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PINE!
Nov 28, 2008 1:10:03 GMT -5
Post by ChrisK on Nov 28, 2008 1:10:03 GMT -5
Keep in mind that my analysis indicated that Guitar Mill would sell 200 one piece pine body blanks for $25K
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 27, 2008 19:00:32 GMT -5
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 27, 2008 18:53:43 GMT -5
Well, actually, current Gib$ons come with single conductor plus shield leads on the pickups UNLESS you buy an aftermarket version of said pickup. Then it comes as four-wire plus shield.
This is due to current Gib$ons being sooooooooooooooooooooooo valuable that no one would ever even think of thinking of modifying one.
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PINE!
Nov 27, 2008 0:14:36 GMT -5
Post by ChrisK on Nov 27, 2008 0:14:36 GMT -5
Fortunately, it's a lot cheaper to ship an email from eastern Canada. Ask them. They sell a 19.50" x 13.75" x 1.765" two piece pine body blank for $75. A one piece one would be $125. All they have to do is join the two piece ones and plane both of them. Do the math. You're looking at 7 to 10 blanks per plank times 20+ planks. That'd be 140 to 200 blanks at $125 street. That's only $17,500 to $25,000 street. Now assuming that shipping is horrendous and they want to make a bunch of money, you still might be looking at $4,000 to $7,000. After all, your wood has aged for 20+ years. Of course, if this seems to be too much trouble, I'll see if I can come up and take them off of your hands (you probably need the storage space anyway). I have a 3/4 ton pickup truck and can take care of everything for you, and my return trip will be downhill anyway.  guitarmill.com/index.htmlwww.woodfinder.com/www.gilmerwood.com/index.htmlwww.galleryhardwoods.com/specials.htmTalk's cheap. So are emails. |
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 26, 2008 23:42:18 GMT -5
It would appear that a 3PDT switch is needed.
1. One pole will disconnect the white/red tap from the bridge volume push pull switch,
2. One pole will disconnect the bridge tone push pull switch connection going to the neck tone push pull switch (there is only one), and
3. One pole will disconnect the output jack tip connection from the three-way switch and connect it to the wire on the bridge tone push pull switch in "2" above.
A 3PDT switch is not normally found in guitar parts channels. I do have a source for this (digikey.com). Ask if you need help in selecting one.
The bridge tone push pull switch will still reverse the phase of the bridge pickup, but this shouldn't matter. If you don't want this to happen (controlled feedback reasons, perhaps), you will need a slightly different scheme. Let me know as digikey also has 4PDT toggles.
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PINE!
Nov 26, 2008 23:29:41 GMT -5
Post by ChrisK on Nov 26, 2008 23:29:41 GMT -5
The original Fender guitar (Esquire) prototype was pine. There are folk that consider pine to be a prized wood for Tele bodies. I've seen Custom Shop models that are pine. I don't know if it is strong enough for a routed Strat body with a vibrato cavity, but it should be fine for a Tele. Guitar Mill offers pine as a wood option, ask them about the tonal characteristics. They may also be interested in some of your pine. guitarmill.com/index.html |
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 26, 2008 18:36:56 GMT -5
Sure they do. They're the weekly "banking holidays", and "let's get some Guy to go try to blow up the government building but fail" day.
BTW, my daughter sez that regular gasoline in Virginia was $1.649 yesterday. That's a pound per U.S. gallon.
Also, a cross-state gasoline pipeline blew near PGH yesterday, putting many gallons into the air and ecosystem. That was the bad news. The good news is that the cost was minimal.
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 26, 2008 18:32:19 GMT -5
In Texas it's called the "judge, he done deserved killin'" law.
Did you ever notice that someone going 10 mph faster than you is an idiot, but someone going 10 mph slower than you is a moron?
Don't talk (and NEVER text) on cell phones while you drive. Before we could do so, we never needed to.....
It's just plain criminal negligence (and natural selection in operation).
Don't eat and drive. There's plenty of time stopped at the stop lights to reload yer jaws.
F = MA, which is why I won't ride a motorcycle (bigger mass always wins.....). If the kinetic energy doesn't get you, the momentum will......
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 26, 2008 18:15:13 GMT -5
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 26, 2008 18:05:37 GMT -5
The Tele bridge pickup signal return wire is usually common with the bridge plate, and is (eventually) connected to jack ground.
The Tele neck pickup cover is also connected to its signal return wire, and is (eventually) connected to jack ground.
This is the method begun before pickups were selected in tandem, and amps had such lousy high frequency response that few cared about (or heard) the noise.
While Leo was many thing, he was above all a businessman, and hence, cheap. A Tele is the epitome of cheap construction and wiring.
I usually run a separate bridge plate ground just because I can.
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 26, 2008 17:53:51 GMT -5
The X1K scale should be fine. You will read about 6 to 8 on it.
1. Are you sure that you're on the X1K Ohms range?
2. Are you sure that the test leads are in the correct jacks?
3. Are you sure that the meter battery is good?
4. Are you sure that the meter battery is?
Connect the test lead ends together on the X1K range. The needle should move to "0".
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 26, 2008 17:36:30 GMT -5
You should measure the resistance change from the "10" terminal to the wiper when it's turned slightly down. I know that this is counter-intuitive, but the sum of the resistance from one end lug to the wiper plus the resistance from the wiper to the other end lug does not always equal the resistance from end lug to end lug, especially near the ends of rotational travel. I suspect that you will find some resistance from the "10" terminal to the wiper when it's turned slightly down. You could use that value as a series fixed resistor from the 5-way switch to the "10" lug on the volume pot. However, on the other hand, you indicated that you are restoring the guitar to its former state for sale, so what do you care about the sound.  ;D Your ears may have matured beyond the world of things Squier. If you're worried about it being too bright, just demo it with a crappy cord. |
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 25, 2008 17:07:10 GMT -5
The CAD files were emailed to you. A shunted (shorted) coil, which is a coil terminated in the lowest possible impedance (its internal impedance) will draw the most energy from a vibrating string. Since nothing is free, the energy comes from somewhere, and in this case, it's from the string. It will reduce the sustain of the note. A hanging coil, or one that is connected to a signal output point by only one of its two leads, will, in theory, couple signal (good or bad) into said signal output point thru capacitive and inductive coupling which completes the circuit. Several tests have been conducted to analyze the effect of both, to incomplete results. The only valid way to test for the effect of these wiring practices is to have an A/B switch that adds/removes EACH effect individually. A recording device must be triggered and a note plucked. The A/B switch should rapidly be toggled (perhaps 1 sec on/2 sec off) and the difference listened to. Any method that does not use the same signal event will be inconclusive, since the signal events are generated by humans. Those that prefer a very clean sound will notice the effect of a shorted coil (I test all guitars thru the same PA system), which has effect on the harmonics of the vibrating string, while those that use a fair amount of distortion may notice the effect of coupled noise due to the non-linear active circuit response, as well as not hearing the difference in sustain since clipping of any sort tends to limit the signal amplitude and hence, creates artificial sustain. In position #4, since the neck coil is hanging, it is shorted to eliminate the effects of a hanging coil while incurring the effects of a shorted coil. |
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 24, 2008 23:22:42 GMT -5
Electrons do NOT follow the path of least resistance. It's not an election.
Current flows in ALL possible directions at once. If there is a 500K load and a 250K load in parallel, then the current thru the 500K load will be the applied voltage/500K, and the current thru the 250K load will be the applied voltage/250K.
The parallel combination of 250K and 500K is 167K. The sum of the currents flowing thru the 250K and 500K loads will be the same as if a single load of 167K were applied.
Active pickups are neither single coils nor humbuckers in the passive sense of pickups. They have an active electronics output stage that generally isolates the coils from any influence of the external components (including the loading of an external volume or tone pot) and one should use what's recommended by the manufacturer.
You mention capacitor values of 0.47, 0.33, 0.22 etc. Don't you mean 0.047, 0.033, 0.022 etc?
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 24, 2008 23:08:17 GMT -5
The Chopper is a 4-wire two coil humbucker. Since there are separate wires for each coil, coil tapping is not used, but rather coil selection.
The StewMac pickup is also a two coil humbucker with the coils permanently wired in series. While a parallel combination of these two coils is not possible, either coil or both can be selected by either shorting out a coil or selecting whether one or both coils are selected.
On the StewMac, the bare wire is connected to ground. This sets the coil orientation for the rest of the switching scheme.
For position 4., select the red wire for the full humbucker.
The south screw coil is the first one that can be selected by connecting the white wire from the pickup to the selector switch. If this is the coil that you wan to be combined with the bridge single coil in position 3., have the selector switch select the white wire. If you want the north slug coil to be selected, you will have to select the red wire and short the white wire to ground. This takes two poles.
You should choose the bridge coil that has the opposite magnetic polarity from the chosen neck coil for position 3 (humbucking). Once you choose the neck coil, the appropriate bridge coil magnet will attract to it. This will be the bridge coil also selected in position 3.
Note: Since you only have two pole switches, you will likely be limited to using the south screw coil on the neck pickup.
You will wire the bridge pickup into the same series structure as the neck. Two of the wires will comprise an inter-coil tap like the white wire on the neck pickup. One coil will be grounded, it should be the opposite magnetic polarity as the south screw coil on the neck pickup. It will attract to it.
Position 2 will select the inter-coil tap point on the Chopper.
Position 1 will select the full Chopper with both coils in series.
I'm not familiar with DiMarzio narrow blade single coil humbucker wiring. Also, the phasing between it and the StewMac may be opposite. Since the grounded coil connection on the StewMac sets the wiring order, the Chopper coil leads may have to be reversed.
In summary, both switch pole commons go to the volume pot.
Pole 1
Pos 4. neck red
Pos. 3. neck white
Pos. 2. not used
Pos. 1. not used
Pole 2
Pos 4. not used
Pos. 3. bridge inter-coil tap
Pos. 2. bridge inter-coil tap
Pos. 1. bridge full humbucker
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 24, 2008 22:25:49 GMT -5
Yes, but it's up to you to get the right sets of wires for the coils. The top right drawing. "A" is one pickup (Wh or Nh) associated with the switch left next to it and "B" is the other pickup (Nh or Wh) associated with the switch right next to it. The red switch arrows are for the series position and the blue switch arrows are for the parallel position. If both switches are in series, both pickups are in series, if either switch is in parallel, that pickup is on regardless of the other. If both are on, then they are in parallel. |
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 24, 2008 22:24:16 GMT -5
The switching may couple into the guitar signal as a pronounced "click", especially if both the tip and ring conductors are within the shield.
The coupling will depend on the interconductor capacitance, the loads, and the level of DC current switched.
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 24, 2008 22:21:19 GMT -5
Only trial and error, or, as you go, you begin to "see" things.
I think that you should add another table for the xP3T rotary switch. It would label each pole and the three positions.
Otherwise, there is some guessing as to what things really mean.
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 24, 2008 19:15:23 GMT -5
The format that the file is in is AutoCADLT2005 .dwg
Switching the two coils for the P-Rail pickups should only take two or three poles of the 4P5T, depending on how you do the unconnected coil (hanging, shunting, or neither). This leaves at least one pole free on each for disconnecting and/or arbitrating volume/tone structures.
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 21, 2008 22:54:58 GMT -5
That's good to know about the magnet orientation. We'll call the coils, in order coming from the bridge, Aa, Br, Ca, Dr. We ignore single coils in parallel for this design. We will connect the coils as follows; Aa in series with Dr (the wide bucker), we will call this Wh, Br, in series with Ca (the narrow bucker), we will call this Nh. We will use Binary Tree Switching, of the DPDT variety (the right column). This will give us the following with two PP pots; Pot 1 - Wh - down Pot 2 - Nh - down Wh in series with Nh Pot 1 - Wh - up Pot 2 - Nh - down Wh Pot 1 - Wh - down Pot 2 - Nh - up Nh Pot 1 - Wh - up Pot 2 - Nh - up Wh in parallel with Nh Add in a third PP pot for an override of the three-way for bridge combination in series with the neck as in "Take 1" section "E" in Fun With Toggles & Push-Pull Switches, And a possible fourth PP pot for phase reversal on the neck pickup (simple is). Then there won't be a welding job that you can't do. |
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 21, 2008 22:21:46 GMT -5
What exact type of 4P3T switch (rotary, ON-ON-ON, etc.)? BTW, a 5P5T switch only exists in lever form Europe (Schaller MegaSwitch "M")? This data refers to the stacked 8 pole version. www.eyb-guitars.de/Eyb-English/Megaswitch_files/English%20Megaswitch%20M.pdfI have queried them thereon. You refer to 10 combinations here, but show 15 in the worksheet. I don't see the correlation to the sheet of 15, the switches 1 thru 4, and the 10 combinations. So I don't quite "see" the attempt at using my method, which it to enumerate the combinations per bank of 5-way switch positions. I then position each bank above the others and look for similar structures with minor changes. In step 1 to step 2 in my post, I added some harmless connections for the middle pickup in anticipation of simplification for step 3, which shows the "left-normal" and "right-super" positional changes needed. Between these two choices for a particular terminal (initially only 10 in number - NOT 20 which would be the case if all non-pole terminals had multiple selections needed), a unique pole was needed for each. A quick look infers the following; It appears that you have three banks/groups for the 15 combinations. Looking at b-, I can see that it indeed does not require a separate pole on the lever switch, but only the bank switch if the grouping of the 15 combinations remains as you have shown. That being said, the initial tally indicates the following number of poles on the bank switch; Neck -, 5, easily reduced to 4 Middle +, 2 Middle -, 2 Bridge +, 3, combined with 1 from Mid -, 2 Bridge - ,1 TOTAL = 11 = 10P3T on bank switch, 4P5T on lever I will not look to further reduce this until you confirm the combinations and positions. BTW, I am building a guitar with DiMarzio's; a FRED in the bridge, an Area 61 in the middle, and an Area 58 in the neck. The wiring in this is the The HSS All Mode 'Caster. |
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 19, 2008 21:16:30 GMT -5
Well, it can be done, I'm just too lazy to do so. I will resend the documents for the triode/pentode switch. Oh, and   |
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 19, 2008 20:08:10 GMT -5
So does that paint stuff go on the inside or outside of the guitar?
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 19, 2008 20:06:26 GMT -5
No, newey is not saying that he didn't say that he's not saying that, he didn't say that.
Confused? You will be. ;D ;D
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 19, 2008 20:01:14 GMT -5
An old attache' case might be ideal. Especially if you mount the pedals on to the inside of the lid. This way, the front edge wall will be shallow and the case itself can be used for cables if appropriate velcro loops are "attache'd".
One could also keep some tools and string sets therein.
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 19, 2008 19:28:08 GMT -5
FYI   |
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 19, 2008 19:16:56 GMT -5
dunkelfalke, Where have you been? Willkommen zuruck (yeah, I know...).  Hmmm, triode mode is the only mode available in a 12AX7 since it is, uh, a triode. Did you mean the power tube which I assume in a pentode? Triode mode has a sooner, smoother occurrence of distortion/clipping that a pentode which has a quicker onset, later. It also usually occurs at, and results, in less output power. The power output tube type is an EL84 I have some schematics and/or articles for a triode/pentode switch and will look for them as they are on the laptop that I have with me. Give me a few minutes. Ok, I found them but they are no longer available online. Check your mailbox, I PM'd them to you. Hey, update your email address on guitarnuts2. |
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 19, 2008 19:03:17 GMT -5
1. Be aware that there are eyes old and new, as well as minds old and new that render help a'board. 2. Please use the the English language along with the principles of grammar taught from grade school up. 3. If you did not suffer through such an education since you were not schooled in an English speaking country, do the best that you can, as you always have. 4 what im saying in other words if the post text runs together without whitespace is devoid of capitalization and punctuation or is compressed into one huge parablob one just might not get the most timely or complete attention of folk that already know the answer to a query this is unfortunate but consider it the fee that some of us charge this is also true if the query is random or vague or illogical or that you assume that we can read minds we can but please refer to the paragraph 2 above since it also applies to ones proclivity for mind reading and the desire thereto If you post in such parablobic blather-scythe, I will presume (likely correctly) that you won't be capable of understanding the logical solutions tendered, and will focus my efforts on those willing to take the time to properly use language skills. If you are posting from your iPhone or crackberry, then you most assuredly won't be capable of understanding the logical solutions tendered, especially as they likely will include information in schematic and wiring diagram form. That's why we invented PCs with real displays and keyboards. You will find that most responses on this board are in a form suitable for long-term reference by as many folk that might want to. The first thing that they will have to decipher is the original post. The difficulty inherent therein will determine their willingness to continue. The folk not of English speaking education mentioned in #3 have an even more difficult time following parablobic bundles of word phrases like #4. After all, that is the point of this board. |
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 19, 2008 18:02:36 GMT -5
Do realize that this is to compensate for the string movement being less at the bridge pickup location; therefore the neck pickup will likely have a lower output once moved there.
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Post by ChrisK on Nov 19, 2008 17:53:15 GMT -5
Be prepared to switch the wiring from one humbucker to the other within the MB as your listening dictates. That being said, using push pull pots (you'll likely need the LP style long bushing ones for rear routed bodies) you can select between two things. since you have three things in the MB to select between (series/single/parallel) you will need two of them. You might also consider a third to override the LP-style toggle switch for whatever is selected by the other two for the MB, to be in series with the neck pickup (der GeTurbo switch). I'm sure that a further demented use could be found for a fourth. Now, before you get too uncomfortably numb, there is another possibility to consider. Each pickup in the MB is a narrow humbucker. These never sound quite like a normal side-by-side humbucker as the magnetic sensing aperture is smaller. You could select which two coils that you use among the four. My DiMarzio Multi-Bucker had its poles oriented NSSN or SNNS. I was told that something like NSNS messed up the sound of both pickups, but this pickup had two specific, different pickups within; a Chopper and a Fast Track 1. Anyway, using a small magnet, you could determine the pole orientation and select the coils for the two of interest. For instance, I was using NS SN and N SS N as to additional combinations since each coil was so dissimilar. Picking two coils that have the widest separation combined with humbucking capability would give a wider/normal aperture humbucker that might be more tonally attractive. In summary, one might want to pick the two switches to select; both SC narrow hums in internal series, in series with each other one SC narrow hum in internal series, one SC wide hum in internal series, both SC narrow hums in internal series, in parallel with each other, a third switch to select whatever is selected above in override series with the neck. I said "one might want to pick" since we won't know if any set of things are possible until they're A. chosen, and B. analyzed. I won't analyze all possibilities up front. We also need to know the magnet polarity progression. Use one pole (the same pole for all tests) of a pickup to test for the attraction to each rail of the MB. Post the progression such as attracts/repels/attracts/repels or attracts/repels/repels/attracts. we don't care about the actual magnet polarity. |
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