating bridge fitted with a trem-setter and seem to switch from Regular to Dropped-D without tuning problem it seems - he doesnt really play chords either.. But you say it s not exactly working that flawlessly in the real life? I really need to figure this thing out as i d love the possibility.. 18:1 sounds nice (especially since i m gonna get rid of fine-tuners with the X-Bridge). As said, i dont own any "locking tuner" guitar, but you seem to say that Schaller/Hipshot/Sperzel are in the same quality range? What makes a locking-tuner better than the other one? Dont they all lock in the same way? In which way the Schaller "Top Mount" an improvement? You put a lot of tricks and creativity in your guitars 4Real, i like the "stealth" way of doing it, very inspiring, congrats indeed. Will most definitely welcome your input in my future threads about wiring/pickups/sustainer/piezo/killswitch/splitter in a nice and fashionable way
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 11, 2013 23:35:53 GMT -5
Researches are going on the right direction: here it seems that the HipShot Extender is installed on Schaller tuning gear, right? This plus a Trem-setter seems to do the trick perfectly!!
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 11, 2013 23:21:49 GMT -5
E to D (actually D to C in my case), this is what i which i d be able to do on stage!
Sperzel has it under the name D-thing Tuner
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 11, 2013 23:10:31 GMT -5
Thanks Cyn1 - german precision in your answer too.
So these are the one you recommend: nice indeed. I dont have any locking-tuner on any of my guitar, is that top-mount thing a real advancement? It seems i can even have the Top in chrome in case that black metal top happens to be too obvious.
They are on the pricey side, but i suppose there s a reason for that. Just for the sake of it, what would you think of Sperzel or Gotoh or Hipshot?
Also, if i want to be precise, i d have to order them directly from Germany (in Euro) or there s a cheaper way around?
In listing all the qualities i d like to have: switching to drop D - regular would be super nice. I know Hipshot has a device called Extender for this - to be installed on the tuning gear itself i guess - though not cheap either (about US$100). I m gonna see if Schaller offers that too...or i might just stick to manual tuning (time consuming on stage though...). (that ll probably ask for some sort of Tremol-no of some sort under the floating vibrato-bridge, but this belongs to another thread maybe..)
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 11, 2013 21:26:54 GMT -5
Hey Cyn1, you said
I want good locking tuner, light and tight, in chrome finish, and wouldnt love anything more than going for the best: which model do you recommend?
Schaller.com is of very poor help (?), and i cannot seem to find any Schaller locking tuners in real Chrome.
To each his own, but that brushed chrome of whatever it s called, well it s not my taste - and now that i ve ordered a chrome X-bridge, i prevents me from making the guitar look like a macbook or a fridge-doorknob..
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 10, 2013 1:31:27 GMT -5
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 10, 2013 1:19:05 GMT -5
Indeed, little info online, no sample at stores, confusing pictures..
I m wishing for a classic threaded arm - on my guitars, the bar is firm and precise, yet loose enough to get out of the way if needed.
Also it stays on the guitar at all time, even in the case/gig bag: never had any problem, and more than that, never lost any - i m always impressed by the number of guitar for sale with the mention "bar missing."
Not that many options: save the receipt..or buy something else (and save the receipt)
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 9, 2013 18:02:28 GMT -5
I m afraid you re right Cyn1, plastic bushing. My whammy bar usually hold with some plumber tape: works very well, you can ajust tension/strengh, and necessitates NO tools whatsoever (i love tools at home, but not on a gig. Plus they re heavy and get lost). A simple basic was also one of the reasons why i wanted to go for the Vintage 6 screws model. Although it maybe not that simple: look at that picture here: x-bridge, 2 poles, and apparently no plastic bushing..?
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 8, 2013 17:50:19 GMT -5
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 8, 2013 17:34:22 GMT -5
Thanks everyone for knowledgeable comments: - i now made up my mind for a 2 poles vibrato bridge. - i m going to have to fill and redrill, unavoidable.
As said, i want an integrated piezo-system, as well as a performing vibrato-bridge. I need something that s precise (wide range, stay in tune) and light-weighted, easy on the eyes (classic look, nothing too bulky)
I m about to order the LR Baggs X-Bridge Standard (2 poles + piezo), but since it exist the possibility to adapt piezo saddles to most model, i m thinking i should go for the best bridge first.
In these "order online" days, i cant see/touch this X-bridge anywhere at any local guitar shops here in NYC (GT center, Sam Ash, Main Drag Music..), and online pictures are not always accurate (frequent mismatch of Vintage and Standard pictures).
So this leaves me with questions: - does anybody know the specific vibrato-bar attach-system on the X-Bridge Standard? I personally like the old Fender system (threaded bar) as for attaching the bar.
- anybody has a Wilkinson or another good quality vibrato block on their guitars? Is it any convenient to install piezo saddles on them?
- LR Baggs X-bridge standard is about 140 USD, is there any cheaper but good quality-option?
Just double checking before ordering.
As for the nut, my preference goes for a TUSQ nut definitely (light, cheap, easier to install), but i ll keep discussing this under the proper thread.
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 8, 2013 17:06:34 GMT -5
Indeed, neck and body are from the same guitar: this is why this direction has my preference. I went through the hassle once..
Well, i m trying to find a creative way to hide the soon-to-be-useless routing because of smaller-regular-non-locking-vibrato-bridge. I was thinking about a nicely shaped flat cover between the bridge and the bottom of the guitar (where the straplock pin is), probably looking like a faux-tailpiece or something. Then i thought that i could even use a hollow cover to create the same faux-tailpiece trick, but this way i d have extra room under this cover for something: either the sustainer board, or the x-bridge preamp, or simply the battery.
No, definitely not, if i do a pool that ll be to accomodate a middle single coil pickup (so far, i m planning the sustainer-driver on the neck and a humbucker on the bridge).
This is a good point Cyn1, the guitar strung! Although i m going to need a main front pickguard anyway to accommodate 3 pickups. I m foreseeing the toggle kill-switch on the lower horn - most ergonomic location i can think of, although i like it around the volume/tone knobs too.
I fixed the crack with titebond3 and syringe (it took 3 Insulin Syringes 30 gauge 5/16" length), seems to be sturdy now.
I received a sustainer yesterday (FSK101) and did a quick out-of-body-installation to try it, works fine.
As for having this ready for the tour, i think it might be possible to do a "test" version, with just the sustainer and a non-locking system. If it s satisfying, then i ll go for the full thing, with possible sanding/painting.
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 5, 2013 15:58:14 GMT -5
I thought so too, that s why i was surprised that it came with a shim (sorry for spelling) that was WAY to thick. In my naive mind, i thought at a FloydRose/Kahler locking nut was one-size piece of metal, and therefore that the Ebanol nut would just fit right in with minor adjustment.
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 5, 2013 15:52:14 GMT -5
Definitely sitar-sounding E and B The angle is flat as one can see I do not mind string trees anyway - with some HB pencil graphite treatment, they dont seem to put my strat out of tune - it s just more stuff to buy and install.
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 5, 2013 15:35:49 GMT -5
Cool, now we re talking. Definitely Basswood then. This is actually an HM Strat from the 80s and this model came with that tele-pickguard and slanted LaceSensor single coil. I measure 25'5" on the E string. The neck and the body are actually from the same Fender HM, so there are no neck-body matching issue (you cant see the headstock on the picture, but the neck is the one). On this forum, i separated them for clarity. I guess i need to order this X-Bridge and see from then. At least i now know that im going for the 2 poles system (Standard, as opposed to Vintage, which was my first preference). This phase indeed is gonna be something I never thought about front routing until last night, when i realized that the "back trem" area is gonna have to be addressed regardless. If i choose to not go for a full refinish, then i could deepen the cavity, hopefully lodge the the sustainer circuit there and get away with some custom pickguard there. That would solve a lot of problems. Interesting option yup. I not tall (5'7") and the idea of a slightly smaller-scale guitar has always been in the back of my head. What you re saying here is: Go for it, make it your dream guitar for real! :-D . I d have to consider that direction. Lately i was more into: let s just fit the beast with my dream specs (neck, pickup, vibrato), but true, that ll be interesting to go full-blast and address the size, roundup the angles, choose the color... this being said, i wanted to bring this guitar on tour this Summer on the West Coast and in Europe, so time-constraint is in my mind as well... As said, i never embarked in such a project, will i have the patience? Thanks for re-opening the idea Cynical1, still debating here...
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 4, 2013 14:58:01 GMT -5
This Ebanol nut surely looks ugly. Now about tension bars/string trees, i am puzzled the guitar didn't have them stock. Angled headstocks might get away without tension bars (or not), but strat type guitars surely need it. No tension bar/string tree/graduated post: the Kahler locking system comes with some sort of all-in-one locking-nut-string-retainer actually. You can see it better here, naked
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 4, 2013 14:30:05 GMT -5
On my quest for assembling my dream guitar, next after the neck comes the body. I want it very light, yet resonant. I want it fitted for a 24 fret-neck with a real easy access to upper register (allowing barre chords on 19th fret for instance). I want it traditional looking - strat or maybe tele style, with a pickguard and chrome hardware i guess. Also it will need to fit: - non-locking vibrato-system - probably an X-bridge standard with piezo saddles from LRBaggs - 1 humbucker - 1 single coil - 1 sustainer circuit+driver - possibly a preamp for the piezo (with volume knob?) - a kill switch - either a button or a toggle-switch a la Les Paul - a master switch selector (toggle switch or 5-position fender-style) - master volume and master tone Along with dream neck (see other threads), came this body here that i m planning on using. - It s basswood i guess, very light but very tender, hence a short crack between the neck pocket and neck-pickup cavity that i ll fix soon with titebond and syringe. - it s perfectly fitted for the 2 octave-neck (..) - it s fitted for a Kahler Spyder vibrato-bridge: this implies filing up existing holes and re-drilling (standard bridges have narrower width - only a Floyd Rose can fit existing poles, with is not my direction. - it has that routing that i m planning on hiding around and below new brigde with flat pickguard material - or using a hollow metallic cover like on early Strat, Tele, JazzBass, which could allow to be creative by lodging some electronic or battery beneath said cover (?). - some routing will be needed anyway above or below, for the extra electronic (sustainer, piezo, batteries). Maybe a pool-cavity below pickguard to allow mid-pickup. - it comes with this not so "traditional" dark deep purple look that could maybe be brighten with chromes and brighter (Ivory? light Pink? Light Green?) pickguard. I would have loved to round up these sharp angles around the body for a smoother look and feel - this would mean sanding and painting, allowing to choose the color, and have a neater bridge area - but that s maybe too much work. One question that sometimes cross my mind is: given all the butchering coming ahead, should i go... or should i find a blank body with no routing (not easy given the 2 octave neck) and start the work from there? Thoughts welcome.
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 4, 2013 0:50:06 GMT -5
Eternal question that i have to ask myself. Im at this point when i finally really want to create "my" dream guitar, and i m gathering the different parts, starting with the neck: I want it to have a 24 fret-neck (for tapping and better access to high register) I want it to have regular Fender Stratocaster look - whatever that means, something that looks "traditional". I found the perfect neck on a 1987 Fender HM: flat, wide, straight, 24 frets, strat headstock I plan to get rid of the locking nut - I tried that Ebanol nut (below) But i m not convinced: - it needs at least 1 string-retainer - the height doesnt match right away so you have to remove the included chim and make one yourself (i made mine with 1.05mm picks) - it s really ugly - it would have to be replaced by a regular nut or roller nut - i prefer regular since you dont have to attack the fingerboard at all. In both case, some woodwork awaits me to recreate the missing wood. I plan to install Fender locking tuners, probably chrome so it looks more trad. I also plan on toning down the front headstock: - either just just erasing the not-so-discreet STRAT logo and replace it by a more "accepted" FENDER Stratocaster (or Strat) one (decal?), probably white, or light grey - or by stripping down the black paint and recreate a traditional "wood" headstock This is ok right? I ve had people telling me "Dont ever erase the brand blahblah..". I m still at the stage of setting up a plan while gathering the parts, so in the meantime, i m explaining what i m about to do in case anyone had anything interesting to say about it.
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 3, 2013 21:00:30 GMT -5
I agree with that concept of sustainer "pickup" as just a driver for the system.
I just bought that FSK101 with the humbucker-sized driver though.
Yet that ll still be cool to have other options than just the obnoxious bridge pickup.
I m realizing that despite playing and tweaking guitars for over 30 years, i am still gonna have to go thru trial and errors for my "ideal" ideal guitar. So i m planning steps:
1 fixing the crack in the body
2 installing this FSK in an out-of-guitar fashion, along with the existing humbucker and Kahler Spyder vibrato bridge.
3 playing it bit in real live situation (say a small club), realizing that i could use a single coil pickup and coming up with a way to insert the existing Lace Sensor neck pickup in the middle, as a middle pickup
4 accepting the idea of never being able to resale this - but this has never been the point anyway - i sold 2 of my guitars only over all these years - and happily making the decision to make this factory-cut piece of too-tender basswood MY dream guitar, and thus to (hopefully properly) butcher it.
From then, drilling, digging a "swimming pool" into the body, below the telecaster-shaped pickguard, redrilling, etc will just flow.
That kit i m awaiting comes with no template, where to find these? (i downloaded the manual though)
Dont hate the messenger, though i m sorry to imply that there s some knowledge going on uphere regardless yup.
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 2, 2013 12:58:33 GMT -5
What more could i have been asking for? This is helping tremendously Cynical1
Go figure, but an extended look at that Blue Murder of yours made me half-guess that you might have something for the toggle switch. I m thinking push-pulls in order to avoid to have to drill the guitar, especially when i hear voices telling me not to damage a real 25 year old Fender strat. I do not particularly love them but i cant think of any better option.
No way i could accommodate these switches on that Fender body on the small telecaster pickguard (or maybe over the ugly vibrato-block recess?)
That FSK101 comes with that bulky humbucker sized driver/pickup: i tried it on that Fernandes guitar at the shop, and it really sounded empty and flat: on top of a driver, is it anything like a real pickup inside? I m wondering if i d better buy some single-sized one paired with a real single-coil, and try to figure out a system where switching to the neck pickup would select the coil, while turning the sustainer on would just bypass it. Ever tried that?
Thank you so much for your priceless experience - please dont feel flattered, it comes to most eventually, with time..
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Post by strat80hm on Jun 1, 2013 12:40:56 GMT -5
Mix Mode seems to be a mix of the 2 other modes actually: normal+harmonic. Here are some (almost) better pictures of the Sustainer board that were sent to me today (..) - any way i can connect a pot to this so that i end up with that needed Intensity post? - do the toggle-switches seem easy to replace with push-pull knobs?
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Post by strat80hm on May 31, 2013 17:58:54 GMT -5
I m with you, we want a guitar to be able to deliver some sound in any full passive mode! So you re saying that in the end, despite all the schematics and trial, there have been no way outside of this sad scheme with the Sustainer s circuit: - would you know if a Sustainiac would be more open to this option at all? Regarding that "intensity" pot, here are some (bad) pics that i received of that Sustainer circuit by the way: is this enough for you to tell? i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff469/strat80hm/IMG_20130528_211102.jpg[/img]Honestly I m not sure yet of what Mix mode is - the guitar i tried at the shop was only offering ON/OFF and Normal/Harmonic. But i ve read here and there that i was a very useful feature, very "natural sounding" (whatever that means)
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Post by strat80hm on May 30, 2013 14:37:37 GMT -5
Is it any easy/doable to:
- add a Intensity pot on a FSK101? - add a mix-mode feature? - replace the toggle swiches with push-pull pots?
I found a FSK 101 for $100U.S - it s been removed from a custom guitar it seems, it looks like a 101 and is just missing the battery compartment.
I like the Intensity feature, so i ll buy it if there s way to add it.
Thanks for input.
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Post by strat80hm on May 30, 2013 0:44:21 GMT -5
Hey Cynical1, i checked your Blue Murder: really crazy thing good to see you re into salvation too! I d love the best system: something that ll stay in tune, allows dive bombing and wide bends, yet look standard. Impregnated nut seems the way to go for me no? The crack is just along the angle, it stops at the bottom of the cavity, doesnt go any further. Basswood is very tender, i realize that on my other StratHM (that i kept stock, except for an added homemade pickguard for the look), both the holes for the strap buttons became too wide - i fixed that with titebond and picktooth, but it makes me wonder about the fragility of this essence. Good tips about heating up a bit the glue in ziplock bag: im in the City, not much animals, but a lot of elderly, thanks to whom i could get a batch of syringes for free this week! I never really rehabbed an electric guitar that necessited wood work no. I fixed cracks on my flamenco guitar, i fixed another nylon acoustic with some added pieces of wood below the top, i installed piezo systems, etc, small stuff. Dremel, circular saw, drill, heatgun.. Is this enough? Also i can probably gain access to the wood-workshop of a friend nearby who has a router. I m starting to think that i ll go for the 2 point x-bridge system, and maybe it could just accommodate the recess body: in this case, i would just have to remove the old metal insert, fill in the holes, and just drill new ones for the x-bridge (no piece of wood to glue on beforehand). Then i ll create that nice "cover" around all of this to hide the recess cavity. Does it sound reasonable thinking?
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Post by strat80hm on May 22, 2013 15:45:12 GMT -5
Thanks again for your suggestions and links, i love broadening my knowledge about what s out there. Busy session day (using my other guitars, no worry), sorry no time to thoroughly go over all the comments now, though let me quickly ad this: About the kits, extensions and other (pricey) suggestions:- beside being a DIY person and never ever having bought any brand new guitar (i would be terrified to scratch it while changing a string or what), I love the philosophy of "doing with what s already there". I m a bit like one of these Guitar Rescuers, except that my goal here is not to resuscitate/recreate the original. In this very situation, i chose this guitar because it was cheap and broken: i saw it as a perfect launchpad for my dream guitar (as said: light body, 2 octave neck). I bought it quite beaten-up - though sort of playable- off Craigslist, literally in the street in the middle of the night in a small town in Oregon while on a West Coast tour - i used a rental car to drive about 1hrs away from Portland to get it after the show. I then discovered what i bought when back at the hotel that night, and i liked it. So i absolutely intend to use this perfect neck here i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff469/strat80hm/neckblue.jpg [/img] And most likely this light body here, perfectly retro-fitted for this 24 frets neck. By the way, the mark between the bridge and pickup cavities is NOT a crack -i thought too in the hotel room, but when dismantled back home, it turned out to be just a chip, probably made with a flat screw driver. About 24 frets: - i play a lot with 2 hands/8 fingers on the neck, so i need two full octaves on a WIDE neck, which is the case. - and this is not only about the number of frets: while it is absolutely right that you can play that high E by bending, none of my 21 or 22 fret guitars offers such a full and easy access to second octave to the point that you could actually play bare-chords up-there (i dont have any flying V About free nut:It allows the Pedal-steel effect - to bend one or 2 strings only - while holding the floating vibrato-block for the other strings to stay in tune. Uneasy to do with a locking nut. Of course i tried the same effect by pressing-down the fine tuners (in a D-Tuna fashion), but it aint enough range. About the vibrato block: so far i could not put my hands on an X-Bridge, though i tried the MusicMan John Petrucci yesterday in NYC. Plenty of nice idea on this axe (it s not for me though, neck way too narrow), and i really like the way the vibrato system mix both the advantages of the classic Fender (regular nuts, no locking) with the wide action of the "2 poles" AND the discrete recess for pulling up. Not to mention the integrated piezo. My plan is in several steps: 1 - first step, fix that real crack by the neck-cavity: do i have to break the full chunk free and reinstall it with Titebond glue? I dont see how i could insert glue otherwise (syringe??) 2- if the guitar resonates enough, then i ll have to make up my mind about how to get the piezo in: - JohnH method+regular Fender vibrato bridge? - 2 poles X-bridge (Standard) slightly recessed in the body (a la MusicMan Petrucci)? - 6 screws X-bridge (Vintage), which would imply some woodwork to level at least the front-part of the routing. When this works, then only would i proceed with the rest. Welcoming thoughts/ideas. Besides, when i see the dedication and knowledge you guys here have regarding sharing/helping/advising, i m wondering if i should start a dedicated thread on this project..
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Post by strat80hm on May 20, 2013 1:37:11 GMT -5
Thanks for educated information everyone, much appreciated. Sorry for late answer, was gigging out of town. Lots of relevant points here, so i m gonna try to address them all in one. I m adding pictures too. So again, i m trying to build the perfect guitar for me. Define perfect? - light weight (basswood helps) easy on the shoulder - wide and flat fantastic 24 fret neck easy on the fingers - versatility with sounds and playing technique (single coils, humbuckers, piezo, sustainiac, killswitch, whammy bar, behind the nut bending, etc..) - non locking vibrato system (i wont need a tool box to change a string or detune) - non locking nuts (i like to bend behind the nut, though i might just remove the top parts) - it has to look "classic", this means as close as possible to a "regular Strat", or any old car - i noticed that when in "professional" situation (commercial recording session, major shows, etc), every time i show up with a guitar more or less customized, or with no famous brand sticker on it, the producers/directors usually think i didnt "take them seriously", even when the thing sounds good. But when i bring my "vintage looking" 60s reissue, it s all praises and all, regardless of how i perform that day. Bottom line: my guitar makes me eat, therefore it has to dress the part. This said, i find the "vintage old chevy look" very nice too anyway, so it s fine. - that big bulky piece of dark metal called Kahler Spyder is very good, wide action and tight tuning (when clamped), but it s a pain to use it on a daily basis. By the way it works with regular springs. You guys mentioned "roller saddle", not so sure what you mean by that. - On the other hand i love the vintage block on my 60s reissue (Chris Rea model), light yet precise, set floating, on which i can do all the tricks with great tuning stability (thank to graphite from HB pencil at nuts and bridge). If it s too much work/dough to replace this Kahler, worst case scenario, i ll adapt some piezo saddles - so long for the real vintage look. - getting another body already routed for classic vibrato block is an idea too, provided it s doable to adapt my 24 fret neck to it. - the existing holes/poles distance do not match any other system (BladeRunner, Wilkinson..), to the exception of the Floyd! Therefore, this is gonna require woodwork. I have access to the tools (mainly a router) if so, and I plan to hide the recessed body with a cache made of pickguard material, and shaped like some old car part, or even adapt a telecaster-type bridge cache, thus keeping a respectable oldie look. - it s seems that 6 screws would be more sturdy than 2 poles, since the distance between the vibrato bridge and pickup is small, and the wood (basswood i think, unless it s alder?) is quite tender. But i m still debating on this one, thus this thread. There already is a crack in between the neck pickup cavity and the neck (see below), hopefully i can fix that easy.. - the Lr Baggs X-bridge is 120 US dollars, while piezo saddles (graphtech) would be about 220 USD, provided they fit the Kahler Spyder. Super Vee is nice but not cheap.. - I checked with interest JohnH solution -I build a couple of "stompbox" with piezo elements from buzzers, and they sound ok, sometimes great with a good EQ- quite interesting direction indeed. From the samples provided, i cant really say that i love the sound though. Similarly, there s quite a sound difference between the Lr Baggs and the Fishman (see . - there s also gonna be the question of the color: the basswood doesnt really look super nice, so i was planning on keeping that deep Purple and make it look more happy with some brighter pickguard (faded white? tortoise? pink? kaki?) - the budget is a good question too: i buy everything second-hand, and i m much a DIY person, fixing everything myself from guitar to bike to clothes to computers to food to pedalboards to furnitures to house and plants. On the other hand, i never had to take a job outside of playing guitar, recording, touring, even did Broadway shows (for the experience, 1 year, loved it). Thus i m thinking "Hey, if you re gonna finally go for your perfect guitar, dont be cheap, it s your daily tool". I m debating between "getting it for as cheap as possible" or "paying what it takes" (for the main crucial parts that is). However, i never paid more than 900 USD for any of my 20 guitars & basses - and i have good ones from Fender, Gibson, MusicMan, Yamaha, Epiphone, Ibanez, LaPatrie... So i could state that this perfect guitar could cost up to $900USD max. Since i already paid 200 for the guitar, so i d have 700 more for instance. Hopefully if i can get away for less..) From all your comments and suggestions, i have new ideas/possibilities: - new body VS. old body+woodwork? - basic vibrato block a la Fender with home made piezo system VS. X-bridge? - home made sustainer system VS. sustainiac? I am definitely open to your relevant questions, brilliant ideas and imaginative suggestions, always. Thank you very much, incredible forum really!
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