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Post by ashcatlt on Dec 15, 2021 15:49:55 GMT -5
...starting with ashcatlt all the way back in 2007. However, the diagram in his post is history... Just to say that I did not make this up. My post may have been the first you found, but I'm sure I got the inspiration from around here somewhere, and I doubt I was actually the first to implement it. Sorry about the images. We've been through some things. I probably do have a lot of those floating around somewhere, and trying to sort at least some of them out has been on "the list" for a while, but that list keeps getting longer, and this particular project never really seems to get any closer to the top... I will mention that I have both intra- and inter-pickup broadbucker available on a few of my guitars, and honestly never really use them. There certainly is more low end than a single and more top end than an HB, but in my experience, the two don't really end up meshing very well. I've never done much in the way of science to figure out what's going on. It always sounds feels unbalanced and unnatural. Part of me wonders if there isn't some sort of mid scoop happening, but whatever. Course, then, I don't much mind the sound of my split HBs as it is. I'm no kind of snob and really tend to prefer HBs anyway, but when I do want that brighter sound, I just go for the full split or a parallel combination.
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Post by ashcatlt on Dec 7, 2021 18:03:06 GMT -5
sumgai - When I was a kid, the pedals to have were the “bear trap” style. You never had to worry about your shoe slipping off, though they super sucked for riding barefoot.
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Post by ashcatlt on Dec 6, 2021 19:55:28 GMT -5
Oh yeah that was fun, thanks!
And thanks for listening to my mess. That one was written for a birthday basement show that we couldn’t play. Name all the songs I referenced and you might win...something... The Pat Benetar one doesn’t count though because I didn’t know that was a thing until after.
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Post by ashcatlt on Nov 21, 2021 11:08:30 GMT -5
...and the bottom ug of the push/pull attached to either the black wire of the HB or to the yellow output, either way. I think it has to go to the black wire otherwise the V pot will act funny when the switch is engaged. I don’t think stevewf was really wrong. If you disconnect that gray wire from the frame ground, so that it is only connected to the switch lugs, you can move the now free end to where the black wire is and it’ll work fine. Like if it’s already soldered in, it doesn’t need to be removed completely. Since these aren’t actually wires by just colored lines on a screen, the “artist” can I guess do what they need to. Maybe pick a new color to avoid confusion? I’m still not actually sold on the 4-way wiring. Doesn’t look right to me.
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Post by ashcatlt on Nov 20, 2021 10:55:14 GMT -5
My reply was going to be about the same as yours except much more brief and probably less helpful. I don’t love the term “inside out” because there’s two ways to do that, and the most intuitive way (like you’d do with a shirt) will leave the whole thing upside down. “Restack” I think is less ambiguous. But I guess I already know wtf we’re talking about... I’d usually go for the “dirty” version because it’s just less messing around in general. Other people worry about the shorted coil hanging from hot, but I ain’t scared.
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Post by ashcatlt on Nov 7, 2021 19:41:58 GMT -5
Wait what's the question? In bridge only position, it only sees the V and T pots. In B+M, both B and M see that resistor parallel to the V and T pots. In M only, the M sees the resistor parallel to the V and T. In B+N, both pickups see both resistors in parallel with each other AND the V and T. In N only, the N sees its resistor parallel the V and T. We're back in that situation where anything parallel to anything is also parallel to everything that is parallel to that thing. I mean, put it together and see if you like it, I guess, but...
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Post by ashcatlt on Nov 6, 2021 11:18:20 GMT -5
...but because of the Volume the signal cant travel back down the other Tone Control Does sort of depend on how those controls are wired (modern/50s), but either way also depends on the setting of said V pot. The series part of the V pot (when not at 10) can help isolate the one pickup from the other T pot the same as the resistors that sumgai and I were babbling about. That, though, does illustrate the problem with that approach. In fact, that series resistance does a few things: Reduces overall output, leading to worse signal/noise ratio. Reduces the cutoff frequency of the LPF formed by the cable capacitance. Isolates the pickups from each other’s inductance. TBH it’s a bit too early in the day for me to work out how that affects tone, but I feel like it should. So basically, installing those resistors is likely to have a bigger impact on tone than you are actually trying to achieve, and quite possibly in the wrong direction.
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Post by ashcatlt on Nov 4, 2021 21:28:25 GMT -5
Can happen to the best of us. I’m sorry it took so long to get to this simple answer.
When you touch things like that which are supposed to be grounded, any noise in the circuit should actually get quieter. If it wasn’t properly grounded, it might get a little louder, but more often I think it would kind of just not make any difference. If it gets significantly louder, that very often means you’re actually touching the jack tip rather than its sleeve.
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Post by ashcatlt on Nov 4, 2021 14:50:01 GMT -5
We’re absolutely sure we haven’t accidentally wired the jack backwards?
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Post by ashcatlt on Nov 3, 2021 21:54:20 GMT -5
With this switch, the order is arbitrary and you can really swap it around any way that makes sense to you, if you're careful. That part that sort of bugs me is that it leaves the neck hanging from hot when it's not selected. sumgai's version shows how to fix that, too, though.
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Post by ashcatlt on Nov 3, 2021 21:41:04 GMT -5
There's nothing to be done on that T pot thing. Any pickup selected will be affected by any tone pot selected in any given position because that's just how that works. We have been knowing this.
Well, ok actually we could get some independence of the T pots by adding some isolating resistors into the equation, but that's going to have much worse effects on tone than just realizing that every Tone pot on a parallel-wired guitar is actually Master Tone in a position where it is active at all.
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 28, 2021 12:16:35 GMT -5
Edit: No, that’s worse! Didn’t work at all like I thought, and I hit Post rather than Preview. Give me a minute to see if I can fix it. I think that’s better. Is that better? Looks better on my phone... N/C | Resistor to bottom of pup Top of pup + cap | “Series link“ cap + hot output | N/C
Does that format help? It’s a little more like a picture. Try to draw it out. Even just on a napkin or whatever. Post it and we’ll let you know what (if anything) needs to change. At least one of us will learn something and gain a little more confidence.
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 27, 2021 19:27:27 GMT -5
This is maybe not exactly what you want, but in my SHS (Squier mini-Strat with a rail in the middle), I wired it with a pair of 5-way rotaries and a few mini goggles. Basically, each rotary is for one of the singles and it’s hum-cancelling counterpart from the humbucker, giving one coil both parallel both series other coil neither coil Then one toggle selects series/parallel between those rotaries, another flips relative polarity between the two sets, and the other is a kill switch because the “neither” positions are open rather than shorted, so that the cable would be hanging in the cosmic wind but also in case I want to get all Morelo with it.
This does give me every meaningful combination of the 4 coils (including the HB OoP with itself as above), and makes sense to me, but it sometimes takes a few moves to get from one setting to another, and of course doesn’t have V or T controls cause the rotaries take their spots.
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 20, 2021 15:41:28 GMT -5
Yeah like I said the small cap literally just kills treble any time that thing is connect. It’s not helping anything be “more gradual”. It’s just making it darker overall.
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 19, 2021 18:04:44 GMT -5
I mean the small cap is just across the output (or I guess pickup? depends how the V pot is wired) always and could be placed in several other places to accomplish exactly the same thing. Then this is just any old T control. I’m not super clear on how you intend to implement this as bass cut, so it’s tough to say how that might work out.
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 9, 2021 12:37:57 GMT -5
This whole thing is only really necessary if the coils themselves are too similar to be told apart reliably by measurement, and even then most of the time only for more complex wirings. With fairly typical pickup set that are deliberately mismatched, we can usually figure it out as long as we know the DC resistance of each.
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 2, 2021 15:59:59 GMT -5
Also, I wanted to post this the other day, but my phone went stupid:
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 2, 2021 15:57:59 GMT -5
Yeah I don’t whammy much. My favorite guitars are hard tails.
Every Strat I’ve owned since 93 I’ve disabled the term entirely so that I could, like, tune it at all ever.
I was using the trem on my (Jag/JM-style) baritone but kind of only for noise, but then I lost the bar.
I put a Bigsby kind of thing on a 335 copy, but it just plain does not return to proper tuning. It’s a great guitar and super playable, but if I touch that bar at all, it’s not in tune anymore. I can kind of “jiggle the handle” to get it back, but if you’re actually playing things, that’s just not practical.
I’ve actually sort of appreciated the Floyds I’ve played. Yes it’s a mess to even change a single string, but once they’re set up properly (and finally tuned...) they kind of just work.
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 1, 2021 20:38:34 GMT -5
Yeah. TBH I don’t really have trouble with it (aside from missing the wiggle stick). It’s not actually my guitar. Belongs to a friend, and he just can’t seem to play it. I had it once and set it up to stop popping strings out of the saddles and frankly it was perfectly playable. Gave it back to him and he pretty much immediately complained it was fretting out and unplayable again. When I got it back, it was in fact all messed up again. He doesn’t even know about the main adjustment screws, but somehow they had ended up totally bottomed out again. Course he did have it tuned way high, which I’m sure doesn’t help, but shouldn’t have messed up the bridge like that. I set it back up and have been playing it quite a bit without any trouble. He’s gonna have his hands on it again tonight, though, so I’m sure it’ll be all F’ed up again by morning. :/
Edit - Also I actually did go to our local Music Go Round to try to buy a bar for it, but dude was all like “Is it an American Jag, or...”, and I didn’t know, and he didn’t really seem to actually know what was going on, trying to show me bars for a Floyd and explain about different sizes, so I left empty handed. Looked around my house for anything else that would fit in the hole, and came up with this.
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 1, 2021 16:37:19 GMT -5
Deadbolt syle! Does anyone know that band? Awesome band from CA.
Checked them out today a little bit. Kinda cool, actually. I had a goth/country band a while back, and I while we sounded nothing like that, it gave me the same kinda vibe. cynical1 - I. HATE. THIS. BRIDGE.
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Post by ashcatlt on Sept 27, 2021 16:21:47 GMT -5
For this one thing, I just needed to do a couple of dives, but I did experiment with hooking my elbow around it while strumming to get something like that MBV warble thing. It’s not particularly comfortable.
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Post by ashcatlt on Sept 25, 2021 19:56:04 GMT -5
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Post by ashcatlt on Sept 17, 2021 19:06:09 GMT -5
I don't think I've ever bumped into the toggle switch on this guitar, though. My right hand moves from close to the bridge to up by the neck kind of based on what I think I need at the time, so pretty much no switch reasonable switch placement is totally safe. LPs tend to be worse than most, though, I guess because when I’m really flailing away big fast loud strums, it tends to be more up that way. Been playing a Jaguar lately, and the fact that pushing the slide switches toward the floor (way too easy to accidentally do) causes it to go silent really kinda sucks. Do you have the series option, or maybe out of phase? Or are these two wire pickups where the shield shares one of the signal wires permanently?
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Post by ashcatlt on Sept 17, 2021 18:52:35 GMT -5
Of course yes nothing gets to the jack sleeve except via the back of the V pot, and that Tone cap relies on the control plate (and two different pots not coming loose) to get it there, which I’d prefer not to do. As long as those connections are actually good and secure, though, it’s probably not the issue. Unless whatever you’re plugging the guitar into is leaking DC, the popping is either a quick temporary disconnect in the middle of the switching action or just the simple fact that the signal is making a very sudden jump in volume when it’s switched. Going from a single pickup to a series combination should just about double the output instantaneously, and switching to a parallel would cause a halving, but also a very sudden addition of about an octave’s worth of extra top end. These are rather large jumps, and if they happen fast enough will look a lot like a step function and could sound a lot like a click or pop. Unfortunately there aren’t many good ways to stop that in a passive system like this. A low pass filter might slow down the jump enough that it doesn’t sound like a pop, but it would also probably ruin your tone. You could just make sure that you only switch when the string motion is at a zero crossing. Mostly you just have to learn to live with it. Sorry.
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Post by ashcatlt on Sept 16, 2021 16:49:23 GMT -5
In my LP, I replaced the toggle with a DP5T rotary wired basically like a Baja Tele but with an off position. Put one of those knurled steel tele knobs on it. Now when I accidentally hit it, instead of an unwanted tone change I just get pain and maybe blood.
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Post by ashcatlt on Sept 14, 2021 17:46:36 GMT -5
I want this to be one of those “Effects Pedals Under $30” memes!
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Post by ashcatlt on Sept 10, 2021 11:15:21 GMT -5
Well it’s not a bandpass but a resonant lowpass. The only thing limiting the low end coming through is the coupling capacitors which really should be big enough to let the lowest frequencies from a guitar pass through. You could make them bigger without hurting much.
But now your title says you want it to be a highpass, which would cut low end, but then your post says you want to allow the low frequencies through, which it already does, so I’m not sure what you’re really hoping for. Converting this circuit to an actual highpass is not trivial and would pretty much mean just totally rebuilding the thing.
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Post by ashcatlt on Sept 8, 2021 21:11:14 GMT -5
DPDT On/On wired like so:
N/C | Resistor to bottom wire of pickup Top wire of pickup + one end of cap | “Series link“ of pickup Other end of cap + hot output | N/C
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Post by ashcatlt on Sept 4, 2021 14:56:36 GMT -5
I bought this same soldering iron a while ago but in a cute little tackle box with some other useful stuff like solder wick and sucker, crappy electrical tape, halfway decent solder... I actually held off using it for a while mostly just to ring every dollar out of my previous one, but I recently busted it out and it certainly does seem to work. I don’t do anything near every day use, but I also do nothing like basic care and maintenance, so...
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Post by ashcatlt on Sept 3, 2021 19:58:00 GMT -5
Apparently it is backwards at this point... Not the kind of "backwards" I meant. You've got that 50s tone wiring thing happening, but from the most recent picture, it looks like the connection to the jack is on the wiper, like it's supposed to. This way, when you turn it all the way down, the jack itself is shorted, and no sound can happen. On a guitar with two V pots like an LP or SG, if those pots short the output when turned down, then turning down one of the V pots will silence both that position on the switch and the middle (both) position. Some people don't like that, so they swap the wiring around so that it shorts the pickup itself, but leaves the jack (and the cable to which it's connected) floating in the cosmic wind, which can be a lot noisier.
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