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Post by ChristoMephisto on Nov 28, 2015 7:56:53 GMT -5
Nice design. It's great how we can take a layout and tailor it to our needs and wants.
Did notice a couple things tho, in your treble bleed setup, the 15k is too low, you would need a 150. Also you may want the bass cut before the volume pot not after.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Nov 3, 2015 15:54:08 GMT -5
The link worked a few days ago. You can easily Google it. It's one .0033 for parallel, and two .0033 for series.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Oct 29, 2015 18:49:14 GMT -5
Place the bass cut between the 3 way switch and the volume pot. In the schem you provided, it the wire coming off the middle of the switch.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Oct 22, 2015 14:48:22 GMT -5
Yes an of/off/on does come in a slide switch
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Oct 21, 2015 14:54:44 GMT -5
You can combine the two low cuts onto one on/off/on switch. I've done it on my Bass VI. Using the JM Bright switch, add a second .0033 cap to where the blue wire is and the unused pole on the same side.
For the low cut to work, as the Jaguar, it has to be between the pups and the volume pot. So it'll be pups to the blade switch, to the bright switch to the volume pots. Hope that helps.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jul 10, 2015 6:13:37 GMT -5
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 4, 2015 14:58:57 GMT -5
Can't remember where I saw it, but the old Gibson used 7H inductors.
Isn't there a LRC calculator for this?
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 4, 2015 6:30:31 GMT -5
Depending on how you arrange them, you can also make a low pass or high pass. Much like a RC circuit can do both.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jan 6, 2015 7:17:11 GMT -5
Don't forget a Half out of phase switch for the neck
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Dec 7, 2014 9:36:31 GMT -5
It's for a Squier Bass VI that came stock with 1 meg pots. During the time the original was out, the used 1 meg and 250k pots. Not together, but switched from one to the other in production. When I originally asked in the first post, I decided to go with the more common pot values of 250k and 500k. Most people's eyes bug out when they hear 1 meg for volume. Unless your talking vintage Telecasters.
With a 1 meg, it's all bunched up near the end of the rotation, so can't really roll it back. With the volume pots, there would also be a large shift in frequency/loss of highs when switched to 250k from a 1 meg. Recently bought a vintage CTS stacked 1 meg pot with that wonderful 30/70 taper and now have an extra hole in my control plate. It now sounds better than the stock 1 meg pots, no off on when turning up the volume past 9. I put in an unconnected stacked pot in the old tone pot hole for now.
The switching between series and parallel would be independent of the switch between the two volume pots. I like your diagrams, I was planning on using something like your first one. It would be one of the four on the switch plate, so no extra switches to be reaching around for.
Since the Bass VI is tuned lower than a baritone and higher than any bass (due to the B-e strings) and depending on what sound you were after, either value would work and more flexible.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Dec 6, 2014 20:42:45 GMT -5
Has anyone tried switching between two different volume/tone pots on the same guitar or bass. For example from a pair of 250ks to a pair of 500k. Would be good for switching between parallel and series or get a brighter or darker sound over all.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Oct 29, 2014 5:29:52 GMT -5
That one part is going to be a switch for the middle pup where up is parallel/sc and down is series on a dpdt slide switch. The neck n bridge are on two other switches, dpdt center off, that works the same, up is parallel/sc, down is series, and middle shuts it off. I posted a wiring diagram on another thread recently 'Bass VI -series or parallel' Except I plan on changing it so it's middle into the the other pups when in series.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Oct 28, 2014 9:31:34 GMT -5
Here's the link, third one down My tablet was being difficult last night and wouldn't copy the address. In parallel mode, it's wired as a voltage divider, and in series it's a rheostat. In some middle pickup blend mods, it's wired as a rheostat. Is there a difference like with the "blending coils in series" guitarnuts2.proboards.com/thread/6762/blending-coils-seriesAs for the 1 meg pot, I had a feeling it maybe too large for certain applications, like good for parallel but too large for in series wiring. Possibly the 1 meg for parallel and a smaller one for series, or wire the middle blend as a voltage divider when in series. Has anyone tried a smaller pot when blending in parallel, ie 500k for the master and 250k for the blend? Just trying to find a good mod that uses the stacked pot beyond VTT or VVT. It's already wired in series, parallel and a coulpe hybrid s/p combos.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Oct 27, 2014 23:07:08 GMT -5
I'm looking at Hastings blender mod that switches between the middle pickup parallel with a volume pot and the middle in series with a blend, except I would like to blend the parallel into the master volume, not with it. Is a 1 meg pot too large for blending into a 1 meg volume pot? I plan on wiring it as a rheostat going to ground, but on some of the parallel blend mods I've seen the last tab isn't grounded like a regular volume pot. Those also blend the middle pickup into a master volume. I can work the switching into my wiring but was wondering if I should ground the middle blend pot like in the diagram for parallel or leave it?
I managed to find a 1 meg stacked CTS pot from '62 (from an old reel to reel) and want to use it in my Squier Bass VI, which uses two 1 meg pots, for a blend mod. Have the stacked in the front a tone at the back.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Oct 18, 2014 12:01:53 GMT -5
Here's my s/p wiring for my Bass VI. You will need to use dpdt center off for the neck and bridge pups and for the strangle switch if you want two strangle modes. The middle switch is a plain dpdt switch. The hard part is finding the two different switches with the switch tip the same height. Originally it started off as two dpdt switches that put the neck n middle pups in series and parallel. It's an old wiring mod from this forum but can't find where I got it. I added the bridge in the same way the neck switches in and out with the middle pup. With the switches up, you get all seven standard parallel options. With the middle switch and another pup switch down is series. You can also have both neck n bridge parallel into middle. When the switches are in the middle position, that pup is off. If you use a plain dpdt switch for the middle pup instead of a center off type, there are less dead spots. For the two tone strangle switch, both caps are .0033uf. Down is bypass, middle postion is the stock .0033 and up is both caps parallel for .0066uf. You could probably use any cap values to taste. The .0066 strangle sounds good for taking a bit of mud out of series and add a low end thump I find.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Oct 18, 2014 9:02:27 GMT -5
I have my Bass VI wired for series parallel and have the strangle switch still present. But I'm using dpdt center off switches to get it. Still get all the parallel combos, plus middle in series with bridge and or neck. Also two pups in series with one parallel. My strangle switch has two options. The stock .0033 and two .0033 for less bass cut. I can post it later when I get home if anyone is interested.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Oct 14, 2012 10:05:02 GMT -5
Could of just said it was a coil tap connected to the tone pot
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Sept 24, 2012 16:55:06 GMT -5
There's great schem/layout drawing you made, agreed, easy to read.
In the first layouts, you had the tone pot acting as a volume pot when the two were parallel, like the old Teles. Hopefully not reversed like the original, but acting as two individual volumes with no tone.
Guess you changed your mind and went in series instead, but how does the tone (second volume) pot parallel to the neck pickup work in position 2? Can't see there being much variation with the total resistance. Doesn't it have to be in series with the pot or am I missing something?
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 28, 2012 8:33:03 GMT -5
Sorry about that, credit goes to Deaf Eddie for the layout. Another mod for this is for Strats and other 3 coils, switch the Mid and Bridge (or Neck) around, and add a phase switch to the Mid and you got some decent tones at work. If you like your SOoP with a low cut, connect the negative of the neck to the opposite side if the 4 way, and bridge the tabs with a cap. Tried to get the HOoP with the 'neck only' p/p, but didn't happen. Got the schem from DGB Studios www.geocities.jp/dgb_studio/index_e.htmWiring>Other Mods>Triple Coil 3 The Trip Coil4 is 1) Mid>Neck 2) Mid>-Neck OoP 3) Mid 4) Mid>Bridge
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 27, 2012 19:25:07 GMT -5
Found a drawing for a 4-way switch that does more than the standard 2 pickup configuration found in tele like guitars and utilizes 3 coils/pickups. The more I looked at it deciding what pickups I would use, the more it reminded me of Newey's HB and SC Tele w/ a Std Strat switch in that it was open to options and modifications. What I like about is instead of adding switches to get series and OoP, you start of with series and series OoP on the blade switch and go from there. The diagram below is for a neck SC and a bridge HB, but it could easily be converted for neck HB and a SC bridge, or thee single coils. With this SC/HB pickup combo you get 1) HB into series with OoP SC neck 2) HB in series w/ SC neck 3) HB 4) HB split with a HB/SC combo (flip the switch) 1) HB split 2) HB 3) HB in series with SC 4) HB in series with SC OoP bridge For three coils 1) Bridge>Mid>-Neck 2) Bridge>Mid>Neck 3) Bridge>Mid 4) Bridge But then i noticed it didn't give the single coil option (neck pup in the dwg) Then noticed the neck pup is 'floating' on the blade switch. Meaning it's not connected to ground, or anything else half the time. Went with a simple neck on switch, and it turned into a neck/parallel switch instead. You need to interrupt the neck pickup before the blade switch and add it to the middle tabs on a p/p pot. Run the bottom tabs to the switch, and the top to the volume input and ground. With this p/p option, it's now 1) Neck 2) Neck 3) HB parallel w/ Neck 4) HB split parallel w/ Neck
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 25, 2012 7:48:46 GMT -5
I used some fabric like material from Laird used to block RF signals. Easy to work with, and creates contact when you layer them. Just can't solder to it. When i was shielding my tele and used a brass tack for the 'grounding screw' it ended up poking a hole through to the back As a precautionary, you may want to measure your cavity depth and body thickness. You may not even have a problem with it, but better safe than sorry.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 24, 2012 9:01:47 GMT -5
What I was saying was the address doesn't change no matter where you are on his web page. I'm using Foxfire...
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 22, 2012 17:49:03 GMT -5
If click on the 'Wiring' and then scroll down, you'll find a LC calculator, GEQ, 2 Band EQ.... he's got lot's of good stuff on that link
The only problem is if you want to show everyone a schem, you can't link it directly to the page, it always goes back to the home page. So you would have to reference it instead ie see 3S14 wiring every serious guitar nut should have that page bookmarked
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 20, 2012 15:32:38 GMT -5
Yeah, angled cause the string spacing on bass pups are wider than a guitar's.
Read the link fully and understood how it was two pups
it got me into looking to see if a simple octave divider could be built and installed, seems the octave up ones are way more simple than the dividers. Saves on carrying around an octave pedal.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 20, 2012 12:35:23 GMT -5
That's really cool project you got going there, the Horror King would be proud.
Almost looks like you're making half a vintage style Mustang bass pickup. Would one of those work, for those wanting to try, but not try winding a pickup, or do both poles have to be wrapped separately? Mount it on an angle to compensate for the string spacing...
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 13, 2012 8:59:40 GMT -5
Did some wiring diagrams for a Jag to get series/parallel options, including to either keep the 'strangle' switch or replace it. The ideas are not new, but drawn for the Jag. Don't remeber putting that much work into it, but guess i did... guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=modules&action=display&thread=5545Darkavenger's idea about the pot spliting the humbuckers is good Or you do have two humbuckers, four pots, and four switches you could wire it up as a JP LP....just sayin'
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 12, 2012 11:57:18 GMT -5
I kinda like the idea of disabling or swapping tone controls when a switch (OoP or Series/Parallel) is toggled. After reading this I came up with a scheme to select different tone controls when a S/P switch is toggled. Tried doing that, couldn't figure out any combinations with the caps I have series on my strat style 5-way and tried to work it in the OoP switch
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 12, 2012 10:25:17 GMT -5
Unusual but simple. Agreed the taper is hard to control being reversed. When it was at 10 and OoP, the C2 cap was out of the mix, could only be heard at 9 on the knob. A linear pot would work better, except I've never been fond of linear tone pots. Lifted the C2 cap and found it's a good way to get the OoP without tone. Very bright with the low cut ;D The regular tone cap is shunted and has no effect on the tone when in series from the neck pup.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 10, 2012 7:53:05 GMT -5
Really like the idea of the smaller value cap for OoP, so worked out a switching diagram that think may work, but wanted to check with the gurus first. In the down position, it operates as a normal tone pot with the pickup in phase. Tone cap value at C1 is 22n. Pull up the knob and the pickup is out of phase, with a low cut. The tone pot now works with the C2 of 6n8 or to taste. If you use a standard audio pot for tone, it's now reverse. Now having it at 10 is like the pot rolled all the way back. Roll the tone pot back to 9-8 and find the sweet spot.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 6, 2012 11:55:47 GMT -5
Took a bit, but finally got what you were saying, the tone pots has to be isolated with the pickup it's assigned to for series Like the JH's Jimmy Page guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=schem&action=display&thread=3159The neck tone pot gets wired to the 5way ss, at the pos/neg, and when its thrown into the SOoP B>-N, the tone pot gets reversed too? That might be good so the 'Broadbucking' effect is on instead of rolling back the tone pot if the tone pot was reversed. Gotta look into if that can be done...
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