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Post by ChristoMephisto on Aug 2, 2009 23:03:34 GMT -5
That sorta makes sense. I've tried series wiring with two pots, and it sounded like crap when one of the pots was rolled back. Guess thats why most series wiring doesn't involve the second volume pot, and wire it directly to the pup's negative cause they don't know this little trick of yours. I'll be able to start rewiring it first thing in the morning ;D
thx
any chance a 'free neck on' but for the bridge? That way you could have all three in parallel or bridge n neck
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Aug 2, 2009 19:44:01 GMT -5
I was planning on using a variation of the wiring schem for the Strat w/2 volume controls guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=schem&action=display&thread=3157and noticed something that didn't make sense to me. When the S/P is in parallel, the bridge's ground, volume pot and tone cap connect to hard ground. When series sw is pulled, all the above three connect to the output of the neck/mid pot (series). Shouldn't the pot and tone cap stay at hard ground and the bridge's negative connect to the output of the n/m vol. pot? Altho it might connect to ground via the n/m pot opposite side of the pot. Is this a new modern way of wiring in series? I looked at the JH's Jimmy Page to compared, and it's the same. guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=schem&action=display&thread=3159But the Gibson JPLP schem has the pot n cap to ground www.gibson.com/Files/schematics/pagewiring.gifMy variation is a seperate volume for the neck and the other for the mid/bridge, and reverse the mid/bridge connects to get N,N+B,B,B+M,M instead
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jul 4, 2009 7:26:05 GMT -5
Sub-miniature, thats what they're called. I kept looking for micro... probably scarce or not made in that size. Altho I did manage to find a SP3T on-on-on that would do the same ;D
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 30, 2009 22:31:45 GMT -5
Those sure are some crazy control plates with all those knobs and switches. Amazing what you can fit in a cavity. Where did you get those toggle switches beside the 5way? I can only find the ones that are 1/2" and measures to the edge of my plate. An on/on/on sw would clean things up on mine, to make a gibson like pup selector.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 28, 2009 14:15:51 GMT -5
I got one of those chrome control plates with flames on the end, so won't be changing that up soon. It has about 1/4" extra spacing between the knobs which should help. My neighbour/superendent has a bunch of tools, and he's the one who'll be routing out a swimming pool for me. ;D
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 28, 2009 12:16:01 GMT -5
Should be able to. This guy has a large pot, p/p and a TBX pot w/ a 5way super switch in his. Already know I'll have to open up the side a bit for the 5way unless i stick with the 5way 4 pole switch and a different wiring setup. www.xhefriguitars.com/page8.html
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 28, 2009 10:51:06 GMT -5
But then I would lose the mid/bdg series into the neck
After looking at a few teles w/ three pots, and thinking about it, I'm going to add a second p/p tone pot for the neck and a OoP option. The five standard (m,m+b,b,b>m,b>-m) parallel to the neck, series on the m/b 250k noload p/p tone pot, and neck OoP with a low cut cap on a 500k tone pot. Works out to about 27 sounds, including if I roll back one of the volumes.
Here's a weird question, if two pickups, wired indepenant, had one pup OoP and the other's volume rolled back to zero, is it still OoP?
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 28, 2009 7:24:11 GMT -5
Thats the one, too bad its no good The 5way operates the mid/bdg pups, and the p/p pot is series into the neck pup. I plan on using a Mean90 in the neck, and Keystones in the rest and wanted a separate volume controls. Sorta like the S-Tastic, but the Neck is wired direct to the jack instead. But since its on a Tele and not a Strat, I'm limited by what I can use, unless I drill and add another tone pot. Wise to say a P90 style pup in the neck w/out tone is not a good idea. Could always try the S-tastic, with a mid OoP sw
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 27, 2009 13:35:38 GMT -5
Is it possible to wire a pup to a single volume pot and have tone included? Not where you add a passive cap to the input lug for the c k wah sound, but works with the pot's rotation? Found this schem at DGB studios for a single pup/one volume where pup was wired to the middle lug, then to the output jack. The tone cap is from the old input lug to ground, and the ground is normal. (1S19) www.geocities.jp/dgb_studio/index_e.htmWould this work, are there any disadvantages? Could this be used in such wiring like S-Tastic where the mid pup is wired direct to the jack without tone? I'm planning on making a three s/c tele with a concentric volume pot, one for the neck direct to the jack, and the other for the mid/bdg and after the 5-way, one p/p tone pot. John H clarified the disadvantages of sharing the same tone pot on two volumes. Jazz bass/LP/50's style. Probably saved me from it not sounding right. If I leave the tone on the mid/bridge pot, it leaves the neck without a treble cut.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 24, 2009 16:03:06 GMT -5
Seems to work on a Jazz Bass, or a LP with independent volume control where both pups are wired to the center lug and out the end lug, and both wired '50's style' to the tone pot and to the output jack
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 23, 2009 16:20:41 GMT -5
Newey, where did that link bring you? Its for a two s/c Tele with a 3-way blade switch, standard vol/tone pots. Thought the Fat Strat was a SSH config , I'm more of a Tele/LP player. Thought dsgtrain was going to wire the s/cs up in series making it a spaced humbucker, cause he wanted a two humbucker config. Though I do like the B>M and M>N options for a three s/c
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 22, 2009 19:22:13 GMT -5
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 8, 2009 17:20:47 GMT -5
Have to try it out once my warmoth pickguard is delivered. ;D Since its going to be wired jazz bass style, with the 5 way selector working the mid n bridge pups, with the concentric volume pots before the series/parallel p/p tone pot, I'll leave the OoP for the bridge for now as I don't want to add a toggle switch between the knobs, yet.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 7, 2009 8:43:17 GMT -5
I've looked around and didn't find much on gfs mean90s for when they are out of phase. I plan on building a partscaster and using Keystone tele pups for the mid n bridge. Will be using those two in parallel or series into the neck mean 90 pup Does anyone have any opinions about mean 90s out of phase
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 6, 2009 6:29:13 GMT -5
Universal was something that popped up when I was googling about routing a telecaster. Think it's cool they still use the swimming pool term, thought universal was a new word to describe the swimming pool. Suppose once I get the pickguard from warmoth i could measure it out then work from there. Seeing as the wire routing is from the neck to the bridge, straight down, a rectangle shape sounds like the best approach. I have a old Hagstrom with a universal and you can get some neat semi-acoustic like sounds playing unplugged.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 5, 2009 16:46:35 GMT -5
Does anyone know where i can find a template for a swimming pool/universal route for a Tele body? I have a fairly new Squire body with a single coil in the neck, and want to open it up for a neck humbucker n middle tele pup. my neighbour can do the routing for me, I just have to suply the template. Found a blueprint for the Tele, but its for a s/c in the neck.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 2, 2009 4:12:03 GMT -5
Are you asking what cap to put on the phase switch for the OoP neck? I use an 0.01uf on two of my guitars with the same mod. This page here should help you a bit www.tdpri.com/wiring5wayStrat.htmscroll down to the one designed by Bill Lawrence, describes how it warms it up but thins it out a bit as you go up in cap value good luck
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Apr 25, 2009 3:04:49 GMT -5
I did this on my Squier once, added two 22k resistors from between the pups and the volume control at the switch. So when the switch was at parallel, both pups would be in series with the resistors, but not in the mix when in series. Sounded pretty good imho Down at the bottom, it explains it better
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 2, 2009 16:48:50 GMT -5
Here's a link to a site with tons of guitar schems, including plenty of Mustang diagrams. www.geocities.jp/dgb_studio/index_e.htmJust look under the drop down menu of the 'Wiring Diagrams for Guitars' I'm sure you'll be able to find the combo you're looking for
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Feb 9, 2009 17:50:04 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies. When I said to bring it up to specs, I more or less really meant I wanted to bring them up to an nice even 500k by adding some resistance to the beginning of the taper. I changed the taper by lightly scraping some of the carbon off the tracks.
Don't think its a 'no-load' pot tho. I made one of those out a p/p pot, and if there was a no-load at the volume, wouldn't the volume cut out instead?
I'm not to worried about it, just curious
thx ;D
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Feb 8, 2009 10:44:40 GMT -5
Recently replaced the volume pots in my dual humbucker (Hagstrom Swede '80) after I found out some previous owner had 250k linear volume pots with 470k Tone pots. The pots were kinda low measuring about 460k, so I took them apart to bring them up to 'specs'. Both pots were new, but when the bridge volume goes past 9.5, this boost/distortion kicks in, kinda cool i guess. I did the neck one right, as the mid point measures 100k instead of 70k, only after I did the bridge one and scraped the wrong side. Increasing the resistance at the end of the rotation instead. Can't see the 30-40k at the end could boost it soo much, then remembered I had this before. Also got a '97 Squier Tele that came with the stock pups and 500k pots, and it also had the same boost at 10. When I swapped out the pups for Keystones, there was no more boost, sorta glad to say.
Does a pot behave differently when its at full, or do pups have a resonance peak related to the amount of volume?
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jan 8, 2009 18:02:06 GMT -5
I stumbled across a similar wiring from the main Guitarnuts site about using resistors to cure the parallel blues... Was wondering about this since you mention on the first page to use the resistors only with the buffer. I'm in the midst of wiring my Hagstrom Swede (Swedish LP) with only the series and neck OoP switches. Its vintage, so I didn't want to go popping the pups and ruin them. Thank you soo much for the great diagrams that made it easier to wire mine up.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Dec 22, 2008 19:49:28 GMT -5
Always wondered why an Esquier like guitar didn't have a humbucker. Guess the parallel sound would be a thinner vs the humbucking. But why stop there, use a 5-way and throw in some out of phase options, treat it as two single coils, theres not much difference between either coil tho.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Dec 13, 2008 11:02:07 GMT -5
Seen on a couple wiring schems for various guitars from the 60's where the volume pot is wired differently. Instead of the typical input to the outer lug and out through the middle (ground is the same), the input and output wires are sharing the middle lug. Was this how some guitars were wired, did it have an effect on the sound/tone, or was it how they drew the schems back then?
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Nov 10, 2008 16:47:59 GMT -5
Back in the sixties, in a Hagstrom catalogue it read their guitars had a 'new 10 stage audio tapered volume control' From their description, and the way an audio pot behaves, it makes me think its a linear pot their talking about.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Nov 9, 2008 14:15:35 GMT -5
Yeah, it was kinda a two part question. Just thought there might be a difference with the position of the pups
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Nov 9, 2008 12:23:45 GMT -5
Is there any difference between bridge into neck and neck into bridge when wiring up pups in series? Keep in mind most like to have the 'into pup' out of phase. Is one more beefy and the other twangy?
Also, this maybe stretching it, is there a reverse mod? When you have two singles in series, and the second one is out of phase it resembles some humbuckers, with the negative leads on the ends, and the positive center. In theory these could be wired up to a phase switch so you could toggle between N>-B and B>-N Has anyone tried of heard of such a thing?
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Feb 16, 2007 7:36:36 GMT -5
Here's a site that suggests after appling the logo, lightly spray on a few coats to 'seal it' , then do the regular spraying. home.flash.net/~guitars/Fenderneck.htmlMy original logo got destroyed when the guy refinishing the neck by doing exactly what you not suppose to do...he put that green painters tape on it claimed he did it lots before...then covered it up witha poor paintjob.... long story short I have order a NOS logo from sweden, didnt have to pay for the refinishing of teh neck, which i did commend him on, good job, kinda mixed feelings tho... I'll post the instructions from the water-slide if they differ to offer more options on appling them
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Feb 11, 2008 10:01:55 GMT -5
Add a 'neck on' switch and you have all the options you asked for. Put the 5-way at mid+bdg, and flick the switch, all pups are on. If you don't want to drill a hole in your pickguard, replace a pot with a push/pull pot.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Feb 11, 2008 8:07:49 GMT -5
Yep, thats the one, just below mid on the body. Had read if it was closer to the neck, it'd be deeper sounding. Kinda limited with what can be done with this, eh?
One of my guitars(pic in profile) has a .0047 cap in parallel and it sounds great, almost like a hard treble cut compared to a rounded tone cut with a tone pot and cap.
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