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The 3-way pickup selector toggle switch has its output contact(s) connected to the output jack tip terminal. Its mechanical frame is connected to the output jack ring terminal, which is the wiring ground. It does not switch the ground, only the pickup output signals.


The 3-way pickup selector toggle switch has its input contacts connected to the output terminals from each volume pot.



Good job!



What lawsuit situation? If it's related to the copying of designs by the Japanese many years ago, no one cares today. If it's related to a possible safety lawsuit, I don't understand what you are saying.

""....and connected the bridge pickup straight to the volume pot Hot to Hot and Ground to the back of the Pot, just like the bridge pickup.""




Yep, standard wiring practice.



Yes, but you have to make sure that you connect EVERYTHING wrong. ;D ;D

No, a passive electric guitar develops 1 volt AC maximum. The guitar in and of itself won't shock anything (well, maybe a little if you stick the other end of the cord in your mouth, play real hard, and do the "9 volt battery tongue test").

Oh, come on, every kid tested 9 volt batteries this way.



As newey mentions, the potential shock hazard comes from an amp that has an internal failure that places high voltage on its input lead (rare), or has its chassis and hence the guitar cable shield elevated to mains potential.

The latter can occur when the wiring in the building outlets is defective. Many amps from the 50's, 60's, and perhaps later had a two terminal line (mains) cord. One wire in a U.S. outlet is at neutral potential, but the other is at full line potential. Neither should be connected to the amp chassis, but the neutral side might be thru a polarized cord (who knows who did what when).

What was often the practice was to have a switch on the amp that connected either line cord conductor to the amp chassis thru a capacitor to reduce hum. Some amps had a capacitor from both leads to the chassis.

If that capacitor(s) has failed or is excessively leaky, mains potential could be applied to the chassis, to the shield, and to your body.

One can prevent such issue by using RF (wireless). Only lightning can jump that big of a gap. ;D ;D

But, don't depend on RF to protect you in a lightning storm, use a #1 iron. Even God can't hit a #1 iron............

The best approach is to buy an outlet tester that will indicate if there are any problems. Test every outlet before you plug in to it. After all, you don't know where its been or who its been with.



Yeah, I also get a lot of requests when I sing.

P-90.

Yep, only one rail per pickup. Maybe they call it P-Rails 'cuz they want folks to buy them in sets (two rails per set of two). Or, maybe they expect them to be selling like hot cakes (Ya, them P-Rail's be going oot the door in droves, you betcha').

Or, maybe they don't understand the difference since all the other rail pickups had 'em in twos (and, there IS marketing involved).



They are somewhat costly. However, I'm of the opinion that the P-Rail is the first humbucker pickup design that is actually meaningful to use with most complex coil splitting/selecting wiring schemes. Disparity is.

And, may the tones be known. Select the "videos" link.

This is the thread I started on the P-Rail pickup.
P-Rails (or not)



The only spec that most pickup makers state is the resistance, which is just one component of impedance. It only absolutely tells one the resistance of the coil winding.

That being said, a lipstick is a low output voltage pickup and a rails type generally is a high output voltage pickup. They may well not mix well.

How are you going to fit a lipstick into the neck humbucker cavity? Is it a dual coil/tube lipstick?

The SD JB is a higher output voltage pickup and the SD Jazz is a lower output voltage pickup, but these do mix well.

If the guitar has a volume and tone for each pickup, use them!



I use audio taper for both.

There are several problems with your design.

Before I correct them I need to know what you want the volume controls to do in series.

As I had mentioned, if you look in "Fun with switches, take 1", section "E" for LP usage, you'll see how the reversed (from your perspective) LP volume wiring can be used to good effect.

Volume pot "B" remains as a master ratiometric volume pot for the series chain, but volume pot "A" just shunts (gradually shorts out) the "A" pickup.

It's difficult to do anything else without requiring the 3-way switch to also be in a specific position for series.

Jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeze.

It's a freakin' clue! #$%^%$%^&%^ it all, Sparky(s).

The bait: "I could suggest several mods which are all better because they're mine".


Oh well, I guess that he didn't take the "'bate".


;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D


Dang humans!

No, but to me it's half way to where it should be for series.


I have seen it many places. It's called the "reverse LP wiring" and is effected to prevent widespread confusion amongst the feeble-minded during 3-way switch positioning.

It is also used to reduce the product warranty returns from those that are convinced that "something" is defective (something is).


I am of the opinion that normal volume pot usage is to be avoided during series connection of two pickups in guitars with individual volume pots. This is because, if the volume pot is turned down, regardless of the wiper or end termanal connection to the selector, substantial series resistance is introduced into the signal chain.

I prefer to use volume pots in a ratiometric manner (3 terminal) in parallel and in a rheostatic manner (two terminal) in series.

See Series_Parallel Blend Pot w/ DPDT switch.

If you look in Fun with switches, take 1, section "E" for LP usage, you'll see how the reversed (from your perspective) LP volume wiring can be used to good effect. Volume pot "B" remains as a master ratiometric volume pot for the series chain, but volume pot "A" just shunts (gradually shorts out) the "A" pickup.

Rail pickups such as the SD Hot Rails are dual rail humbucking pickups and as such, have no polarity or phase to be concerned about unless spilt.



And the thin ones are most excellent as tight jar lid removers.

The duncanamps links and the ax84 links will go a long way to showing how to do this.

"Schematic" is only a different language.....

What does "no output" mean? Does it sound completely dead (circuit shorted) or do you still hear some hum (circuit open)?

Since the switch just switches in the bridge pickup regardless of the setting of the 5-way switch, it should in no way cause a loss of output signal. Something GeFooey is afoot.

Use your multi-meter* to measure the resistance at the guitar output jack. If you don't have the pick guard off, use a guitar cable and touch the leads to the unplugged other end.

Turn all pots to "10"/full on.

Record the resistance for each position of the 5-way with the push pull switch down (bridge is NOT switched in always).

Pull up the push pull pot knob (bridge IS switched in always) and record the resistance again for each position on the 5-way.

Post all 10 results. They should be around 3 to 15 K Ohms (depending on the Lace pickups used). Use the 20 K Ohm scale on your multi-meter*.


Can you post some well-focused pics of your wiring?


*If you don't have a multi-meter, go buy one. A $10 - $20 3 1/2 digit one is ok.

Working on wiring without one is akin to driving with your eyes closed; while things may go ok for a while........

Many. Under construction I have 7.



Most are rear-rout.


Using copper foil seems to be problematic especially in bodies that have a less than flat cavity bottom. Some painted ones have points sticking up.

I just found some 12" by 18" sheets of unetched 1/32" glass epoxy single-sided copper-clad PCB stock in my basement. I think that I'll use this for the cavity bottoms, especially on the rear-rout bodies. This will ensure a good non-tearing surface for soldering the cavity side foil to and for the pot shaft bushings, which will keep it in place.

Somebody once asked Cheech if he liked country music.

He asked "which country?"


I don't like today's country music, but I do like the real old stuff and bluegrass.

I got Brad Paisley's album "Play" (primarily instrumental) for Christmas. I haven't fully listened to it yet, but I do like what I hear so far.

This would be disconcerting if it had been posted by someone that had relocated based on the availability of alfalfa (for farm animals).



Just wait, you're next. ;D ;D ;D

Hmmm, maybe it's because the Tremo'Leo-No is actually a Vibrato-No.


If it is as described in the forum that Cyn linked to, maybe you should just block the vibrato and return the Tremol-No or wait for the functioning version thereof.

Oh man, I gots to agree with Cyn.

My wife's BD is the 19th of Dec. and it's a struggle to differentiate it into a separate event of its own import (which it is).

It's a somewhat somber event in that she's just a few/several/many/ain't/gonna/tell weeks older than me.

I never say it, but it's always in the air.


Have a great one (or two if'n you can swing it). And tell your wife that ChrisK sez that you definitely NEED another guitar.

They have those pesky little detail things inside like a circuit breaker and transient/over voltage protectors.


What does "a brick power supply" mean? Is the "brick method" a star topology (I know what a daisy chain topology is)?