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Post by ChrisK on Aug 2, 2009 14:00:38 GMT -5
A TBX control gives you a treble cut in one direction (CCW) and a treble "enhancement" (thru reduced resistive loading on the pickup) in the other (CW). The treble enhancement is subtle.Unfortunately, the TBX is only 1 1/2 of a true dual-gang pot. One audio taper element goes from 250K at '5" down to 0 at full CCW, but is out of circuit from ""5+" to full CW. The other element is a 1 M Ohm pot if I recall. It's usually used with a cap (well, yeah) and a fixed resistor, but there is much discussion a'web regarding the best values. Now, the pickup combinations that you are asking about are similar to the following designs; Mike Richardson wiring with phase. This uses a DPDT switch for mode selection. This is a variation of the Mike Richardson scheme. It used a 4PDT (like the S-1). The Ultimate Utah Switching SchematicHere's some of my variations on the S-1-like modes, but using only a DPDT and a standard Fender 5 position switch. 3 Single Coils and The "S-None Switch" |
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Post by ChrisK on Aug 2, 2009 9:01:57 GMT -5
I am down to three cars only.
They're all in the same city (at the moment).
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Post by ChrisK on Aug 2, 2009 9:00:46 GMT -5
Some clarification is needed.
Do you mean middle alone?
Why do you want both tones here? It's a super switch (4P5T).
Why do you want both tones here (I assume that these are in parallel)?
Any two or more pickups are phased. Is this in-phase (the individual pickup output signals add) or out-of phase (the individual pickup output signals subtract)? Why do you want both tones here
Is this the Parallel out-of-Phase (PooP - it can sound like this). Why do you want both tones here?
Are these tone controls sharing a common tone capacitor?
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Post by ChrisK on Aug 2, 2009 8:45:59 GMT -5
As long as you keep this in mind, and connect the guitar signal returns to the amp signal return, you should be fine. The "Blocking" CapacitorAlso keep in mind that when the bridge and neck pickups are selected, they are in phase and will not be hum canceling. When the bridge and neck pickups are selected, they are in phase and will not be hum canceling, and the middle will be RWRP, but the combo will not be fully hum canceling (two against one). Good shielding is..... |
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Post by ChrisK on Aug 1, 2009 23:53:45 GMT -5
Gee, I pick up my (well, my wife's) new AWD SUV on Monday under the CARS program.
I junked a 1993 GMC Sierra 4WD (16 combined MPG) w/160K+ miles for a $4,500 discount. I got an additional discount as well.
I would have sold the truck this fall anyway, so I was indeed "stimulated" to remove it from the road.
Since it was a "truck" to "truck" transaction, I only needed 5 miles in MPG improvement to qualify.
My wife's Highlander has 150K+ on it, so I'll sell it outright later.
Free money is, well, free money.
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Post by ChrisK on Aug 1, 2009 23:47:28 GMT -5
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Post by ChrisK on Aug 1, 2009 20:35:36 GMT -5
Well, HP called me yesterday and asked if they could reinstall the OS. I said sure.
Hmmm, meybe they really are going to replace the motherboard.
I noticed that there was a lot of (red) SMT glue around the periphery of the Nvidea GPU (well, its a low, low end integrated GPU).
This tends to pollute the solder paste and cause BGA reliability issues (uh, like the ones described on the HP web site). I know, I've seen this vendor fault in action as we produce many $billions of electronic stuff yearly.
I didn't mention this to HP as it likely would seriously confuse them.
Let's just break one thing at a time.
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Post by ChrisK on Aug 1, 2009 20:29:36 GMT -5
Yeah, she 'prolly means you......
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Post by ChrisK on Aug 1, 2009 20:16:39 GMT -5
Ensure that you read this post. The Blocking Capacitor. While these signal return jumpers are in parallel with the shield (which is a shield AND NOT a reliable signal return path) they are not functioning ground loops until one gets into the RF (radio) part of the spectrum. I don't think that these are ever a problem. Folks recommend removing them because they don't understand the rational behind them, and have heard that "ground loops are bad", as they generally ARE NOT electrical engineers. The effective grounding in a modern Stratocaster. makes use of all three pot back shells being jumpered together. This costs money to do and Fender makes a lot of Stratocasters, but they feel that this is an important step. It is. There is a huge ground loop in electric guitars; it's called the cable shield to the amp and the operator to the floor. Just because a concrete slab is poured on the ground, it is not necessarily a low impedance path to the copper stake safety ground at the power panel input to the building. USE WIRELESS! |
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Post by ChrisK on Aug 1, 2009 9:45:33 GMT -5
Well, at least now not thru your body.   Someone's always the fuse................. |
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 31, 2009 18:37:49 GMT -5
And the CCFL backlight driven by a Royer oscillator in your laptop. It only generates aboot 10 Khz at aboot 1,200 VAC. |
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 31, 2009 18:28:08 GMT -5
The lower tone control places its cap in parallel with the upper tone cap when the lower pot is at "10". I don't think so. The pickup signal returns are connected to the grey node which is connected to the back of the volume pot which is connected to bridge ground, which is under the upper tone pot connecting it to the shell and threaded shaft of this tone pot, which is connected to the back of the lower tone pot. The tone caps are connected to the pot backshells. They should go to the signal return, which is jumpered to the pot backshells. The only thing that that isolation blocking cap is doing is loitering aboot, and not very well either. There is no AC isolation, DC blocking, nor safety enhancement as it is shown. Regarding the hum, do these pickups including a RWRP middle, or are they all the same phasing and magnetic polarity? |
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 30, 2009 22:48:26 GMT -5
Good, it's a series RC circuit that does not pass DC. This means that the cap is not crap. Yep, it's out of the DC loop (that infinitely slim slice of the complex plane that resistance occupies) since it's capacitively coupled. Unless you have an LCR meter, you'll just have to give in and actually listen to it. ;D ;D |
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 30, 2009 22:40:58 GMT -5
OK, I'm confused.
You have the neck tone control's Wiper terminal connected directly to the neck pickup, that when turned up to "10" directly connects the neck pickup to the volume pot via the CW terminal .
This is the "Free Neck On Thingy".
You have the B/B+M/M/M+N tone control's CCW terminal connected to the volume pot.
Its Wiper terminal is connected to a cap to ground. Its CW terminal is connected to a different cap to ground.
There appears to be a square'ish big green thing that is shorted and connected to the pickup return wires and ground on one lead, as well as the ground on the other lead.
This space-time-brane B/B+M/M/M+N tone control instantiation is relativistically confusing.
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 30, 2009 22:27:44 GMT -5
I play "in the dark" as well, but the connotations of this statement are...  Now, in your case, does "I play in the dark" mean without light or without power? ;D ;D |
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Jul 29, 2009 21:24:36 GMT -5
Post by ChrisK on Jul 29, 2009 21:24:36 GMT -5
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 28, 2009 23:42:14 GMT -5
I don't think that any amount of sympathetic string resonance is going to help my playing one iota. |
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 26, 2009 21:22:12 GMT -5
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 26, 2009 21:13:40 GMT -5
Quick, buy a reel of 5,000 and send them to Fender.
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 25, 2009 20:59:15 GMT -5
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 25, 2009 20:54:09 GMT -5
Well, that's why I love the exotic woods. No finish required. No "choked breathing" applied against the wood. Fender advertises that their nitro finish allows their bodies (and hence yer wallet) to "breathe". Yeah, once it gurgles thru the poly undercoating.
There are some custom shop guitars made for a specific dealer that have only the nitro outer coats applied. Hmm, I wonder if the secret's getting out.
(However, if your guitar body IS breathing (or you just think that it is), I hate to ask where both you and it have been.)
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 25, 2009 12:22:24 GMT -5
As newey indicates, the tuner posts may have a sharp edge around the string hole. This may be cleaned up with an over-size drill bit used as a counter-sink, but I'd go with the suggestion of better tuners. Don't go too far in rounding the hole edge as the tuner may not hold the string at all.
Some folk use a string turn overlap (a simple "friction knot") to help bind the string to the tuner.
I'm lazy and easily annoyed, so I just use locking tuners (which also helps with the constant string/bridge removal practiced by those with Compulsive reWiring Dementia). ;D ;D
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 24, 2009 19:07:21 GMT -5
Try measuring the reverb pan coil resistance using the amp end of each RCA cable (do unplug both first). They should be a few hundred to thousand Ohms (I'm guessing). If open or shorted, there you are. It's easier than swapping stuff. |
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 24, 2009 18:50:45 GMT -5
Well, BestBuy didn't have a 120 GB hard drive, so I guess that I'll just have to be content with the free 500 GB primary drive warranty replacement. At least I still have the 120 GB secondary drive..... ;D ;D www.allpowerful.com indeed. |
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 23, 2009 22:25:29 GMT -5
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 23, 2009 22:21:25 GMT -5
So, BestBuy called and sez that my laptop is repaired. (Of course, their automated customer annoyance system has called me almost daily, starting with the evening of the day that I'd dropped it off, indicating that the machine was already finished and that I had 5 days to pick it up (they didn't say what would happen if I didn't). They put in a new primary hard drive, and said that the secondary was corrupted. Hmm, we'll see what we got (which hopefully includes MY $30 recovery disk) The HP return box came Wednesday. I'll take some pics of the HP as I recall some red goop coming out under the Nvidea graphic processor (it's a 6150 (class 5) so its most pedestrian and of the integrated graphics performance level.) This red stuff is usually SMT placement goo, but there's a lot of it. I've seen this stuff cause solder paste contamination. This is a BGA component (Ball Grid Array) that requires an X-ray machine for ball solder joint inspection. BTW, if one actually cares aboot mobile GPUs, www.notebookcheck.net/Comparison-of-Graphic-Cards.130.0.htmlwww.notebookcheck.net/Mobile-Graphics-Cards-Benchmark-List.844.0.htmlwww.notebookcheck.net/Computer-Games-on-Laptop-Graphic-Cards.13849.0.html |
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 23, 2009 22:04:49 GMT -5
My recommendation comes from;
120 VAC = 170 VDC peak
High line 130 VAC = 184 VDC peak
200 VDC peak = 141 VAC
However, this doesn't leave any (much) room for transients. MOV-based transient protection power-strips are fairly slow to respond (they utilize a material phase change for clamping). Transorbs (FAST, HARDY zener mechanism diodes) are much faster (nanoseconds). Regular zener diodes are neither fast nor hardy.
Ergo, I recommend 400 VDC for domestic (U.S.) use. Except for the tube amp plate voltage somehow traveling down the cable. Even if it's thru the signal conductor and not the shield, it's only a few thousand Ohms in the way (and guitar cables ARE NOT RATED nor Hi-Pot tested for 400 VDC).
So it's 600 VDC.
For those a'planet where the local illuminating company have negligently chosen up to 250 VAC for operator electro-luminescence, the numbers change to:
250 VAC = 354 VDC peak
High line 270 VAC = 383 VDC peak
Again, this doesn't leave any (much) room for transients.
400 VDC peak = 283 VAC
600 VDC peak = 424 VAC
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 23, 2009 21:48:34 GMT -5
Hmmm, opportunity strikes.
What are the conditions and time-span of said offer?
One could always have continuing problems..........................
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 23, 2009 19:01:03 GMT -5
Yeah, but market it as the "Sustaining Vibrator". Mount it on the back surface of the guitar.
You might not sell many to musicians, (or at least to the easily distracted).
You might also have to actually kill the guitarist to end the solo...............
But seriously folks, If you could modulate the Tremo'Leo (IT'S A VIBRATO), one would get actual non-harmonic frequency inter-modulation effects.
FM, Frequency Modulation, Vibrato effected to the string FREQUENCY TUNING on the guitar. Erroneously called tremolo by Fender in guitars and propagated by the think-less ever since.
AM, Amplitude Modulation, Tremolo effected to the signal AMPLITUDE LEVEL in the amp. Erroneously called vibrato by Fender in some amps and propagated by the think-less ever since.
"What's the difference, it sounds the same", uttered by the toneless ever since.
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Post by ChrisK on Jul 23, 2009 18:42:06 GMT -5
It's not an isolation capacitor (well only in a DC steady-state no transient occurring way), but a blocking capacitor. It's role is to introduce enough reactance (AC frequency-dependent resistance if you must) to limit the possible AC current from mains wiring defects from killing the operator, but to provide a low enough reactance to provide shielding coupling for noise issues. If you reduce the value, you will reduce the AC fault coupling and reduce the shielding effect. Atchley already had reduced the value from 1.0 uF to 0.33 uF to reduce operator electro-luminescence. This might shed some light. The "Blocking" CapacitorThe metal shells on pickups are part of the "Operator Touchable Circuit" since they are, uh................ |
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