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Post by b4nj0 on Aug 8, 2014 17:17:21 GMT -5
milli>micro>nano>pico>etc... These are each 1/1000 the value of the next. So 0.9H is 900 milliHenries and so 900,000 microHenries and thus 900,000,000 nanoHenries and so on and so on. IIRC. If not then I must apologise and fall on my sword!
e&oe
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Post by b4nj0 on Aug 8, 2014 1:21:17 GMT -5
You could play around with some LT700 transistor audio output transformers. They're cheap enough and quite small. Just add them in series until you get to the value that works for you. I bought a 1.5 Henry inductor from a Dutch eBay trader and I'm convinced that it's just a couple of LT700s potted in opaque resin.
e&oe
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Post by b4nj0 on Jul 18, 2014 1:18:48 GMT -5
Didn't miss it 'gai. Just a bit more circumspect these days. On another forum several years ago, I started a thread regarding the sad departure of Ravi Shankar (I think it was Ravi Shankar!!) and it turned out to be another Ravi Shankar, a film director? Not doing that again, no sir! (even if there only ever was one Johnny Winter) A sad loss indeed, I'm looking at my Firebird right now.
e&oe
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Post by b4nj0 on Jul 8, 2014 2:37:07 GMT -5
All good from 'gai. Here's some more... If your car works fine then the signal(s) must have a large vertical polarisation component. Because of this I'd go straight for a 1/4 wave vertical bang in the middle of the roof. If your roof is ferrous (ie, not aluminium) you could even modify a vehicle magmount, if only as a quick and dirty trial! (but short out / remove any loading coils and trim the whip to length. Yes I know it's drsigned to be 50 ohms but it probably wont matter?) I'm not familiar with US band plans so going along with sumgai, you'd need a single vertical rod half of the length he quoted insulated from the ground and connected to the centre of the coax. Impedance mismatch is not that critical with an RX only system like yours? (ie, any coax would probably do really.) Similarly, an impedance bump from a splice wont be too much of a concern. Absolutely do seal every external connection. Again, 'gai is spot on about dipole directionality, but I would add that one of the characteristics of the dipole is more of enormous nulls directly off the ends of the elements ( that's how we do direction finding or "fox hunts") and to all intents and purposes, the horizontal dipole is omni directional. (Did you mean a vertical dipole sumgai?) I'm well known over here for not having a TV! I use my TV mast for one of those horizontal circular folded dipoles for my FM radio. It works just fine. Coax with a good amount of braid covering the centre conductor is worth the expense IMHO. Old ham adage: if your antenna stays up over winter, it's either too small or it's too low!
73 de 'jo
G6VES / G4VRR
e&oe
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Post by b4nj0 on Jun 10, 2014 15:42:21 GMT -5
It's not a battery powered wrist watch by any chance? Seems unlikely given the symptoms, but I get regular clicking from mine if I wear it whilst handling the guitar. It's only a thought.
e&oe
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Post by b4nj0 on May 8, 2014 17:25:05 GMT -5
I used one of these blender pots on an S type bitza project. It seems to work just fine and supports what John has written. It may be considered expensive and I am very slightly wary of its small physical size. No connection with manufacturer etc. www.rothwellaudioproducts.co.uk/html/neck_adder.htmle&oe
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Post by b4nj0 on May 2, 2014 14:59:04 GMT -5
Yes I think we are. Would it be one where there is an induced voltage in the coil or one that is current fed?
e&oe
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Post by b4nj0 on May 2, 2014 1:22:46 GMT -5
The screening paint is trying to assimilate a Faraday cage. I believe that it has to be "grounded" to function as a screen. If you are using the screening paint for the pot grounds, then it must be grounded too. The washers have to go (ideally) or be replaced by grounded wires.
e&oe
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Post by b4nj0 on May 1, 2014 13:36:48 GMT -5
Shorted capacitor has to mean no treble roll off. The point regarding the grounding is on the mark though. Is the dreaded screening paint grounded because as has been written, the pots may share the same ground return. As ashcatlt said, take out the insulating washers or at least run separate ground wires to a common ground point. Has the continuity between the paint and the output jack socket ground lug been established?
e&oe
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Post by b4nj0 on Apr 27, 2014 15:03:33 GMT -5
Hi Tommy and welcome to the Nuts House!
First, you don't need any electronics know-how unless you propose to incorporate active circuitry ( eg: a pre amp or in other words any wiring that curls up its toes without at least a battery or cell driving it) I imagine that you don't mean that? I would suggest getting a cheap circuit ringer / buzzer / test lamp, and playing around with switch tag combinations (disconnected!) to get a feel for what is happening as you throw the switch.
Secondly, it's not possible to tell whether you meant a Gibson type on-on-on toggle switch, or a Fender type 1 or 2 pole / 3 way "knife blade" type of switch. Both are three way toggle switches, but very different from one another in what they can achieve.
Thirdly, did you mean being able to select all pick ups individually together with all of the possible combinations? Moreover, there are series and parallel combinations of pick ups, two at a time (or even all three) and also in-phase and out of phase combinations. I have to say that even with 2 pole push / pull switches, all that does sound on the face of it as being impossible to achieve.
While no one can promise a solution for whatever you may be thinking of, can you be any more specific about what you have in mind, and what hardware you already have to hand?
e&oe
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Post by b4nj0 on Apr 23, 2014 16:38:23 GMT -5
Single pole, N/O, non-latching? and KISS technology too...just what I need!
e&oe
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Post by b4nj0 on Apr 1, 2014 16:16:20 GMT -5
utaref's son...
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Post by b4nj0 on Mar 3, 2014 17:49:48 GMT -5
OK. Lumped constants. I get it now. I was just visualising Chesapeake and Potomac Co. 88mH coils and wandered off!
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Post by b4nj0 on Mar 2, 2014 18:38:55 GMT -5
It would be irresponsible for me to hold forth on this subject because like you I have little experience with American mains supply arrangements. It does look to me as though you ought to be ok with the proposed application. However, you need someone with specific knowledge and not just someone who has browsed Wikipedia. What I will stick my neck out and say is that you should only consider the frequency of the mains supply as of no real consequence if the proposed load is going to be substantially non- reactive, eg; induction motors. The problem here is one of transformer iron losses due to eddy currents that can lead to transformer conductor over heating and insulation breakdown. In your application, I figure you'd probably be safe. There's also the consideration of PME which may not be applicable in the USA. Without going into depth, this really affects the potential difference between neutral and earth that exists which can be a significant risk in an electric shock scenario. I'll jump ship at this point and defer to someone more qualified. Perhaps this is the wrong forum to ask? Good luck.
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Post by b4nj0 on Mar 2, 2014 17:48:46 GMT -5
Hmm, 3.8 Henry inductor. That's a big one!
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Post by b4nj0 on Feb 21, 2014 5:30:55 GMT -5
And another +1 for Rory, a major influence on my playing, but he used Teles very frequently too. I too have a 1973 Strat, I've grown to like it over the decades but I'd swap it for Rory's '61 in a heatbeat... I have 21 strung instruments so I'm kind of skirting around this discussion, but I do believe that there are many ways to appreciate art forms- whether audibly or indeed tangibly. Is it OK to name drop Danny Gatton with his Tele? (and Roy Buchanon for that matter) because I hold Danny in very high esteem, and once he let go of his Lester, there was only really his Telecaster.
e&oe...
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Post by b4nj0 on Dec 27, 2013 4:57:00 GMT -5
Welcome to the Forum! If you are only splitting down a humbucker into two single coils and selecting one of them (just like on my Yammy Pacifica 904, you would have a spare bank on the dpdt that you could use for this application, but I have to agree- why would you bother? This seems rather like focusing your mind on creating a problem rather than solving one. For myself, this would be a waste of the potential that the second pole has.
e&oe...
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Post by b4nj0 on Dec 24, 2013 15:17:01 GMT -5
All best from Pom central!
Steve.
e&oe...
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Post by b4nj0 on Dec 10, 2013 8:13:21 GMT -5
Snap the file off at the required length ( which will probably be a couple of mm longer than the available space in the largest cavity.) There's nothing to stop you from filing the top of the entrance hole a little to create a lead in and hence a longer usable file length- just so long as it will remain unseen. That way you'll have less work to do along the length of the channel too. Be a good citizen and do it using a vice to grip the file safely at the required length and cover it with some rag too for the benefit of your eyes! This works better if the wanted length of file is between the vice jaws- ie, not the length of file sticking up in the air. It will only take a gentle tap with a hammer and the rag will save the face of the hammer too. If this sounds like a solution to you, whatever you do please take care and save the bits for "next time".
e&oe...
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Post by b4nj0 on Dec 9, 2013 5:32:24 GMT -5
OT I know but... I have a (Roumanian made) flat back zook. I tune it to GDAE. Is that the correct tuning or is it a case of whatever works for you etc? I learn zook pieces from an old Theodorakis cassette tape that I bought from a trader at the top of Olympos on Cyprus about 18 years ago. Stayed with Tasos at Old Paphos. It's a small world! That tape is now on a CD and I blast it out of open car windows in UK summer time traffic jams. It makes people smile!
e&oe...
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Post by b4nj0 on Dec 9, 2013 3:09:38 GMT -5
Perhaps the delineation between the two camps is due to the string bending that goes on with electrics and the generally heavier gauge strings used on acoustics. I know that we do bend strings on an acoustic but maybe not quite so extensively? The sound changes (imho) but that's it so far as I can see and the difference is unlikely to be detected by the average beer-swilling audience! For myself, so long as the strings remain in tune and last a reasonable amount of time, either type suits me, but perhaps after a lifetime working in factories, These ears are probably not the best judge!
e&oe...
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Post by b4nj0 on Dec 9, 2013 2:27:39 GMT -5
Hi Greekdude, I used Guild electric guitar strings on an old Takamine dread for years and years (until they became unavailable) for no better reason than the fact that I found that they did not break so easily. (unfortunately, I'm an aggressive player.) I imagine that those who prefer a wound third are going to be less likely to use packs of electric guitar strings. Right now I'm using D'Addario coated acoustic strings on my Heritage Sweet 16 and it thrives on them. I guess that it's "horses for courses" or whatever floats your boat.
e&oe...
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Post by b4nj0 on Dec 3, 2013 7:25:10 GMT -5
The cableform that I was speaking of has twisted pairs. This "in theory" means that provided the currents in each conductor of a single twisted pair are in phase and of equal magnitude, they should reject anything else. Well it seems to work OK for 'phone wiring here in the UK. I have used unused wires in a 'phone system for network wiring where I live and have not experienced any cross talk (that I'm aware of...) The downside would be having to foreshorten your present lengths of pick up connection wires. Caveat: I have not tried this- it's just a suggestion.
e&oe...
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Post by b4nj0 on Dec 3, 2013 2:26:56 GMT -5
Just a left field thought, how about changing to a cableform? Here in the UK, telephone cable is really quite small in diameter and carries 8 conductors. Also, it comes as four twisted pairs which is good for the application that you have in mind. The signal levels are so low that only a solid connection at each end is necessary due to the minute micro amperes of current. After all- pick up wire is only 42 gauge...It is a reversible mod too. There are other tiny multiway cables available with even more conductors, but 4 twisted pairs seems ample to me.
e&oe...
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Post by b4nj0 on Nov 30, 2013 8:24:55 GMT -5
Mid 1960s Vox AC30. I refurbished its non standard speaker cloth, put 2 extra Vox handles and the piping and a Vox badge. I also fitted four quick release castors that I used to wheel it into the shop jn Camden, North London. They gave me £90 for it against the latest bit of kit that had benefitted from glowing reviews in the music press. Ouch. I even knew it was daft at the time but... Now I harbour resentment against peeps lucky (or sensible) enough to have held on to theirs (or wealthy enough for that matter.) I chopped it in for an Award Session 15-30 (that I still own.) They only made 400 or so of those so I really should count myself lucky. The 15-30 was even modelled (very loosely) on an AC30, even down to the cabinet volume. It was back in 1980 what we would now describe as a "boutique" amp and was hence well ahead of its time. Then there was a Wem Copycat valve driven tape echo... Then a script logo MXR Phase 100... Then a 1960s Musicmaster bass... Then I threw an Electro Harmonix Screaming Bird in the bin (trash) and I can't for the life of me think why. I also threw an early Coloursound "Supa Tonebender" fuzz pedal in the trash when distortion / overdrive pedals first came out. (I still don't "get" fuzz pedals to this day.) They were great at the time. I'm definitely missing the point on fuzz pedals, so no flame please! That's why I no longer part with anything. It's a problem, but I'm on top of it! ;<D
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Post by b4nj0 on Nov 11, 2013 14:57:26 GMT -5
Worth a look... dates back to 1992. Buzzy Feiten may have already been working on his idea back then. It'd be no good for me because I wrench alternate tunings all the time, but the likes of Vai and I believe John Suhr both rate the positive effect on improving the guitar's tuning woes. Most of us just get on with it. Jeff Beck has the Earvana product on his Strat in the Ronnie Scotts show. www.mimf.com/nutcomp/index.htmI believe that Stephen Delft emigrated to New Zealand many years ago. He was a fine luthier from the East End of London. He helped me out with problems that I had concerning my Gordon Smith, (known with good reason as the British Gibson) that I purchased following one of his really excellent, thoughtful and well reasoned reviews in the long since defunct English magazine, "International Musician and Recording World". That was back in the late 1970s. I remember he told me at the time that Elton John commisioned him to build an acoustic for Kiki Dee. Stephen was (is?) an eccentric and colourful character. Yessir, I know I've drifted OT, the link is worth a look though... Try intonating a National and you might find a regular guitar a bit of a breeze! e&oe...
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Post by b4nj0 on Nov 5, 2013 3:42:46 GMT -5
Sacrificing the middle pickup for the "Tele" N+B is a rich exchange IMO. MR's design also allows for the two tone controls to cover all pickups in a more sensible (and occasionally... "interesting") way. I don't miss the middle pick up. A second piggy back switch would allow selection of the middle pickup alone if it's really really a deal breaker and probably of more use than a phase switch. I've wired two S type guitars this way and I have recommended the design on here a couple of times. John's design looks equally interesting though!
e&oe...
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Post by b4nj0 on Oct 24, 2013 12:41:14 GMT -5
May I just add a thought regarding push-push switches that are piggy-backed onto potentiometers? If you fail to release the switch by popping it up before pulling or levering the knob off, then you will cattle-truck the latching mechanism, and I have found them impossible to repair. I have done this twice with Yamaha push-push switches.* I believe that Yamaha UK no longer sell them as spares (even at the grossly inflated Limey prices) so I'm not going to get caught out again! I realise that push-pulls are much more common, but with a tapered Fender type knob- once you have used push-push you don't want to go back. (* beer!) I hope this saves someone a similar calamity...
e&oe...
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Post by b4nj0 on Sept 28, 2013 11:14:04 GMT -5
Good point well made! As I said, enjoy the ride.
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Post by b4nj0 on Sept 28, 2013 9:46:04 GMT -5
You could confirm this level of outlay at the Warmoth (or American Guitars) website. I'll just give the following $0.02... I have a Schecter Hawaiian Koa one piece "Strat" married to a Warmoth maple neck. Schecter will not supply parts these days so out of interest, I priced it up at Warmoth and it was very much no change out of $1000 and that included the despatch costs. Too, most manufacturers are fiercely protective of their headstock profiles but not nearly so with their body shapes. I don't know the reason why that anomaly should prevail, but I don't think that Suhr would be particularly impressed with Warmoth if they consciously produced a body shape at your bidding knowing it to be of Suhr's design. Warmoth have a licence to manufacture Fender necks. I seem to recall reading that they also made some of the high end luthier bodies and necks, and Suhr may well be one of them. I imagine that they don't have a licence for Suhr though? I think that Warmoth state as such somewhere on their website. I'm not saying you shouldn't do it, I just wonder whether Warmoth would agree to the commission. It's really difficult to avoid making this sound like a lecture (or including instructions such as "understand (this or that -or whatever) which doesn't translate very well into British English. Phew!) Good luck with whatever you decide upon, you'll have a ball and there are plenty of peeps on this forum better qualified than myself to help you along the way.
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