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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 5, 2012 17:46:08 GMT -5
I'd have to see diagrams to be able to tell if there is something peculiar about what you are doing. But it would seem B>N should be identical to N>B. your saying a tele bridge into neck is going to sound the same as neck into tele bridge? i'll mock up a drawing when the patio beer works its way through... Here's a marked up copy from the T-riffic tele wiring the order is N, N+B, N>B, B>-N, B you could wire this direct with the the stock volume/tone pot, add a tone pot to each pup's positive/hot, add a cap in between the pups for series(red or blue wire), or if your a fan of the low cut with SOoP, replace the purple wire between tabs 2 & 4 on the top half of the switch with a cap. Worth trying?
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 5, 2012 14:02:08 GMT -5
My tele is wired up with a 5way super switch with the three standards and series B>N and B>-N. Series into neck is just a harder neck sound, OoP into neck has that nice quack sound (more energy due to string vibrations). Did series into bridge long time ago, remember it sounded really good, but the OoP was lacking in sound, so kept with the series in to neck.
Would it be a waste of time to change it to the more popular in phase series being neck into bridge (N>B)? There's and empty pole on the 5way so it would be easy to wire it in.
It has two tone pots so the N>B would have the 'Broadbucker' effect when rolling back the neck's tone pot.
There's no tone pot on the neck at B>-N but by rolling back the bridge's tone pot you can warm up the sound, almost thicken it
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 4, 2012 10:07:08 GMT -5
If you want to call it the CM mod, it'd be cool with me just reviving and old idea
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 3, 2012 9:52:46 GMT -5
Nice layout and switching arrangement, reminds me of the T-Riffic wiring.
Looking at the last diagram, if you replace the blue wire with a 0.01 cap, it'll give you a low cut/hi pass for the out of phase neck pup. Same thing you find in the 'half out of phase' wiring
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Dec 4, 2011 18:04:15 GMT -5
And with the ebony fingerboard the Feds will probably invoke the Lacey Act and confiscate the guitar in shipment...but they'll let you keep the brass and plastic nut... As of a couple of weeks ago the price was $2.11 US per pound. So, doing a rough SWAG, the body and neck are approximately 425 in 3, or around 6964.5 cm 3. The standard accepted trading weight for brass is 8.47 grams / cm 3. Running the numbers out, this puts the guitar, if it is truly sold, which is doubtful, at approximately 129.85 pounds, or 58.9 kg. So, scrap value for this guitar is right around $273.98 USD, or 204.59 EUR, or 175.66 GBP. Which is right around 1% of its asking price...so I guess the novelty is worth $24725.97 USD... HTC1 too funny, thx
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Nov 26, 2011 7:34:39 GMT -5
Was mainly looking of for the pic at first to help show what I was talking about, but agreed, turned out to be a good article. And it's true none of the compensated saddle vendors/manufacturers don't give instructions, so i had to surf to see other teles to see it.
cheers
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Nov 25, 2011 17:06:42 GMT -5
What's the price of brass by the pound? ;D
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Nov 24, 2011 11:45:05 GMT -5
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Nov 21, 2011 11:37:21 GMT -5
finally did this to my jazzmaster! Not sure but I think your E/A and the D/G saddles are backwards The way mine are set up is how I see them on others, and have no problems with the intonation Cool to see this thread still going, thought it died off
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Oct 25, 2011 12:07:25 GMT -5
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Oct 25, 2011 8:47:18 GMT -5
Guess it's only a Broadbucker if a cap is in-between the series pups. Looking at the JHLP wiring, the neck's volume pot is included with the neck's ground at the s/p switch. Which was what i was really thinking of. iirc it also lets you roll back the volume pot to 'shut it off' but leaves you with the other pup and not killing the whole sound But with the tone pot at the output, JB style. Is there any benifit to having the cap across the bridge when in series?
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Oct 25, 2011 7:22:47 GMT -5
Has anyone tried wiring a bass to Broadbucker specs, but with the bridge into neck instead? Or even a Reverse Broadbucker on a guitar?
Mainly going for series, with no pup selector. Basically when in series it would be bridge>volume>series sw>neck>volume>tone pot>out Any drawbacks? Should the inbetween cap be used or left out?
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Aug 10, 2011 18:08:20 GMT -5
You could probably apply this mod to any guitar with the same bridge Jaguar, Mustang, Jazzmaster. Like thetragichero suggested, even a Strat if you got the right bridge
After a few weeks of hunting on line to see if anyone has done this turns out a Fender Custom Shop has one, but its a through body without a trem of any type...
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Aug 10, 2011 10:13:13 GMT -5
After using the stock Bigsby steel saddles, the ones that are threaded across, tried TUSQ saddles, went back to the stock saddles until a decent replacement could be found. Wanted to see if there any brass saddles for the Bigsby rocker bridge, basically the same as the Mustang's or Jaguar's bridge. Nothing really out there for what I was looking for, until an idea hit me... use Compensated saddles in the bridge, just add three holes for the screws make them level to the four inner holes or follow the curve of the outer screw, ymmv Ordered three sets of saddles from WD Music(evilbay) for $36 Aluminum, Steel-Nickle plated and traditional Brass to cover the bases I reversed the bridge and had cut back the lip for the strings My friend with the drill press misunderstood and drill two extra holes... When I finally got it all together, was dreading the whole string height/intonation... Once I tuned it, set the height per saddle, the intonation was bang on for the first two, and the B/E saddle was only out 10 cent Trying out the aluminum on the E/A, steel for the D/G and brass for the B/E, not the usual setup. Found the E/A strings brighter with out losing the bass, the steel really added a nice gritty sparkle, and the brass gave the B/E strings that punch it was missing. Overall a nice setup and twangy sound, bridge rocks back and forth, couldn't be happier too bad i put a bridge cover on it
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Aug 4, 2011 9:14:07 GMT -5
Wiki says the L6S used a 1.8H inductor add the .01 cap and you get about 1186Hz with a 1.5H inductor, you'd need a .012 for 1186Hz , using the Woman Tone cap .015uf you get 1060Hz there's a great LC calculator over on DGB Studios under Wiring
The BC Rich Mockingbird uses a 500mH inductor with different cap values .0082@2k5Hz .047@1kHz .1@700Hz .15@600Hz .33@390Hz
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jul 29, 2011 6:48:34 GMT -5
The Volume is on the left, Tone pot on the right, but you got the rest right you can see the Treble Bleed cap/resistor combo on the left
The inductor is custom made by Cinemag, reminds me of an old wah pot... Can't find the page in TGP, but he doesn't like to boost the frequencies, hard to do with just passive comps, but rather cut the other like the Bass Cut.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jul 28, 2011 15:54:19 GMT -5
From this sitehttp://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?t=903493&page=5 from Terry himself.
i know there's an inductor in there somewhere...
Lots to tell about this pic; the deceptively simple controls allow access to an incredible array of organic, analog tones. The knobs are solid milled aluminum with rubber grip rings. The volume pot is from CTS; The black knob is the custom rotary fader from CTS (with center detent) which controls the dual function TCM FullTec filters; the mini toggle (rated for 150,000 mechanical cycles) allows for Low Pass Filter, True Bypass, or Sweet Filter..again, selecting the desired TCM FullTec funtion. The 5-way pup selector yields the familiar Stratocaster pickup selections:
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jul 28, 2011 7:29:27 GMT -5
Tried that once and the volume pot behave weird. Think Fender has a HS tele with a 500k pot and it drops a 270k resistor across it when Bridge only in selected. It totals 170k, maybe it works...
Could try to get a dual/stacked/concentric 500k/250k pot
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jul 11, 2011 10:52:14 GMT -5
You could use a rotary switch to control which tone circuit you want to use instead of leaving each one on. The Schaller tone circuit here... guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=wiring&action=display&thread=4665it has a passive type of low cut, band pass and treble cut on a rotary switch. looks like you can easily add pots to the caps for your eq'ing, even add a p/p pot to add an inductor in series with the cap and pot for a different sound.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jul 6, 2011 16:57:44 GMT -5
Could do the 'Flat Mids' mod, both 5.6n/33k the mids are flat at 5
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 23, 2011 18:19:24 GMT -5
Really like that VHOOP concept, definitely going to add that to my tele next time i get the modding itch
If you take out the OoP concept to it, it could be a variable band pass the low cut cap would have to be smaller like 5-3nf
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 19, 2011 13:14:28 GMT -5
I'm looking at the diagram and am terribly confused... it's the signal of the pickup suppose to go through the low cut cap? in the switch below, the cap connects the pup's ground to ground via the same cap, more or less behind the pickup instead of in front of
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 5, 2011 7:45:03 GMT -5
I have a cap selector in my tele, pretty useful for switching between pup combos. Used bypass,.005,.01,.02,.05,.1 and going to experiment with a 100kb tone pot, on the reasoning you have to roll the tone pot back anyway and 'step it down' to off
Could you work it into a JPLP style wiring to enhance the Broadbucking feature?
Have to agree with Bassxtreme, they need another name for a 'varitone' without an inductor
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Post by ChristoMephisto on May 31, 2011 8:15:03 GMT -5
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Post by ChristoMephisto on May 16, 2011 8:34:06 GMT -5
The first and second requests sounds like the Series/Parallel Blend Pot w/ DPDT switch. guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=modules&action=display&thread=3863Some ppl have problems with blend pot due to the taper, and some don't, you may want to go with one of the various JP LP mods instead. You won't hear much of a difference between the two coils on the neck pup also depending if it's in combo with the bridge pup.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on May 9, 2011 9:19:08 GMT -5
Pretty sure there's no faulty wiring in the building, a lot of the wall jacks only have the 2 prongs meaning the ground it tied off to the negative old school way. There is a ground wire in the basement strapped to the water pipes, so it's all up to code...
Changed over the barrels on my tele yesterday as well as swap in some Keystones pups and had no problems. thx for all your help
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Post by ChristoMephisto on May 8, 2011 7:29:14 GMT -5
So I've been lucky so far?
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Post by ChristoMephisto on May 7, 2011 20:37:30 GMT -5
No I haven't played it other places, but where I live the building is from the '30s and has no modern ground. Usually play on a JC77 and/or a Micro Cube with batteries or adapter. Yeah, if i got no noise, it ain't broken, and if it ain't broken don't fix it Was just under the impression it was dangerous, not as bad as Keith Richards at '65, but bad.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on May 7, 2011 10:15:26 GMT -5
Got a Tele with a Bigsby B5 F-logo'd and last year I changed out the metal saddles for some TUSQ white plastic like saddles in the rocker bridge. Recently been thinking of returning to the metal saddles, then it occurred to me that my strings are not grounded, along with the Bigsby itself. Usually the strings connect to ground via the saddles. Even busted out a multimeter to confirm... I have no problems with noise or hum, except for the standard 60Hz, no shocks or anything. My guitar is shielded with RF blocking tape in all the cavities and connected to ground, the Bigsby bridge itself is grounded properly but not the actual trem system Did a quick google again, and alot of people have problems when their strings are ungrounded.
So the question is it bad to have the strings ungrounded?
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Post by ChristoMephisto on May 4, 2011 7:47:49 GMT -5
Isn't that similar to the S-Tastic that has the middle pup on a separate volume? Yeah it is like the LP syndrome where turning down one kills the whole sound. Wire the pups to the middle lug instead of the outside one. Connect the outputs of the volume pots to the jack.
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