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Post by dannyhill on Oct 19, 2012 20:25:23 GMT -5
Grrr!!!
Well, problems a plenty.
I managed to mangle the hex form of the grub nut on the tone pot knob. Not even using superglue to attach the Allen key insider to turn it.
Ideas?
I made a little card component holder up, although I think a thin metal covered card for fitting in guitar after tests would be a good idea.
The wires are stiff and so break at the thin connection ends whilst I'm testing - that slooooooowwss things down.
The middle pup is so quiet sometimes you wonder if it is on or not.
Anyway I have wired it as you drew it, I finally, but temporarily had all three working across parallel and series (before I broke another wire) but I did notice:
Series:
I get NXB in position 2, BXN in position 5.
Now, I didn't check the wiring diagram against the circuit diagram so maybe there is something wrong there as I have wired it correctly and the circuit diagram checked out ok to me. Can you check the schematic, particularly the series positions?
Cheers,
D
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Post by JohnH on Oct 20, 2012 0:01:36 GMT -5
Grrr!!! Well, problems a plenty. I managed to mangle the hex form of the grub nut on the tone pot knob. Not even using superglue to attach the Allen key insider to turn it. Ideas? I made a little card component holder up, although I think a thin metal covered card for fitting in guitar after tests would be a good idea. The wires are stiff and so break at the thin connection ends whilst I'm testing - that slooooooowwss things down. The middle pup is so quiet sometimes you wonder if it is on or not. Anyway I have wired it as you drew it, I finally, but temporarily had all three working across parallel and series (before I broke another wire) but I did notice: Series: I get NXB in position 2, BXN in position 5. Now, I didn't check the wiring diagram against the circuit diagram so maybe there is something wrong there as I have wired it correctly and the circuit diagram checked out ok to me. Can you check the schematic, particularly the series positions? Cheers, D It would be a good idea for you to check the diagram - I checked it twice. In particular, series position 2 should be all three pickups, because the poles A and B are not connected in this position. ie There should be no connections to the no 2 lugs on poles A and B, which are the ones nearest the front face of the guitar. If you can troubleshoot position2, then the others may fall into place. Could it be that the M pup is so low output that you cant hear it in the combo?. a set of resistance measuresments again might help. John |
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Post by dannyhill on Oct 20, 2012 11:12:51 GMT -5
Hi John, Fixed a few connections and got it wired as per last night. Still those combinations were they shouldn't have been though. Thinking about position 5 it seemed that the neck pickup had not been shunted out of the circuit so I checked that to see that its hot and ground sides had been connected to the ground end of the bridge pickup. Well in checking continuity around the circuit I found that basically the A pole is not connecting to any of its lugs, so that explains why there is N at series position 5. Not checked through the other connections yet but would it explain a quiet middle pup and maybe N in series instead of Nbypass? I think I cooked the insides late one night when trying to remove a solder join between two lugs. So it looks like I need to order a new switch. Doh! Plus a new concentric tone knob probably. I saw this switch: cgi.ebay.es/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321001716283Looks easier and of a higher quality. Just checking if its 4p6t or 2p12t. Or I need to buy another of what I had. Either way its a 2-3 week wait from China. Aggghhhh. Cheers, Daniel |
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Post by JohnH on Oct 20, 2012 14:33:58 GMT -5
ho Danny - ill post a link to a switch type from mouser that I used on my LP Maximiser (see truely nutzoid schemes - in the schematics aection)- its a solid unit Like this: au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/SR2921F-0206-19R0B-E9-S-W/?qs=yA6kp8fx8Y6LwlXIDnmCHA%3d%3dIts not expensive and I think they will ship to wherever you are. Need to carefully check dimensions of depth, width and shaft length however. I used two of a 5 way version on my build, which has worked with no issues for 5 years now. Whatever switch you get, will need to adapt diagram to suit where the four pole-lug positions are. The main sets of 4 x 1-6 lugs would still be the same though, thats just geometry. |
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Post by JohnH on Oct 20, 2012 15:01:05 GMT -5
see previous about the switch.
If A pole is not going, then yes it explains why N is not getting shunted out or bypassed when it should in positions 4 and 5. In position 6, A pole is shunting the M pup and it is B pole that is part bypassing N, so you might get B x M x Nbypass if A had not connected.
What I might do as a reference, is a simple sketch of the circuit as it working in each series mode to show the signal path - you ll see what I mean when Ive done it.
On the quiet M pup, when you select it in parallel mode, position 4, M only, it should be pure, and poles A and B are not active, they are all grounded or disconnected what ever position they are in, so problems at pole A would not explain it, but why don't you check resistance for the M only setting - if its a tad less than the 6k of the pup (due to the volume pot), then there's confidence that it is properly connected.
John
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Post by JohnH on Oct 20, 2012 15:25:33 GMT -5
This steps through how the series combos work, and which pole is active (A or B, identifies by * or +) is active in making each shunt required.  John |
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Post by dannyhill on Oct 20, 2012 15:31:37 GMT -5
Hi John,
The cavity is 4cm deep, the current switch is 2.2cm and I need to leave AT LEAST 1cm for the DPDT on the plate. The Mouser switch is 29.3 which leaves things too tight really.
Plus they want 20€ just for delivery.
I'll test the setup now as soon as I re-solder a couple of connections but from memory I would say that B x M x Nbypass is what I got in 6.
Signal paths would be great, I can work them out but I'm sure with your experience they come flying out pretty quick.
With regards to the middle pup, I did measure 6k last night in parallel M only. Its louder in that position than all others, but not as loud as bridge or neck on their own. In combination with others in series or parallel it goes a lot quieter. In parallel, the overall resistance of say the neck and middle or bridge and middle is 2.4k so it will be quieter. But in series should it be quieter than when on its own? I guess if it came later in the chain, closer to the hot it would be louder?
Cheers,
Daniel
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Post by dannyhill on Oct 20, 2012 19:51:22 GMT -5
 Had something although on the neck (or bridge) when I did the tap test it seemed to be noisy.  Tried to chase it down: check, switch, break, solder, solder over-run lugs join, dry to run solder off, burn the teflon on the switch, poles and lugs end up having permanent continuity. Agggghhhhhh!!! Silly O'clock and achieved nothing except more sleep deprivation. These switches are 1 or 2 shot only, after that they can get easily damaged. Gotta get it right first time around.
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Post by JohnH on Oct 20, 2012 19:57:38 GMT -5
A question that I think is worth asking:
On the pickups, do you have two wires, one from each end of the coil, plus a braid or other grounding wire? Thats what is best, but if so, sometimes one of the coil wires is connected to the ground wire at the pickup, which would mess up series or out-of-phase combos if it was N or B.
Similarly, a braid plus single wire, with braid being ground will mess with series/Oop combos if the braid is grounded.
In this design, the above does not matter for the M pup, since it has one end permanently grounded and does not have a phase switch.
In a series chain, the position in the chain makes no differene to it's output, ie whether it is at the hot end, the ground end or in the middle. But the fact that it is feeding its signal through the other pickups will take a bit off the signal in a series combo compared to a direct single pickup connection.
When in a parallel combo, say of two equal pups, the overall output may be about the same as in a single-pup setting, but each pickup is only giving half the output, (being shunted by the other pickup) so each willl sound less in tap tests
John
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Post by dannyhill on Oct 20, 2012 21:38:47 GMT -5
So, I neglected to mention, I now have no pickups in ANY position series/parallel or otherwise. I can't find the damn fault although I do know that 3 of the poles are now tied to their number one lugs. Solder join rage!
The pups have 3 wires, hot ground and shield.
I have my doubts about the middle pickup and its ground/shield not being joined. I'm sure when I've touched it sometimes I get a louder buzz than from the other two. Hold on, that means that its grounding is better right? That said, when I tried my initial Heath Robinson wiring scheme I was getting out of phase combos and series - remember these are lipsticks are are built for 'series connections'.
Thanks for the sound level info. I can only add that the middle sounds quieter in series than when in parallel/on own.
On a brighter side, its bedtime, and I just changed my Vintage LP deluxe copy's caps from polypropylene HiFis to some Mallory M 150s for a bit of 'colourisation' of the tone. I'm liking it! All works, noise at high gain equal to before.
D
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Post by dannyhill on Oct 21, 2012 7:32:54 GMT -5
Hi John,
Just ordered a new switch, its the one I posted a link to. Larger and with the poles on separate levels to the lugs it should be easier to solder and it looks sturdier too. Of course its twice the price.
I guess I should put this iteration down to experience, and be thankful that this second switch version can now be purchased, it wasn't on ebay before.
I'll let you know when I get the thing and I fire the soldering iron back up.
Thanks!
D
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Post by dannyhill on Nov 2, 2012 16:03:12 GMT -5
Hi John,
It came yesterday!
I have a 'tricky weekend' ahead of me but I will try to get it all done by Sunday night. Bit by bit.
Cheers,
D
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Post by JohnH on Nov 2, 2012 17:06:34 GMT -5
good luck - take it slowly!
Have you got good info on how the lugs are arranged on the new switch - particularly where the 1-6 lugs for one pole are divided from the 1-6 for the other pole on the same layer?
J
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Post by dannyhill on Nov 3, 2012 3:45:11 GMT -5
Take it slowly he says. Ha ha ha. Well, I wired it up last night. Broke a few connections which were just bad solder joints as opposed to broken wire ends. I also sorted out the hot connection on the pot to the jack as it was a bis sus. All wired up, need to check again later if I did it properly as I finished it late last night, yawn... But no sound, from any pup in position 6, series or parallel. Deader than a Dodo. Now it could be that I messed up on the wiring or it could be the lugs are not arranged as you have in the schematic (with the poles on separate layers under each arrangement of lugs). But it seems quite a coincidence that it is as dead as when we last spoke with the previous switch. So I suspect I have cooked the parallel/series switch - would hots and grounds joined provide no sound on any pup with tap test? So thats the first thing to change later, I have 1-2 spares. The dpdts will need changing, too much heat too many times, but in my experience unless they are physically broken it will just lead to noise. The biggest headache right now is that the switch is much bigger than the specifications provided by the seller. If I continue with this one it would mean that I will have to drill and file another slot for a dpdt between those where the neck and mop currently are. With a bit of luck the cap switch can stay where it is. So do I look for another piece of old pickguard: cut, shape and smooth; drill out, cut, smooth holes for the four switches; recover the inside with copper tape and remount the switches? I don't have a piece of pickguard to hand as far as I remember. Or do I go back and order another small 4p6t rotary switch? The old one was fine, but like the 4PDT the more you solder and re-solder eventually it will fail through heat damage and solder running etc.   We shall overcome.... EDIT: What an idiot. The total length was not defined in the description. For some reason I had that it was 2mm longer. |
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Post by JohnH on Nov 3, 2012 16:12:49 GMT -5
What a nightmare - i admire your persistence
per my last post, are you sure you know which lugs go with which pole on this new switch? Theres no guarantee that any different switches have similar arragements - if you dont get a proper diagram (the seller needs to be convicted and) you need to test with a meter. The position of the screws that clamp the switch together may or may not divide the two sets of 6 output lugs on each layer. The poles are in a different position relative to these screws than the previous switch.
And if there is any doubt about the other switches they need to be tested and confirmed.
J
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Post by dannyhill on Nov 3, 2012 17:28:08 GMT -5
"What a nightmare - i admire your persistence"
My wife doesn't. ;D
"per my last post, are you sure you know which lugs go with which pole on this new switch? "
Just checked it John, it works out that they are as before.
"And if there is any doubt about the other switches they need to be tested and confirmed."
I also check the parallel/series switch: The LH centre pair show continuity in series and parallel (expected), the pair above them show continuity in series, don't remember in parallel. I have to be careful as I also now have 3million shielding wires sticking everywhere which need to be tied up. Perhaps one of them is touching a key hot connection? Would that kill all tap sounds?
If I get time tomorrow I will replace that switch and fix 3 broken connections on the switch. I had chewed the grub screw on the upper concentric pot and had to take the drill to it! Surprised I didn't break more! My aim is to get it working. Meanwhile I need to look for a solution for the backplate. A 1.5-2mm thick piece of plastic less than 150mmx100mm that can be drilled/filed to fit switches in. Has to be something to hand somewhere. Ideas?
D
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Post by 4real on Nov 3, 2012 19:31:06 GMT -5
. A 1.5-2mm thick piece of plastic less than 150mmx100mm that can be drilled/filed to fit switches in. Has to be something to hand somewhere. Ideas? D Hi there, not been following this thread...9 pages?!?!?! Sounds like you are hacking away at this and not seen any pics, that always helps... For some 'plastic' to fix a scratchplate...My imedicate suggestions is plastic feed containers...an icecream tub lid, chinese feed, whatever. Basically you don't need strength or stiffness if you are putting it under the guard, chinese food container...hmmm To hide it ultimately, a bit of filler in holes nad perhaps a spiffy all over decal as was done in a strat project here recently (see the gallery) and all will be forgiven. But, it does sound like you are hacking away with the soldering and such, have you got some monster iron or something? All these switches and such can be fragile, especially things with a plastic body that can melt. For best results, always clean (sand) of the plating and 'grease' and oxidisation and 'tin with solder' Use wire strippers on wires, don't reuse a ratty end, and twist and again 'tin' with solder lightly. That way, when you join to parts a light touch and all teh joins with a little more solder will just flow together, be neat and shiny and reliable. Get switches first and map out how things fit. I've not tried push push pots, I've heard some are unreliable anyway. For most things, a toggle is small and reliable and gives a visual cue...but if you don't want to drill holes and such, a push pull at least has that visual reference if it is up and down. |
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Post by dannyhill on Nov 4, 2012 5:15:29 GMT -5
Hi 4 real,
Thanks for the ideas.
If you want to dip your toes in further (yikes) perhaps you could go back and re-read the first few pages.
I have to fit DPDTs on the back plate of the Dano as I don't want to drill. So the plastic has to be stiffer than you suggest plus visually ok.
The soldering iron is a regular one for electronics, with adjustable temperature. The heat damage is because I went off to early wiring the switches before checking the schematic, then I had to change it for another after we checked that one over. All along I was doing it without having the pots/main switches on a card so a lot of juggling and with the thin shielded wire I am using, a lot of join breakages.
Now we are 99% certain the schematic works but its probably that I cooked the parallel/series switch. After I fix that I need to find a new backplate as my new rotary switch (old one cooked from too much soldering/re-soldering and being small with weak and close together connections) is too big to close the plate over it with the DPDTs in as they are.
Hence the call out for ideas.
:-)
I agree with you on the soldering, but when you are using as many wires as I am with the type they are, re-using is not so trivial.
D
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Post by 4real on Nov 4, 2012 6:47:19 GMT -5
Ok...late night here, but will read a bit tomorrow, I usually can think of something...
As for killing switches, yeah I've melted a few and might well do again, especially re-using and those mini-toggle things can be a shocker for that kind of thing...and I have a thermo soldering 'pencil'...so, I know where you are coming from there...
Other's are better at the wiring logic than me, I generally can find some kind of building concept solution and make well enough decent looking solution out of bits and bobs.
Not sure if I've quite got the idea though wihtout having read much, you want to add switches without going through the scratchplate...so adding a plate to take the switches...ummm...so is there some kind of cavity for the switches to go into?
I'll read a bit tomorrow though...
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Post by dannyhill on Nov 4, 2012 6:55:47 GMT -5
Hi 4real,
Check out page 5 later when you get the chance.
There is no scratch plate.
There is a parallel/series switch, rotary pickup switch and concentric pots mounted on the front face of the hollowbody guitar (its a Dano Hodad).
In the rear there is a access to the cavity with a cover, I swapped the metal cover for a cut piece of old pickguard with dpdt slide switches.
Guitar body width 4cm, dpdt height at rear 1cm, concentric pot heights near to 3cm, new rotary switch 3.8cm, 4PDT parallel/series switch 2cm.
The rear plate needs to host 4 slide switches: neck phase, MOP, bridge phase and cap switching.
Is the mud any clearer?
D
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Post by 4real on Nov 4, 2012 16:30:58 GMT -5
Ok, ahve not read the whole thread...but did look at page 5  So, nice guitar, cool. Not sure what I am looking at above, is this a mock up or something? you want to put slide switches on the back plate, but this looks like a pretty rough back plate at best? ah...page 2  Is there enough depth there to put those switches over the controlls without shorting? I take it you want then to make a good looking replacement back plate with the switches and all that rather than hack the original? I'd be tempted to use aluminium. Check out the local harware store perhaps to see if they have small pieces of 'sheet'...I got a few ofcuts recently from a garage sale. You could do those swhich holes a lot better too, that's rough. A good vice is necessary and accurate drilling to do this well, drill press preferably. Mark as required (use a sharp point to score and perhaps rub in some pen ink to show the limes better) and drill out with a bit the width of the switch inside these 'squares' and use an approprate 'flat file' to make these things 'square'. A bit tricky, takes practice, etc... The 'real tool' for such work is something called a 'nibbler'...someone that does sheet metal work might have one...I have this one... www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=TH1768 This will cut aluminium sheet or plastic pickguard material and such, by biting off little 'squares' 1/4", a bit like using scissors. So, can cut these kinds of hole and the edges of sheet, takes a bit of practice but super neat. You'd still need to file curves and such, but it will get close from a slightly oversized sheet. I quite like aluminium, it's light and strong and effectively shielding too. If you want to pretty it up of camoflage it, you could cover with some plastic film or the like... An alternative can be plastic containers and such, you might even have some kind of thing around the house or find something 'cheap' at a $2 shop that has something flat and roughly the right thickness. Looking around my house, I see I have a little white fliptop rubbish bin in the bathroom...most of the sides are flat enough, the top is very flat and cost little at the $2 shop! When you get this wiring done, I'd strongly suggest something like some thin foam be placed in there between the switches and other controls in case of potential 'shorts' as it is going to be 'tight' at best and even if works, could be unreliable over time of the plate flexes in use and things make contact with each other by shorting out. While 'clear' might seem a bit DIY, there are some 'advantages' to this, for instance, you could print out some stiff paper to put under it with the functions of the switches. Again, there are some plastic food containers that might work for that kind of thing. Perspex is a little too brittle. If done like this too, one might stiffen up a flexy plastic with some metal supprt behind it or the like...this need not look 'pretty' as it wont be 'seen' so might be worth exploring. These things all tend to be tricky to do and so...practice, preperation and patience is required...expect to have to make a few to get anything 'perfect' as this kind of thing is ging to be tricky at best. Far easier to 'drill a hole' but I can see whey that's not desirable, nor that practical with such a small space and so many switches and such. I'd also suggest you don't attempt this kind of wiring 'inside the guitar' but take everything out and make a cardboard template, wire on that and then transfor the wiring into the guitar when you know that everything works as expected. It's going to be impossible if you are poking a hot iron in there trying to make connections and even worse to troubleshoot. Extend the pup wires if necessary to get the template well clear and in good light, perhaps even held steady in a small vice or something so you don't have to hold it, hold wires, hold the solder and guide the iron to the join...know what I mean? Hope that helps a bit...if I followed what I read so far... |
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Post by dannyhill on Nov 4, 2012 19:36:39 GMT -5
Hi 4Real,
Thanks!
The photo you enclose is of the original harness. As I may sell this one day I dont want to drill nor touch the Al back plate.
Rough backplate! Took me hours! Look, I don't have a workshop, nor work bench, vice nor would my wife let me 'industrialise' our living spaces any further. Most of my work I do on my bed, soldering and all! So my expectations are not great, but hey it isnt a 2k Gibson and you cant see the backplate most of the time!
"I take it you want then to make a good looking replacement back plate with the switches and all that rather than hack the original?"
Yep!
With my second replacement rotary switch I now cannot use my Heath-Robisnson backplate as this second switch is now too high to have a dpdt over it. Hence the need to build a 3rd backplate. Nice ideas for materials by the way! Al could be a good idea, but then I need to add a nibbler...
I paid 340€ with shipping of this second hand guitar so I don't want to go nuts on it. Already spent >50€ on switches, knobs, concentric pots, wires, screws, caps etc.
EDIT: Oh, and a 35€ RWRP middle pup.
But then, if I've spent so much so far...
I intended to put insulation tape over the dpdts to stop shorting.
The components are NOW on a template, initially they weren't. Broken wire paradise!
I have a '3rd hand' but it just kept toppling over so I don't use it.
As I said, for now I will re-wire and make sure it works. Then focus on a new backplate because although it would be cheaper to get a another 6€ smaller switch and wire that in with my ugly backplate and so everything would fit thats a another 2 week delay for delivery and will it really have enough clearance? Will it last? Will I burn it out again?
Might be better to put pup switches together over the LHS and cap switch over the RHS away from high rising components/switches underneath.
I will think about it. For now I have a massive work load on for 7 days so its academic.
EDIT: I have some 1mm white PVC I can now double up to use for a plate or some book binder card which should be easier to handle although it may not be so stable long term.
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Post by dannyhill on Nov 11, 2012 15:36:05 GMT -5
Hi John,
I finally got some time to get back to the task in hand.
After swapping the series/parallel switch and fixing a few connections all series and parallel check out - but again the middle is very quiet in all combinations except alone.
I got nothing with the MOP but that could be because of a cold solder. Fixing that now. Could well be a cooked dpdt. But no matter as I have made a new backplate with all 4 (new) DPDT switches well located. Will swap them over for the old plate when I'm satisfied with the MOP.
EDIT: MOP is working!!!
Middle pup - As I think I said before, to get a similar output level when playing I had to have the pup right up near the strings with bridge down a bit and the neck down a lot. Its got double the impedance but probably a weaker magnet (its A2 as opposed to the other two which are A5s).
What I might do is take a hair dryer and open up the old middle lipstick and make it RWRP (just turn over and slot back in apparently an then swap the leads when soldering).
What do you think?
Cheers,
Daniel
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Post by newey on Nov 11, 2012 15:53:56 GMT -5
Glad you got it working, Danny.  I think we have some instructions on how to flip a magnet around somewhere, although that may have been on a HB. Not sure on the lipstick tubes, you might search those web thingies for a tutorial. But frankly, I might be inclined to just leave well enough alone and play the doggone thing at this point . . .  |
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Post by dannyhill on Nov 11, 2012 16:38:57 GMT -5
Hi Newey, Well yes! It's working, just need to swap to the new plate, insert the components and then plug and play. Not all tonight though. :-) For the middle pup, on this pager under "Denny's humbucking lipsticks modification" you can see how the pup can be made rwrp: dennysguitars.homestead.com/DanoGuitarSchematics1.html#anchor_138By the way, is the problem that whilst my current pup is rwrp with the other two it is out of phase? Thats not possible surely? It just goes quiter when ever I add another in parallel or series. Cheers, D |
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Post by newey on Nov 11, 2012 16:45:26 GMT -5
My first thought was that it could be OOP. But I thought you had a phase switch on the middle?
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Post by dannyhill on Nov 11, 2012 17:04:21 GMT -5
Not on the middle, on the neck and bridge. But I have it wired now lead wise as when it was in the original wiring and it was humcancelling then.
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Post by JohnH on Nov 11, 2012 17:22:12 GMT -5
Many congrats on getting this beast to work - have a +1 right there! That is about the most complex passive wiring I know of. Some schemes have even more switches but few need them to be so intricately connected betwen swirches, with 12 and 28 lugs per switch!
On the hum cancelling. If you engage the middle pup with one of the others phase reveresed, the extent of hum should be the same as if you convert the M pup to RWRP and use an in-phase combo, so you can check that out. Due to there being significant differences between your pickups, you may not get full hum cancelling. That which is achieved is more likely to be effective in a parallel combo than in a series one.
As newey suggests, Id also reckom to get it all together and play it for quite a while before any more changes. With all those connections, evertytime you do something internal, it could risk tweaking something that unhooks part of it.
cheers and thanks for keeping on keeping on going at it
John
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Post by dannyhill on Nov 12, 2012 4:18:26 GMT -5
Hi John,
Thanks for the schematic!!!
With regards to hum cancellation, the original 3 pups were wound so none were rwrp with respect to the other. I bought higher impedance (double, at 6k) RWRP pup from GFS, obviously RWRP wrt to the other two they sell for bridge and neck. I had to reverse the wires on this to get hum cancelling, I remember it being very low volume and/or noisier when I had the wiring identical to the other two. Or maybe I had just soldered it bad that time?
I think tonight I will try a little experiment when I swap the back plate and dpdt switches.
What I was thinking about trying to do would be to reverse the original middle pup. Obviously before all of that I will get everything in, working and screwed down first so if still not happy later I could just open the back, de-solder the three wires of the middle pup from the backplate, remove the pup, replace and re-solder with the original middle pup.
D
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Post by dannyhill on Nov 13, 2012 20:36:07 GMT -5
Hi John,
After a longer session than expected (yawn) I have everything in and screwed down. Sounds are all there which is cool. I'm going to need to make the back plate thicker and make the screws more securing as its all too flimsy at the back. The middle pup is definitely struggling (a future project) but it does add something interesting into the mix.
Possibly too much bypass too, but that's debatable.
Whats really flumuxed me though are the serial positions. For example N+M, in parallel at high gain - quiet as a church mouse, switch to series and the mains hum is coming through loud and clear. But this is also for b+M. Bad connections on the series row of 4 connections of the parallel/series switch? Bad connection on the rotary? Is something touching a shielding wire? Is there a shield wire only fixed at one end?
Any ideas?
Either way, the back cover is staying on for a few days now!
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