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Post by ChristoMephisto on May 4, 2011 7:32:22 GMT -5
Thx Newey, you explained it better. I've messed around with series in both directions and the do sound a bit the same, but the Broadbucking config and bridge into OoP neck are both killer tones.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on May 3, 2011 13:44:33 GMT -5
My vote for #1
You mentioned you had the JP wiring, if thats bridge into neck add the 'broadbucking' which is neck into bridge both great sounding
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Apr 8, 2011 8:04:50 GMT -5
Bridge outer coil?
It's for a pair of Fender's Seth Lover HB that they made from 79-81 in the Lead Series, oversized things they are I have to modify the p'guard (en route) and route the body still...
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Apr 7, 2011 12:07:21 GMT -5
Totally not what I was trying and overlooked. It gives me dead spot with both pairs of lugs connected. But I can still get neck and parallel with the left switch tapped to ground. So that section of the switching works.
When its bridge series into OoP neck sc, was trying for the neck's inner coil OoP (grn/red), which i missed too. Does it matter which coil it is or will the outer coil be the same as the inner coil when OoP?
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Apr 6, 2011 15:23:06 GMT -5
Trying to come up with a wiring schem for 2 humbuckers 1v1t using a couple of on-on-on switches. Instead of starting with the usual N/Par/B and adding the series/par and OoP switches, I started from the 'best' combos and added from there. Started off with using hum/sc/OoP wiring and used it as Series/Bridge/SOoP being B>-N The other switch has two functions, one way it 'taps' the first switch making it Neck and Parallel twice. The other is a coil shunt for the neck pickup only to single coil. With B>N outer coil, and B>-N inner coil. Couldn't figure out how to get the neck's sc when in parallel mode with out moving it to another switch. Going to add another switch for bridge combos like hum/sc/par. The only problem is I'm not sure if the neck is shunting when in SOoP mode. Top two pairs of lugs on the left switch and the bottom two on the right. I've drawn the layout and used SD colours because it's a more familiar colour code.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Apr 1, 2011 17:44:42 GMT -5
Right on, thx When I get a chance, I'll start back on my tele and put the Keystones back in, and a 6 position rotary switch
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 24, 2011 13:46:53 GMT -5
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 24, 2011 13:37:04 GMT -5
if anyone reading this can see the diagram well enough help me add a stompbox switch to either activate or bypass it like an fx pedal doesn't the diode thing act like a tone pot meaning it parallel to the tone's path instead of in series like a pedal should 'turn off' of you disconnect the signal with your switch shown
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 21, 2011 9:28:41 GMT -5
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 16, 2011 21:07:28 GMT -5
guess it's been a while if they've changed the value of the Q-filter from 900 to 1.8 Let me know the new values, got a pair of BL Tele Keystones that needs a new home and some new wiring.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 15, 2011 10:39:03 GMT -5
What are you planning on using the dual pots for? Wanted to build one of these instead of in my guitar alexplorer.net/guitar/projects/jazz-box.htmlhe suggests a 50k pot to vary the effect, but he's not using a 3H in a bass. good luck
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 14, 2011 21:07:59 GMT -5
A little confusing, but it sounds like they are referring to what happens with the highs that are bled to ground. And with audio pots, half the rotation is only about 30% of the value compared to a linear pot that would be 50%
Play around with both for the Vari-Q
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 14, 2011 17:01:40 GMT -5
Put a 180k resistor across the outside lugs of the 250k Vari-Q pot, it makes it a 104k pot.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 14, 2011 11:32:31 GMT -5
Was thinking about this, if the pup cuts out at ten on the pot, would there be a volume change like going from parallel to a single pup with a pup selector switch? With a coil tap with a tone pot its different, wouldn't it better if the pup cuts out when you roll the volume pot all the way back?
Think you might need independent wiring on the two volume pots.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 13, 2011 9:21:03 GMT -5
There's an easier way to make a no-load pot, most pots have an opening where the ends of the rotations are, take some clear nail polish and put it on the end of the full rotation. Let it dry and you have a no-load pot, no disassembly required. The credit for that goes to someone else on this forum, can't remember his name, the avatar shows a pic of him with a solder iron over a g'tar (iirc)
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 13, 2011 8:28:53 GMT -5
Nice demo rtn, almost sounds like a wah pulled back. If you can, take measurements of your Vari-Q pot maybe you can find a range that you like and can reduce the pot value. Have you tried different cap values yet?
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 12, 2011 10:55:05 GMT -5
Yeah, newey explained it best, and it is subective to ones taste, didn't mean to stir to the pot. But like I said, give the 047 cap a try, old guitars have their own personality and sound.
Isn't there a way to wire that so the best pup, the bridge pup is on with both down, pull the bridge and its series, neck up only is parallel and both is neck only? Think i saw it on some crazy tele mod here.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 12, 2011 10:07:24 GMT -5
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 11, 2011 20:26:09 GMT -5
Glad you found all the paperwork for me Over on DGB Studios they have a LC caculator www.geocities.jp/dgb_studio/lc_calc_e.htmAlways been interested in a Q filter, which is basically a single tone Varitone. BL's Tele inductor is about 900mH(iirc), and with his schem it's a boost around 1k1Hz. Using your bass 3H inductor it's about 290Hz. You would need a smaller cap to get a higher frequency boost. See if you can use a (smaller?) linear pot to control the Q's trim pot, you should be able to nail the peakiness better and use the p/p pot to switch cap/resistor values. If possible, see if you can make the Q tone pot a 'no-load' so at one end of the rotation it's taken out of the circuit. here's more calculations of Gibsons and Blue Hawks Varitone circuit to help ya... www.rootwerx.com/music/electronics/varitone/default.htmgood luck
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 11, 2011 9:10:11 GMT -5
Isn't there suppose to be a resistor parallel to the cap on the Q tone? BL suggests 5k for the neck, 25 for the bridge, throw in a 50k pot to vary it and that may help ya.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 10, 2011 8:19:06 GMT -5
If you don't drill a hole and add a toggle switch, replace the pots with push/pulls and it will allow you to get either pup, parallel and series. Both down parallel, pull one and it's just that pup, and both pulled is series.
Does the caps look stock? I'd give them a shot after you get it wires up, they may sound good with the old pups, or crud which could explain why it keeps being handed off. Wonder how many other good guitars got put aside because of a large cap squashing the tone
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 10, 2011 8:14:25 GMT -5
If you find coil tapping useless, go with your other option, local parallel. Run some wires out of the guitar from the pup and try the different combos.
You may find humbuckers muddy with 250k pots...
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 4, 2011 12:59:49 GMT -5
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 4, 2011 10:54:59 GMT -5
Just posted this since I have a Jag as well, and have seen lots of overly complicated wiring. Using the above switching logic it cleans it up and help get what you want. guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=modules&action=display&thread=5545&page=1I like the both off OoP thing you got, maybe it could be worked in. Couple other options like a on-off-on slider switch for the neck on-off-OoP, a DP3T on-on-on toggle (get a bat wing) for the bridge for humbucker/tap/parallel, or use the bridge's tone pot for a combination tap and hum/parallel. With a p/p pot, at 10 it taps the coil, 9 and down is humbucker with normal tone, pull the pot and the pup's coils are parallel and the tone works normally. I'm still waiting for my bridge pup and mint p'guard maybe this afternoon...
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 4, 2011 9:50:33 GMT -5
Looks like the Jaguar is coming back into fashion, and most people immediately try to mod it for series and some phasing. Any guitar with four stock switches screams 'mod me' Using just the Lead circuit plate switches, it leaves the Rhythm circuit intact, or open for more mod options The first one uses the same original on-off switches and replaces the bass cut for series/parallel. This is in case you don't feel like replacing the switches and find the bass cut useless. The other two use two DPDT switches and keeps the bass cut. The bass cut can be replaced with a phase/coil tap/local parallel if you want. The switching logic for using just 2 SPDT switches can be found on this forum (sorry, can't find it at the moment) or at www.1728.com/guitar5.htm at bottom Since it only uses one side of a DPDT switch, we have left over poles for more wiring options. I've used the same Jag wire colors and the red wires are the new added wires. Since the drawing is sideways, left is down towards the edge and right is up toward the pups. Set it up so pushing down the needed switches puts you in series. If both were up, hitting one accidentally might shut off the signal, not good. Either or both switches in the up position controls individual pups or parallel of the two. You'll have to run a separate ground for the claw of the pup that you're going series into. So neck into bridge, you reground the bridge's claw. If the pup's negative/ground is not shown, it's going to the normal ground. This one uses the same SPST switches and the basscut becomes the series/parallel. There is two dead spots when the two pup switches are opposite to the s/p switch, which makes sense. The N or B works regardless, so you could set it for 'series' and turn on one pup at it's switch. The other pup is shorted or left hanging. This one replaces the SPST for DPDT switches and keeps the stock basscut and provides series of neck into bridge to the Lead pots. Two new switches again, giving bridge into neck, but you can chose between the Lead (& basscut) or Rhythm output depending on where the Rhythm switch is. Altho the Neck has to be in the 'up position' for the regular Rhythm to work.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 2, 2011 7:10:43 GMT -5
Maybe that Binary Tree should be a bigger sticky ;D it also frees up the second side of the DPDT switch
you could add a .01uf cap to the neck's phase switch this will warm up the bottom end when OoP and provide a low cut when using neck alone.
The neck with a low cut sounds good with some distortions and fuzzies
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 1, 2011 9:18:08 GMT -5
funny enough i can read the "back of the envelope" drawing perhaps you could redraw this in a neater form for the other readers
"and when both coils are off, they would be on but out of phase" both pups out of phase, that puts them both back in phase, I only see one phase switch...
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Feb 28, 2011 18:04:08 GMT -5
I was trying to do the same think, kinda only i would keep the rhythm for the neck, nice and wooly with a 50k tone pot, and also use it for v/t control of the neck when in series a la Broadbucking and use the lead circuit for bridge, sereis/parallel and neck
The jag is a modders dream, comes with four on/on switches (three are true on/off), two volumes and two tones
you can also use on/off/on dp3t center off slide switches
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Feb 25, 2011 9:15:13 GMT -5
Or toss the Blend pot and make it two volume, one tone
No pup selector switch? Looks like your pups are always 'on' and you have to fully rotate the pot to get just one pup.
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Feb 24, 2011 9:13:05 GMT -5
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